Found dr reef yellow tang breathing on side

[litsoh]

Have you done a freshwater dip to try and confirm the presence of flukes?

 

[BeanAnimal]

I’m not telling they are wrong. It is very frustrating to have enough cycled rock to prevent a cycle, prevent nitrite/ammonia issues. I went beyond by even adding bacteria and I probably didn’t need to but I did. Everyone is harping on too many fish added at once when the evidence isn’t putting to that.

You are not listening to the reasoning. Nobody thinks you created an ammonia spike in the display. The fish have undergone tremendous stress and a crowded community tank with no established pecking order (chaos) is just adding to that.

I added prazi and it shook its head. Everything points toward flukes.

It very well may be, but as people were trying to help diagnose, you started talking over them. These guys are good, let them work a differential diagnoses by answering their questions, not telling them how to do their diagnosis.

 

[Kzang]

Have you done a freshwater dip to try and confirm the presence of flukes?

No, it was on death’s door. It still pretty much is and a FW dip would probably kill it.

It’s doing better, at least it can go into the flow ok it’s on accord

 

[Kzang]

You are not listening to the reasoning. Nobody thinks you created an ammonia spike in the display. The fish have undergone tremendous stress and a crowded community tank with no established pecking order (chaos) is just adding to that.


It very well may be, but as people were trying to help diagnose, you started talking over them. These guys are good, let them work a differential diagnoses by answering their questions, not telling them how to do their diagnosis.

I did. I gave my best of what’s going on. That one guy didn’t read everything, and claimed something and it wasn’t truthful.

There is zero aggression issues. No chasing, no damage. It’s why I wanted to put everything in at once. The clowns, dwarf possum wrasse, flaming prawn goby, and tailspot are very peaceful.

The only slight “issue” was pecking order of the anthias. The flashing one was the biggest while the others are smaller. They already figured out the hierarchy with the one that will turn male, and sub female hierarchy. No issues with them yesterday or today.

 

[Kzang]

Here is a better pic of the “pimple” side

 

[JayM]

Did you read this? I ask because it doesn't appear so. You're coming off as hostile to those that are trying to help, yet have offered suboptimal information as to what exactly is happening. The pics in your first post are all but worthless for a proper diagnosis, and unless I missed it - you haven't posted any video, nor any water parameters, which can offer many clues to what you're dealing with.

I had big tangs, 13 fish when my old 150g popped. I had them in a 40g breeder for a month. I put them all in the new 150g tank with just bottled bacteria, and prime with dry scape and dry sand. No issues. No losses. More than 2x the bioload right now. That’s on top of adding a crap ton of already cycled rock on top of the tank’s cycled rock. A 137g, 60x25x22.

What happened to the original 13 fish?

 

[slythy]

So those small tangs should be Quarantined before Dr reef even gets too it. I am pretty sure they are Biota fish. the way you acclimated very well could have burned the gills causing lots of these issues. Thats for all the fish. it takes a long time if ever to have the gills come back.

On shipped fish, I always take a needle poke the bag to get a salinity reading then tape it up and keep it floating so no oxygen exchange happens. Then mix up a batch of matching salinity and temp and just dump the fish in without any of the shipping water. Then you can drip acclimate for as long as you want. if you keep it in the shipping water you are going to damage the fish one way or another.

 

[litsoh]

For Dr. Reef's acclimation guide it directs you to have a fresh bucket of water at 1.021 ready. Once the fish are temp acclimated you release the fish into the 1.021 water and discard the transport water. My orders from them have come in at the 1.021-1.022 range so there's no drastic salinity change when you transfer them over. iirc they don't recommend drip acclimation either when you do it with the transfer water

 

[JayM]

For sure stay in touch with the dealer.....

Loss from flukes is very gradual, typically over weeks. Ich of course will show white spots. Velvet causes rapid breathing and then death in a majority of the fish. Acclimation issues start from day one and tend to get better over time (unless the fish die early on). I can't recall - what salinity does Dr. Reef ship at?

According to Dr. Reef's website, 1.021 - 1.023. Sometimes 1.018 for fragile fish.

I don’t know. I just acclimate with a hybrid of what he sugggests. I drip full flow with a heater, airstone, and wavemaker. Then I periodically add tank water like he wants you to do. It’s pretty low. I just go until I match my salinity.

Dr. Reef's specifically states not to drip acclimate for reasons previously mentioned in this thread.

"We do not recommend the drip method as it has the potential to hurt fish if not done properly and in quick time"

 

[Kzang]

Did you read this? I ask because it doesn't appear so. You're coming off as hostile to those that are trying to help, yet have offered suboptimal information as to what exactly is happening. The pics in your first post are all but worthless for a proper diagnosis, and unless I missed it - you haven't posted any video, nor any water parameters, which can offer many clues to what you're dealing with.


What happened to the original 13 fish?

They are in my old neighbors tank fat and happy. I QTed them myself. All are there except one melanurus wrasse, died of old age.

I tried my best to offer the best info at the time. I was actively trying to keep it from dying, and so far succeeded.

