Fish and Treatment Guidelines (with chart)

[tutmatt3]

Thank you very much! I'll report back as well when I finish all 30x days!

Full copper was reached on June 13th, and things were going well, but I don't know what did the Hog in.
He was typically hiding under a PCV pipe during the last few days, but today wasn't going good & he went.

Can't say if it was the Copper or something else. He did have a 'slime' coming off him a few hours before going - almost like coral slime when they are stressed.

Just thought to report in that my go @ the hog was incomplete.

 

[1wwoods7]

So me and my partner didn't know that copper could hurt our wrasse. So unfortunately we just found that out after a break out in my DT. So with wrasse how do you treat them if they have velvet or in qt before putting them in the dt tank?

 

[melypr1985]

So me and my partner didn't know that copper could hurt our wrasse. So unfortunately we just found that out after a break out in my DT. So with wrasse how do you treat them if they have velvet or in qt before putting them in the dt tank?

I actually use chelated copper (like coppersafe) on wrasses of many different types without problems. Ionic copper can be a bit more harsh on them, but if raised slowly to therapeutic levels, can still be done with success. For velvet, Copper is the way to go with wrasses but for prophylactic treatment with no signs of velvet, then TTM is the best call IME.

 

[Humblefish]

I actually use chelated copper (like coppersafe) on wrasses of many different types without problems. Ionic copper can be a bit more harsh on them, but if raised slowly to therapeutic levels, can still be done with success. For velvet, Copper is the way to go with wrasses but for prophylactic treatment with no signs of velvet, then TTM is the best call IME.

^^ Agree; wrasses are notoriously sensitive to almost all medications, but they tolerate chelated copper better than ionic.

 

[1wwoods7]

I actually use chelated copper (like coppersafe) on wrasses of many different types without problems. Ionic copper can be a bit more harsh on them, but if raised slowly to therapeutic levels, can still be done with success. For velvet, Copper is the way to go with wrasses but for prophylactic treatment with no signs of velvet, then TTM is the best call IME.

Can that cooper effective on all fish, cause our firefly gobies are acting weird now with us treating with cupramine at a 3.5 for about 3 days.

 

[melypr1985]

Can that cooper effective on all fish, cause our firefly gobies are acting weird now with us treating with cupramine at a 3.5 for about 3 days.

yes, you can use copper safe on most kinds of fish (excepting eels, sharks, rays, mandarins ect). Though, Cupramine should be just as effective as long as it is maintained at therapeutic levels. What are they doing exactly that makes you say they are acting funny?

 

[Robink]

I love this!!! Thank you!

 

[1wwoods7]

yes, you can use copper safe on most kinds of fish (excepting eels, sharks, rays, mandarins ect). Though, Cupramine should be just as effective as long as it is maintained at therapeutic levels. What are they doing exactly that makes you say they are acting funny?

They were constantly hiding and one of them wasn't eating but we woke up this morning to find them both dead.

 

[Fallling]

I have a juvenile marine betta coming soon. Any problems treating with Coppersafe? (I assume it's fine, but double checking never hurts).

 

[Humblefish]

I have a juvenile marine betta coming soon. Any problems treating with Coppersafe? (I assume it's fine, but double checking never hurts).

I've successfully treated those many times using both Coppersafe & Cupramine. Pretty hardy fish IME. Just wish they weren't so reclusive/nocturnal. But I guess you can't change nature.

 

[melypr1985]

They were constantly hiding and one of them wasn't eating but we woke up this morning to find them both dead.

I'm so sorry for your loss

 

[mfinn]

How firm is the " Don't do it" # 5 on Hippo tangs with CP?

A few weeks ago I put a Hippo tang in a quarantine tank and started Coppersafe. I took 3 days to get it up to what I thought would have been 2.0 ppm.
At the time it wasn't showing any outward signs of ick, but it came out of a tank where another fish ( wrasse) flashed on the gravel a couple times that I saw over a week.
My plan was to pass it on to a friend, so I wanted to guarantee it would be disease free.
So for 18 days of testing every other day the copper stayed at 2.0ppm that I could tell.
On day 19 my friend wanted to pay a visit and when we turned the lights on, there were very visible white dots on the back half of the tang.
Why now?

So I did a large water change with coppersafe added to the water.
Keep on going but I'm surprised I can see ick now.
And for what it's worth the tang is not scratching.
He's fat and happy as long as I put food in the tank.

Was wondering if anything would be different with CP?

 

[melypr1985]

How firm is the " Don't do it" # 5 on Hippo tangs with CP?

A few weeks ago I put a Hippo tang in a quarantine tank and started Coppersafe. I took 3 days to get it up to what I thought would have been 2.0 ppm.
At the time it wasn't showing any outward signs of ick, but it came out of a tank where another fish ( wrasse) flashed on the gravel a couple times that I saw over a week.
My plan was to pass it on to a friend, so I wanted to guarantee it would be disease free.
So for 18 days of testing every other day the copper stayed at 2.0ppm that I could tell.
On day 19 my friend wanted to pay a visit and when we turned the lights on, there were very visible white dots on the back half of the tang.
Why now?

