Fish building/man cave build!

[dantimdad]

An adult Erector Set, cool.

You should see my fish room/maker space the stuff is everywhere.

I have a small power miter box setup with a non ferrous blade just for it.

I have built stuff for other folks too.

 

[dantimdad]

Sherry and I are going to work on the interior of the truck tomorrow despite the heat that's coming.

I have a buddy coming sunday to help with the big tank and get it at least moved out of the way because everything for the stand and desk/workbench will be here.

And, if all goes well, I will get the water change/control cabinet done in the next week. I already have it layed out and the plywood cut to size. I just haven't assembled it yet and I haven't decided on the actual positioning of the controllers and RODI yet.

 

[dantimdad]

Her ya go @That Crusso Kid not finished yet but it’s coming along.

Also got the seat frame painted and the trim ring for the shifter boot painted. I’ll have it on in a bit. We are going to put the seat in tomorrow after the dash. Just makes sense to leave it out to give more room to work.

Not sure I will have the a pillars and kicks in this weekend. I am having a devil of a time finding clips that fit. I think the holes in the panels are wallowed out. I spent a fortune on oem fomoco ones and they still fall out. What a pain.

Tank wise, my buddy Dakota is getting the tank, stand, sump and lighting hopefully tomorrow.

I really really hate it but it’s necessary.

 

[dantimdad]

Tank is cleaned out as well as the sump.

It’ll be gone tomorrow for sure.

Next up is more interior work on the truck and cleaning the heck out of the room after the tank is out. It’s a freaking disaster.

 

[dantimdad]

Stand supplies showed up a day early. Wish the workbench parts would have.

I will have the tank on the stand by end of day tomorrow.

Maybe even have the sump sitting in the stand.

I printed some modified t-nuts for the 3030 to take the m3 taper head screws for the magnet catches. The test piece works great.

I am trying to figure out how I want to light the stand because the led tape I have been using doesn’t hold well. And printing clips that work with 3030 isn’t really optimal and looks sloppy.

 

[That Crusso Kid]

Thanks for pics, Steven. @dantimdad

Love hearing about all the progress.

 

[dantimdad]

The tank, stand, sump and lights went to live with a good friend of mine. Bittersweet.

My room looks almost empty except for the huge pile of stuff I had to move out of the way. Lol.

 

[dantimdad]

More progress to come today.

Tim is helping me with the dash and seat

Jason is helping me clean up and organize the room her shortly.

I already started cutting parts for the stand.

 

[dantimdad]

That’s right after the tank left

Here it is now.

I have to get th cabinet built to hide all the equipment in the corner.

 

[dantimdad]

Extrusion goes together so quickly. I love it.

The floor is so off level from being a carport. The left rear leg needs 15mm and the front left leg needs 10. Luckily I have a bunch of 5mm cast scraps that are the right size. I just use Weldon and glue them together. Should work out well and not compress or decay like wood does.

 

[dantimdad]

Well, there’s bad news and good news. In that order. The overflow interfered with the stand in two different places. The good news is it’s not a tempered tank and I am able to plug the holes and not have to reseal the whole tank.

 

[That Crusso Kid]

That’s right after the tank left

Here it is now.

I have to get th cabinet built to hide all the equipment in the corner.

Looks good in that spot. One thing, though, is if there is any worry of that crack in the concrete spreading more?

 

[dantimdad]

Looks good in that spot. One thing, though, is if there is any worry of that crack in the concrete spreading more?

Good catch!

Fortunately, no. It goes about another 6 feet and then there is a relief hole drilled to stop it. I drilled that hole years ago when it was still a carport. It goes under the wall the other direction and stops because there is a seam about 1cm on the other side of the wall. The hairline crack goes all the way to the other edge and hasn't gotten any wider. I think (bad idea) that the settling is done.

It would have cost several thousand dollars to cut out the concrete and repour. I had my son's pastor look at it (he does site prep contracting and concrete work) and he said that since we aren't parking a car on it anymore he's not worried. The crack doesn't go anywhere by the 12 foot tank so it's not a worry either.

I will say that, at the time, he had no idea the 12 foot tank was going there. lol Just the tank and stand weight 1100 pounds. With water, it's as much as a car.

When we expand the room and move the 12 foot tank backwards, It will be right up against a brick wall and on top of the footing ledge. I plan on just sealing the crack and then painting the floor. I will then replace the rug with a couple the same size to cover more area. After 4 years of that rug being down, it's starting to look rough.

In hindsight, I do wish I would have formed and poured self leveling concrete before framing. Lesson learned.

 

[dantimdad]

I forgot to mention: I was able to get the frag plug off the back glass. At the recommendation of my buddy that got the big tank, a disposable eye dropper with muriatic acid, rubber gloves, safety mask and eye protection. It actually started dissolving the plug and it finally fell off. I will finish scraping the residue off the glass.

Also, the workbench 2040 will be here tomorrow and hopefully, the rest of the parts for the screen frame.

The heater controller, sand and a couple other things showed up over the weekend.

I pretty much have everything to finish up once the last two shipments show.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

Extrusion goes together so quickly. I love it.

The floor is so off level from being a carport. The left rear leg needs 15mm and the front left leg needs 10. Luckily I have a bunch of 5mm cast scraps that are the right size. I just use Weldon and glue them together. Should work out well and not compress or decay like wood does.

I used something very similar to these to help level the stand for my frag system. They worked very well!

 

[dantimdad]

I used something very similar to these to help level the stand for my frag system. They worked very well!

Those unfortunately don't have a load rating except to say light duty.

Do you have a link to the ones you used that hold the weight?

 

[dantimdad]

Ready to glue in the patch.

I can't find my good glass cutter so the local guy is gonna cut a scrap piece for me tomorrow.

Meanwhile, I will get the tank out side and drilled.

 

[That Crusso Kid]

The heater controller, sand and a couple other things showed up over the weekend.

Heater controller? Ranco?

 

[dantimdad]

Heater controller? Ranco?

No I use ink bird as a backup to the one that comes with the H2Pro titanium heaters. I have never had the H2Pro ones fail, but you never know. I also have an audible alarm that sends a message to my phone just in case.

The number one actual failure I have had over the years is heaters and return pumps. If you put the alarm probe in the tank, not the sump, you will also know if they return pump fails because the temp will drop because the heaters are in the sump.

BTW, the tank is drilled and overflow mounted.

I am going back over the fasteners on the stand to make sure they are tight and adding two more cross bars.

The Tunze fuge light came in yesterday. Nicely made and really bright considering the wattage.

I may, eventually switch to the Tunze reactor someone so nicely gave me. If I do that, then the fuge section will become a frag setup.

 

[08TRDOFFROAD]

No I use ink bird as a backup to the one that comes with the H2Pro titanium heaters. I have never had the H2Pro ones fail, but you never know. I also have an audible alarm that sends a message to my phone just in case.

The number one actual failure I have had over the years is heaters and return pumps. If you put the alarm probe in the tank, not the sump, you will also know if they return pump fails because the temp will drop because the heaters are in the sump.

BTW, the tank is drilled and overflow mounted.

I am going back over the fasteners on the stand to make sure they are tight and adding two more cross bars.

The Tunze fuge light came in yesterday. Nicely made and really bright considering the wattage.

I may, eventually switch to the Tunze reactor someone so nicely gave me. If I do that, then the fuge section will become a frag setup.

The the tunze light the magnetic stick looking one?