I did post stuff. It’s not easy when you’re trying to save a fishes life and everyone pointing at non disease viewpoints.

I’m not an expert, but somewhat seasoned reefer and not afraid to ask questions, even stupid ones.

The internet isn’t the best way to judge tone, but be danged that one guy saying **** that wasn’t true and not helpful, I’m not going to take it lying down when my fish is might die.

 

[Kzang]

According to Dr. Reef's website, 1.021 - 1.023. Sometimes 1.018 for fragile fish.

Dr. Reef's specifically states not to drip acclimate for reasons previously mentioned in this thread.

"We do not recommend the drip method as it has the potential to hurt fish if not done properly and in quick time"

Like I said, I do what Dr reef says to do, but I also drip a full stream as I’m doing it, with a heater, flow, and airstone going.

 

[Kzang]

So those small tangs should be Quarantined before Dr reef even gets too it. I am pretty sure they are Biota fish. the way you acclimated very well could have burned the gills causing lots of these issues. Thats for all the fish. it takes a long time if ever to have the gills come back.

On shipped fish, I always take a needle poke the bag to get a salinity reading then tape it up and keep it floating so no oxygen exchange happens. Then mix up a batch of matching salinity and temp and just dump the fish in without any of the shipping water. Then you can drip acclimate for as long as you want. if you keep it in the shipping water you are going to damage the fish one way or another.

The fish were fine and swimming fine the first 3 days. No issues with acclimation, including the yellow tang. Absolutely no warning signs the first 3 days until I found the dead melanurus wrasse. Still haven’t seen the leopard.

All eating except the yellow that i noticed. I only saw them Friday-Sunday at night after work before lights totally went out.

Edit: I’d like to add I’ve never lost a fish to acclimation.

 

[JayM]

I think you might need to read the link I posted (if you haven't already), and start from square one.
I really don't see this thread progressing in a positive direction if you don't. The ball is in your court.

 

[tautog83]

You should just update your process in a word document on your own computer . I bet its going to look a lot like this thread . If you self diagnosed and feel like youre doing the right thing ,then youre all set . We wish you the best

 

[Kzang]

I think you might need to read the link I posted (if you haven't already), and start from square one.
I really don't see this thread progressing in a positive direction if you don't. The ball is in your court.

I’ve posted most of that info. At this point, it is still alive. And I’m going with flukes with the treatment I’ve done. It’s too late to get any more treatment options as lfs has closed. If it lives by morning, it was flukes. If not, something else, and I’ll continue to monitor the remaining fish.

I don’t think it’ll benefit doing anything else at this point.

 

[Nemoreef]

On shipped fish, I always take a needle poke the bag to get a salinity reading then tape it up and keep it floating so no oxygen exchange happens. Then mix up a batch of matching salinity and temp and just dump the fish in without any of the shipping water.

This is what I would like to do but I am worried about other parameters. What happens to other parameters like alk, CA, Mg, Ph etc? Can they adjust to these quick?

 

[Kzang]

You should just update your process in a word document on your own computer . I bet its going to look a lot like this thread . If you self diagnosed and feel like youre doing the right thing ,then youre all set . We wish you the best

Thank you. It is still alive, and it was on deaths door 8 hours ago. It still doesn’t look good, but I’m going with flukes and prazi as treatment. Signs pointed that way and I’m going with it and time for buying other treatment options has past.

I’ll know by morning if it was or not and continue to monitor the other fish.

 

[Kzang]

This is what I would like to do but I am worried about other parameters. What happens to other parameters like alk, CA, Mg, Ph etc? Can they adjust to these quick?

8.2 alk, 451 cal, 1402 mag, ph 8.1. Nothing crazy. Nitrate and phosphate is fine. Can’t test ammonia or nitrite. I’m not worried about them.

 

[BeanAnimal]

If it lives by morning, it was flukes.

That is a logical fallacy. It is "flukes" if you can find dead flukes.

"You have a fever, I gave you tamiflu and you lived, therefore you had swine flue or you wold have died" makes about as much logical sense.

Kindly, part of the issue throughout this thread is your insistence that your logic is sound and should be what is used to give you advice. Informed people are trying to help based on their knowledge, not your already drawn conclusions and you are getting frustrated. Take a look backward my friend, you ran off two (three) of the most knowledge disease experts on this forum.

 

[Kzang]

That is a logical fallacy. It is "flukes" if you can find dead flukes.

"You have a fever, I gave you tamiflu and you lived, therefore you had swine flue or you wold have died" makes about as much logical sense.

Kindly, part of the issue throughout this thread is your insistence that your logic is sound and should be what is used to give you advice. Informed people are trying to help based on their knowledge, not your already drawn conclusions and you are getting frustrated. Take a look backward my friend, you ran off two (three) of the most knowledge disease experts on this forum.

It wasn’t my intention. I was saying what I think and what I observed.

I just pointed out signs of it being flukes. I pointed out the head shake after the prazi.

I do not know for sure it is flukes, otherwise I wouldn’t have posted here.