First Reef Tank Setup Plan!

RoboRabbit89

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Hey all! Its been about 15 years since both my FOWLR tank and me using a forum, haha. When I was a high school sophomore I got a job at a LFS and started saving for a FOWLR tank. I got it all set up and everything was a nightmare, turns out the LFS had poor health procedures and weren't exactly the most educated, and I will admit, being 15 I was pretty impatient and lazy. So this time around I have scowered YouTube and the internet. I've probably watched 100 hours of YouTube from Bulk Reef Supply TV, Mr Saltwater, Reef Builders, Reef Dudes, Tidal Gardens etc. Ive also read a book or two, but they are all pretty old, and read a ton of articles and a few of the starter posts on here. Anyways, I figured this was the next step, and would absolutely appreciate any feedback!

Here is my plan:
you will see that I am using neptune everything, Im super meticulous and a bit OCD so these are right up my ally

Phase 1: Initial set up and Cycle, QT, 4+ weeks
Red Sea Reefer XL 200 42g with 24x24 net lid and sump(3D print lids), Neptune Systems COR-15 Pump(+ backup), neptune apex EL, 30 lb caribsea life rock(I want more room for the fish to swim so I'm using less than the norm), 40 lb caribsea arag-alive sand, RODI filter, Brute buckets, tests, route all neptune gear and cables with cable bundle clips to closet(fish room) wall mounts and shelf for supplies, starter bacteria, QT- 10g starter kit, PVC pipes. Use QT light after the initial cycle for algae cycle.

Phase 2: First Fish captive, CUC, Skimmer, heater, filter cup, battery, 2 weeks each animal/group
Banded/Nassarius snails, blue/red hermits, emerald, peppermint shrimp, Bicolor blenny, ORA yellow watch goby, pistol shrimp, Reef Octopus Classic 150SSS 5" Skimmer, bulk reef titanium 300w heater(+ backup), filter cup pad and biopellets, icecap battery backup, drip acclimator

Phase 3: Third and forth Fish captive, Reactor, 2 weeks each animal
Melanurus/Male Red Tail Flasher Wrasse, for the wrasse I am basically looking for a parasite cleaner. I heard the Mel was a beast at this, but then my LFS told me that they were aggressive, contrary to everything I have read, he then suggested either a flasher or leopard(he claimed his leopards were easy somehow). I feel like even the Mel is pushing it in a 42 gallon DT and from what I have read the flashers and leopards like to have even more room to roam and dont even eat many parasites. The LFS actually said a whole lot of contradictory things and tried to get me to buy my tank from him with about $730 worth of freight charges and assembly tacked on. So I dont think I will be going back there, any suggestions on a good utility wrasse are welcome.
ORA Black Storm Clownfish, bulk reef supply GFO & carbon reactor w/ Neptune Systems UTILITY PUMP

Phase 4: Zoa Garden (large rising island placement) aquaculture, Powerheads, Light, coral dips, doser, analyzer, 2-4 weeks
coral dip, cheap tester zoa, Insane rainbow(Zoa), gobstopper(Zoa) , orange/blue Zoa, Neptune WAV Pump 2 Pack, Neptune doser & analyzer, neptune Sky light

Phase 5: Next round of corals aquaculture, 2-4 weeks
Fireworks clove(soft, low placment), Aquaman rhodactis(Soft, low island placement), Purple Green Candy Cane(LPS, medium high placement)

Phase 6: SPS Corals aquaculture, 2-4 weeks
neon green pavona(SPS, high placement), glowing fingers birds nest(SPS, high placment).
I chose to do the SPS before the final LPS because I have read these are fairly hardy for SPS and I really want to have my stuff together before dishing out the cash on the show corals to come.

Phase 7: Show LPS aquaculture, 4+ weeks
Hells Eye chalice(LPS, center medium high), Warpaint Scoly(LPS, sand front), Mango Tango Acan(LPS, sand shade)

Phase 8: Future Tank Upgrade to 90 gallon- Puffer, Butterfly, Tang, Long tip Anemone, clam, toadstool, plate monti, bonsai acro.
rollermat, Neptune ATO/AFS, algae barn refugium kit, tunze Refugium light, another doser for AWC, most of this gear I really wanted to put in the first build but after consideration decided I really didnt need all of it/it wouldnt fit. That being said I am still very much interested in trying to retro-fit a fuge in this sump somehow if anyone has any suggestions.

Here is what I plan for maintenance:

Daily:
Fish - food(Saki-Hikari Carn/Herbivore pellets, Hikari mysis shrimp), visual maintenance
Corals- food(Brightwell Aminos), Apex test calc, alk, mag, auto-dose, visual maintenance
Tank- Apex pH and temp monitoring, Seachem Ammonia monitor in return chamber, check ATO reservoir

Weekly:
Tank- test Nitrate, phosphate, 5(+) gallon water change with sand vac, check salinity, scrape algae, clean skimmer collection, replace cup pad, clean sump, any equipment maintenance recommended by apex monitor for pumps/lights/powerheads etc

Monthly:
Make RODI and Saltwater(Tropic Marin) 20g each, check reactor, check RODI filter, check trident and doser, Nitrite test

