Fish building/man cave build!

Eagle_Steve

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Moving right along...

I am starting on the 187 stand today and working more on insulation and ceiling scraping after that.

I changed the plan on the stand (big surprise, huh?) I was given a C channel steel beam that is long enough to make the entire top frame out of it and that way I won't have to have center support legs. It'll leave a bunch of room to make the refugium bigger than originally planned. I am going with a 75 gallon tank I think. And leave the front open so it will be a display fuge.

Do you think the 187 setup deserves a different build thread? Or will that just make it hard to follow everything?
I say keep it all here. I have moved all of my tanks into the "Divorce Build" lol. Much easier and I actually update things with it in one place.
 
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dantimdad

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ok gang, I need input on flow.

Obviously, the 625xxl and the 187 aren't an issue. Both will be fish only. The 12 footer used to be a planted tank so flow wasn't a big deal either. But, with it now going to be a mixed reef AND being 12 foot long, I don't know what to do.

I know there are ways to make flow reach both ends but, it would take a ton of flow to do it. Too much in my opinion and way too expensive. (Think panta rhei)

Don't want a gyre. Had them in different brands and way too much maintenance and noise in all of them I tried.

I love the 6045 Tunze and was thinking one at either end pointing long ways and two in the middle back pointing forward at an angle. But, I doubt that would work either.

I also thought about a closed loop but don't want pipes showing or to make swiss cheese out of the tank.

Decisions, decisions...

Any thoughts?
 

najer

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ok gang, I need input on flow.

Obviously, the 625xxl and the 187 aren't an issue. Both will be fish only. The 12 footer used to be a planted tank so flow wasn't a big deal either. But, with it now going to be a mixed reef AND being 12 foot long, I don't know what to do.

I know there are ways to make flow reach both ends but, it would take a ton of flow to do it. Too much in my opinion and way too expensive. (Think panta rhei)

Don't want a gyre. Had them in different brands and way too much maintenance and noise in all of them I tried.

I love the 6045 Tunze and was thinking one at either end pointing long ways and two in the middle back pointing forward at an angle. But, I doubt that would work either.

I also thought about a closed loop but don't want pipes showing or to make swiss cheese out of the tank.

Decisions, decisions...

Any thoughts?

What is the return flow from the sump and will it be aimed?
 

najer

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right now the plan is 5 times turnover. It's split via a Y of loc line in the center back about 1" below the water line.

I only run pulse 2s, I would go a reef octo 4 on both ends running random mode smashing into the return flow, whatever you choose, the locline will really help fine tune the flow.
 

fishguy242

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Also have similar 12'er
WP_20200222_15_29_06_Pro.jpg

running DCP 20000 wide open ,two dual locline ,both centered on each side.
not near enough flow , rt now running ph's .
plan is mag 18 with 2 returns ,one on each side of tank.
WP_20200801_15_33_34_Pro.jpg

when 1st set up.
 
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dantimdad

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Also have similar 12'er
WP_20200222_15_29_06_Pro.jpg

running DCP 20000 wide open ,two dual locline ,both centered on each side.
not near enough flow , rt now running ph's .
plan is mag 18 with 2 returns ,one on each side of tank.
WP_20200801_15_33_34_Pro.jpg

when 1st set up.
Very cool!
 
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dantimdad

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I only run pulse 2s, I would go a reef octo 4 on both ends running random mode smashing into the return flow, whatever you choose, the locline will really help fine tune the flow.
I’ll look into them
 
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dantimdad

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I am not familiar but googling now.


They come highly recommended. I usually use pentair but they have just become ridiculous. I tried a jebao, work great for freshwater but the plastic starts breaking down in salt water. (There is a thread on it).

I will repurpose my jebao for my discus tank.
 
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dantimdad

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The wiring is 90% done.

I had to change a couple outlet locations and I still have to put the wire for the minisplit through the wall, but, can't do that until the mount gets here so I know exactly where I am putting it. That and I have to drill a 4" hole in the ceiling for the light box. The wire is already there and tied into the switch and breaker box.

I also decided to run a separate ground rod for the sub box. It's cheap insurance and took all of 30 minutes to do and only cost $36 including the 6 gauge ground wire. (The local electric supply house has started cutting me deals just to see what insanity I am going to do next!) LOL!

On track to finish the insulation and probably most of the paneling this weekend. Just depends on if the boss makes me rest a bunch or not. :cool:
 
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dantimdad

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As a side project to the room I am going to setup an apex and dos for auto water changes. I ordered 1/8” to 1/4” push lock adapters last night to be able use RO line for the distance it will take to setup.

Gonna get training on the setup from @Manose he’s been using one for years.

Hope this works!
 

Manose

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As a side project to the room I am going to setup an apex and dos for auto water changes. I ordered 1/8” to 1/4” push lock adapters last night to be able use RO line for the distance it will take to setup.

Gonna get training on the setup from @Manose he’s been using one for years.

Hope this works!
Setting it up is really easy and its the only reason I own a apex is getting the temp and the awc.
Mine is 80 feet from my tank with the RO lines underneath the house in the crawl space. I used a different color for each line so I would know the difference lol.
 

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