Lasse
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My Tank Thread
That said, I have yet to cycle a tank without getting any form of a nitrite spike, and I can only imagine a few situations where that would happen, mostly dealing with either massive bacterial input (reusing live rock from another tank, dumping a ton of bacterial starter in, etc) or not providing enough of an ammonia source from the get go (if I don't put in enough to cause more than a tiny amount of ammonia, there won't be enough digested to form any real nitrite). The former would constitute essentially skipping the cycle, while the latter would most likely be an uncycled situation.
My experiences with the method I outline in my article 15 steps..... saying that it just what happens - a cycling without any NH3/NH4 and/or NO2 spikes. the trick is to use the fish excretion of NH3/NH4 when feeding and slowly rise the amount of feed during a three weeks period together with adding nitrifying bacteria in one or another form.
In freshwater – if not using methods similar to mine – NO2 test is necessary and in salt water, I – like you – think that it is a useful tool in order to know when the cycle is done. However – using “slow and low adding of NH3/NH4 combined with adding nitrification bacteria” IMO do not need testing because it will not give any spikes – either in FW or SW.
Of many reasons’ hobby tests of total ammonia (NH3/NH4) is worthless (IMO) because it often gives false readings and have to be combined with a rather accurate pH testing in order to give the right answer. Use of these tests can worsen the problems because of overreactions IMO. However, the ammonia alert badge is built on other principles and only analyse the dangerous form of ammonia (NH3 or ammoniac as we say in Europe) and – if it works well – be a good tool. But the cycle is not completed with 0 readings of NH3 – it could have been stalled in the NO2 part and if using other methods than those that´s built on very small and slow adding of NH3/NH4 (as my 15 steps….) – use of NO2 test even in SW is of importance. IMO – it is also total unnecessary to test NO3 before you know that NO2 is zero (or very close to zero) All - for me – known NO3 test is built on a transfer of all NO3 into NO2 and after that analyse the NO2 and the colour chart or analyser convert it back to NO3. If you already have NO2 in the water – the result will be false – between 50 to 100 times higher than the real NO3 level depending on brand of the test
Sincerely Lasse