6 Months:
Clean Salt and RODI water jugs, 5 x 10% water change over a week, full skimmer clean

Target levels/Brands/Treatment:
Salinity- 35 ppt/ Hanna/add or dilute
Temp- 78*/ Neptune/increase or lower
pH- 8.0-8.4/ Neptune/ aim Powerheads up, increase flow, get plants
Alk- 9dKH/BRS/auto dose
Calc- 440ppm/BRS/auto dose
Mag- 1350ppm/BRS/manual dose
Ammonia- 0-.02ppm/seachem/25% change
Nitrate- .25-5ppm/hanna/25% change
Nitrite- 0-.02ppm/hanna/25% change
Phosphate- 0-.05ppm/hanna/25% change

Fish illnesses/Brand/treatment:
-Visible Parasites/Prazipro/remove treat in QT
-Ich/Hikari Ich-X, Prazipro/remove once visible, treat in QT, Prazipro first then Ich-X
-Brook and Velvet/Ruby Reef Rally Pro/remove all fish immediately at first sign, bath treatment

Coral illnesses/Brand/treatment:
Soft- red planaria, nudi's/ CoralRX/ remove pests, dip coral
Hard- red bugs, nudi's, flatworms/ CoralRX/ remove pests, dip coral

Pop up QT: I dont really have the space to keep it up and running at all times unfortunately so pop-up will have to do.
Fill half with water from DT, half with new saltwater, Use DT biopellets and clean sponge and run filter/heater until ready. 10% water changes every other day following medication instructions.
Fish: Drip acclimate, get them to eat, and Treat all new/sick fish for Ich, Brook, and Velvet.
Corals: Drip acclimate and dip all corals
CUC: Drip acclimate, Scrub as needed

My QT plan for new inhabitants is going to be just long enough to run the meds for fish, just the dips for corals, and a week of observation on the CUC. The reason I'm going shorter is because I am planning to only buy from reputable sources that have full quarantine practices and I dont want to overly stress anything out.

and that's it! Its a super long read I know, but again any feedback would be amazing. Im still a bit of a ways off to start the process, but will be updating with pictures each step of the way.
 

mdb_talon

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That is a heck of a plan. I am a bit jealous. Usually I fully formulate my plan about 10 minutes after I have executed my half-baked plan :)

My only comments would be daily tests for KH,calc,mg seem overkill. Maybe for short periods occasionally to monitor consumption and adjust dosing. Not that it will hurt anything to do more frequently though. Other comment is I would QT all coral even if buying from good sources. The risk may be less, but the risk is still there.
 
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RoboRabbit89

RoboRabbit89

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That is a heck of a plan. I am a bit jealous. Usually I fully formulate my plan about 10 minutes after I have executed my half-baked plan :)

My only comments would be daily tests for KH,calc,mg seem overkill. Maybe for short periods occasionally to monitor consumption and adjust dosing. Not that it will hurt anything to do more frequently though. Other comment is I would QT all coral even if buying from good sources. The risk may be less, but the risk is still there.
Thanks for the quick replies guys!

Oh, you should see my pantry, haha. Everything is planned and organized perfectly.

You think weekly for the trident tests? That was my original plan.

Ok, I think that shouldn't be a problem. My question is with the coral quarantine do I need a legit light or just the one that comes with the starter kit? 2 weeks good for observation? Should I do the same for the CUC?
 

mdb_talon

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I think weekly tests should be plenty. Only value i really see for daily is maybe for KH just to alert you of other issues. Even there you dont want to adjust dosing constantly based off daily fluctuations, but it could alert you to an issue(ie doser stopped, dumped massive dose in, etc). If it were me though after i was happy with how everything was working i wouldnt test more than weekly.

As far as QT i QT everything, but i am sure will get many here who disagree just giving my process. Fish for about 8 weeks. Inverts and coral usually for 2 to 3 weeks. In the case of coral i inspect well and dip before QT and inspect looking for eggs from things like nudis. A dip will kill many of the pests, but often not the eggs. Depending on the coral i often also remove from plug rubble it came in on. Obviously can do that if it encrusted onto the piece though.

For lights if you just talking a day or two then anything should be ok. A couple weeks i would want some decent light....even if it is just a $100 black box led or a cheap t5.
 
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RoboRabbit89

RoboRabbit89

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I think weekly tests should be plenty. Only value i really see for daily is maybe for KH just to alert you of other issues. Even there you dont want to adjust dosing constantly based off daily fluctuations, but it could alert you to an issue(ie doser stopped, dumped massive dose in, etc). If it were me though after i was happy with how everything was working i wouldnt test more than weekly.

As far as QT i QT everything, but i am sure will get many here who disagree just giving my process. Fish for about 8 weeks. Inverts and coral usually for 2 to 3 weeks. In the case of coral i inspect well and dip before QT and inspect looking for eggs from things like nudis. A dip will kill many of the pests, but often not the eggs. Depending on the coral i often also remove from plug rubble it came in on. Obviously can do that if it encrusted onto the piece though.

For lights if you just talking a day or two then anything should be ok. A couple weeks i would want some decent light....even if it is just a $100 black box led or a cheap t5.
Thanks man. Ok, yea once a week sounds good to me and the 2-3 weeks on corals and inverts is totally doable. Looking at a tunze strip for around $100 that goes up to 25000k.
 

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