External Pump Priming

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FishLvR

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I searched around and could not find a clear answer. Closed loop UV. Using an Eflux Loop Return pump I already own. How do I set up the plumbing to make priming the pump easy? The way I have to go over the top of the eurobrace will make it so water will not freely run down into the pump. I just need an easy way to get water down into the pump.
 
For your initial prime run an air tube down the pipe and suck the air out...that should start it

However, if power fail, chances of losing your syphon are big once power turn back on.
You would need a aqualift / similar pump to take the air out, which would re-start the syphon or there is a continuous syphon DIY PVC thing I saw somewhere....let me find the video....
 
For your initial prime run an air tube down the pipe and suck the air out...that should start it

However, if power fail, chances of losing your syphon are big once power turn back on.
You would need a aqualift / similar pump to take the air out, which would re-start the syphon or there is a continuous syphon DIY PVC thing I saw somewhere....let me find the video....
I am good at sucking. Joey has a good idea but it's ugly innit? I might have to rethink few things.
 
yeah....limited tech when you have to go over the top.....i'm in same position...all my stuff is HOB or over the top.
Its easy once you get the syphon started, but that power loss is a danger.....
 
what are you using for filtration? I'm assuming you dont have a sump...hence over the top....
 
In theory, you could also add a check valve next to pump in......but I dont 100% trust those....and don't know what the effect on water flow is as I'm sure it would slow the intake somewhat.....
 
Feel free to call me crazy


It seems to me (I may be wrong) that if you replace the 90 (elbow) at the vertical drop to the pump, with a Tee, and fit a screw in endcap (pointed up) you could gain access for priming and cleaning

You could then just manually prime it with tank water for the vertical section up to a decent level of the horizontal, and fire the pump (after you've screwed the cap in)



Now I'll be the first to say it might not work. I'm not an expert on pumps, but it could work?
 
Feel free to call me crazy


It seems to me (I may be wrong) that if you replace the 90 (elbow) at the vertical drop to the pump, with a Tee, and fit a screw in endcap (pointed up) you could gain access for priming and cleaning

You could then just manually prime it with tank water for the vertical section up to a decent level of the horizontal, and fire the pump (after you've screwed the cap in)



Now I'll be the first to say it might not work. I'm not an expert on pumps, but it could work?
That does work. Canister companies (Rena Filstar) use the same style....I think the initial syphon isn't the issue I think...its power lose and possible loss of syphon upon power return.....almost impossible, but.....
 
1749082498542.png
 
Feel free to call me crazy


It seems to me (I may be wrong) that if you replace the 90 (elbow) at the vertical drop to the pump, with a Tee, and fit a screw in endcap (pointed up) you could gain access for priming and cleaning

You could then just manually prime it with tank water for the vertical section up to a decent level of the horizontal, and fire the pump (after you've screwed the cap in)



Now I'll be the first to say it might not work. I'm not an expert on pumps, but it could work?
That does work. Canister companies (Rena Filstar) use the same style....I think the initial syphon isn't the issue I think...its power lose and possible loss of syphon upon power return.....almost impossible, but.....
Yeah it's acceptable to use a Tee for gas venting too, which allows for a clean out and drain. So the theory is sound

In the event power is lost, you'd likely still have water in the stack, it may just need a top off when it's restored. It may also just generate enough suction to reprime itself based of the water in the stack if the open end has enough to grab and the air gap isn't too big. But again, I'm not a pump guy, and the variables matter
 
Yeah it's acceptable to use a Tee for gas venting too, which allows for a clean out and drain. So the theory is sound

In the event power is lost, you'd likely still have water in the stack, it may just need a top off when it's restored. It may also just generate enough suction to reprime itself based of the water in the stack if the open end has enough to grab and the air gap isn't too big. But again, I'm not a pump guy, and the variables matter
Dont get me wrong.....I agree and align with you 100% percent.....but there is always that variable.....
 
Yeah it's acceptable to use a Tee for gas venting too, which allows for a clean out and drain. So the theory is sound

In the event power is lost, you'd likely still have water in the stack, it may just need a top off when it's restored. It may also just generate enough suction to reprime itself based of the water in the stack if the open end has enough to grab and the air gap isn't too big. But again, I'm not a pump guy, and the variables matter
Dont get me wrong.....I agree and align with you 100% percent.....but there is always that variable.....
The math matters.

I'm an HVAC guy, not a plumber

So I have no idea how much air in the system a pump can take

But I do know that if you crank the fan speed...

https://media1.tenor.com/m/EUNejr7c7mkAAAAC/tim-taylor-tool.gif
 
what are you using for filtration? I'm assuming you dont have a sump...hence over the top....
I have a sump. My tank is eurobraced. To have the UV running in the display I have to go over the Euro. I can't drill the brace because it is tempered. I had a thought though. I could run two return pumps. One would be just for the UV and I could make a real clean looking PVC over the euro.

That T idea was something I was thinking about too. God I hate plumbing.

Fighting Dinos. That's the green killing machine and it is actually working.

20250604_185831.jpg
 

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