So I did a large water change with coppersafe added to the water.
Keep on going but I'm surprised I can see ick now.
And for what it's worth the tang is not scratching.
He's fat and happy as long as I put food in the tank.

Was wondering if anything would be different with CP?

It's a very firm "don't do it" at this point. I may try it myself as I have a possible case of copper resistant velvet. Are you sure the spots you are seeing are ich? After two weeks you shouldn't see any signs of ich on the fish at all unless the copper levels dropped at some point below therapeutic levels.

 

[mfinn]

It's a very firm "don't do it" at this point. I may try it myself as I have a possible case of copper resistant velvet. Are you sure the spots you are seeing are ich? After two weeks you shouldn't see any signs of ich on the fish at all unless the copper levels dropped at some point below therapeutic levels.

I was pretty diligent with testing.
I know spots shouldn't be seen. That's what's got me baffled, and I think some major mis-trust from my friend.
I thought I saw a pattern to the spots, almost like a scrape.
When the tang dives for cover it likes to slide under the large sponge filter. He can actually force his way under it.
So I bumped the dose up by a couple mls when I did the water change and see what happens over the next week.

 

[Humblefish]

It's a very firm "don't do it" at this point. I may try it myself as I have a possible case of copper resistant velvet. Are you sure the spots you are seeing are ich? After two weeks you shouldn't see any signs of ich on the fish at all unless the copper levels dropped at some point below therapeutic levels.

+1 I don't know of anyone yet who has successfully run a Hippo Tang thru CP.

 

[melypr1985]

I was pretty diligent with testing.
I know spots shouldn't be seen. That's what's got me baffled, and I think some major mis-trust from my friend.
I thought I saw a pattern to the spots, almost like a scrape.
When the tang dives for cover it likes to slide under the large sponge filter. He can actually force his way under it.
So I bumped the dose up by a couple mls when I did the water change and see what happens over the next week.

Can you get a good picture of it?

 

[mfinn]

Can you get a good picture of it?

I've tried. The tang is really active ( thinks food is coming and swims back forth excited)or hiding ( thinks it's cleaning time)when I get up close.
I'll keep trying. It's not really visible, only at certain angles.

 

[codyvlc.vm]

Yes. White stringy poo is indicative of intestinal parasites. Treatment is best fed to the fish so that the med gets directly to the problem (the gut). Metroplex and Focus soaked into the food will take care of it for you. 1:1 ratio of both in one cube of frozen food. Let soak for 20 minutes before feeding. Feed this, once a day, for a minimum of 10 days. Note that it make take longer than ten days since these little buggers can be hard headed.

I've had one chromis for probably 6 months and recently added a scooter blenny. Pretty sure the blenny has intestinal parasites, but she's still eating. My chromis has white stringy poop and is not eating. To make a bad situation worse, everything ( soft coral, crabs, snails, starfish, shrimp and those 2 fish) was moved to a new 120 that was already stocked with 6 smaller chromis. Of those 6, 2 didn't make it past 2 days, 3 are just fine and the last one has been staying in the sand bed, barely eating. How do I fix this?

 

[melypr1985]

I've had one chromis for probably 6 months and recently added a scooter blenny. Pretty sure the blenny has intestinal parasites, but she's still eating. My chromis has white stringy poop and is not eating. To make a bad situation worse, everything ( soft coral, crabs, snails, starfish, shrimp and those 2 fish) was moved to a new 120 that was already stocked with 6 smaller chromis. Of those 6, 2 didn't make it past 2 days, 3 are just fine and the last one has been staying in the sand bed, barely eating. How do I fix this?

Well this is probably a result of several things. There are a lot of questions that would need to be answered here to ferret out the reason this is happening, which would then give us the way to fix it. I'll see if I can get you started here....

1. Was the new 120 an existing tank that was well established?
2. If this new tank was actually newly set up, or recently moved, then it's possible there was a mini cycle which means an ammonia spike.
3. if the fish are not eating, then the best bet to treat for intestinal worms is to remove them to a QT and dose the water with metroplex.
4. Moving the fish that are ill to a new tank adds stress to the sick fish and also exposes the fish in the new tank to the parasites that are affecting the old ones.

 

[codyvlc.vm]

Well this is probably a result of several things. There are a lot of questions that would need to be answered here to ferret out the reason this is happening, which would then give us the way to fix it. I'll see if I can get you started here....

1. Was the new 120 an existing tank that was well established?
2. If this new tank was actually newly set up, or recently moved, then it's possible there was a mini cycle which means an ammonia spike.
3. if the fish are not eating, then the best bet to treat for intestinal worms is to remove them to a QT and dose the water with metroplex.
4. Moving the fish that are ill to a new tank adds stress to the sick fish and also exposes the fish in the new tank to the parasites that are affecting the old ones.

The tank had been up a month before the new chromis were added. I've got a Seneye and it never registered ammonia above 0.001 ppm.

Considering that I've exposed all my fish, can I treat the whole tank?

Thanks for your help!