Frogspawn head closing up

Kaykay101

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
7
Reaction score
26
Location
Rochester
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
One of the heads on my frogspawn I’ve had in the same spot for a little over a year is closing up and the center is white. All the other heads are looking good and the gum line is too. There also hasn’t been any change in flow recently. Any idea what could be causing this?
917678FD-15ED-48C0-965B-26C78222DAF7.jpeg
423C7DC5-832D-460E-BC18-CE5D70764045.jpeg
4DB5448E-CE20-4536-8EC6-7E63852EEB89.jpeg
A3EE9D15-D0A5-48B7-8666-E56015F8567F.jpeg
 

Adam1985

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 24, 2021
Messages
161
Reaction score
92
Location
Shanghai
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It’s hard to tell from the photos but I’ve had this situation before. Usually for me it’s been due to chemical warfare from nearby corals or sudden trauma (like a power head or other coral falling on it and staying on it for hours). Based on the photo I think it still has a good chance to recover.

It’s interesting that only one head is affected, but anyway let’s be thankful!

I’d first check if anything is close enough to be stinging and irritating that head. If not then I would relocate it to a very calm location for healing and observation. Fragging the affected head might be in order if you start to see necrosis. I wouldn’t even blame you if you decided to frag it sooner.

Also, if this started very recently, perhaps consider if it’s just emptying it’s bowel. They look awful when doing that, but the whole process would be quite fast; over in a couple of hours. There would a dark, mucous like material coming out of its mouth.

Good luck.
 
OP
OP
Kaykay101

Kaykay101

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
7
Reaction score
26
Location
Rochester
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It’s hard to tell from the photos but I’ve had this situation before. Usually for me it’s been due to chemical warfare from nearby corals or sudden trauma (like a power head or other coral falling on it and staying on it for hours). Based on the photo I think it still has a good chance to recover.

It’s interesting that only one head is affected, but anyway let’s be thankful!

I’d first check if anything is close enough to be stinging and irritating that head. If not then I would relocate it to a very calm location for healing and observation. Fragging the affected head might be in order if you start to see necrosis. I wouldn’t even blame you if you decided to frag it sooner.

Also, if this started very recently, perhaps consider if it’s just emptying it’s bowel. They look awful when doing that, but the whole process would be quite fast; over in a couple of hours. There would a dark, mucous like material coming out of its mouth.

Good luck.
It’s been like this for a day or two. Besides the gold hammer on the other side of it no coral are close enough to sting it from what I can tell, there is a pectinia under it by about 4 inches though it’s closer to a different head of the frogspawn and not the one that’s acting up. I also don’t think I can frag just that head off very easy as where the gum line is it’s connecting it to two other heads.
 

LeftyReefer

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 17, 2020
Messages
2,535
Reaction score
2,823
Location
Saginaw
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hopefully it is just in the process of splitting.
My frogspawn recently put out some mesenterial filaments and it freaked me out, come to find out it was just splitting and a few days later it was totally fine. On mine, one big head, split into 4 new heads.
 

vetteguy53081

Well known Member and monster tank lover
View Badges
Joined
Aug 11, 2013
Messages
91,672
Reaction score
202,268
Location
Wisconsin -
Rating - 100%
13   0   0
Its recession and often a sign of stress.
Stress?
These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot emphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
To ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.

Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.

1619048019109.png
 
OP
OP
Kaykay101

Kaykay101

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Oct 26, 2021
Messages
7
Reaction score
26
Location
Rochester
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Its recession and often a sign of stress.
Stress?
These coral are photosynthetic and therefore respond to UV strength and increase/reduction in lighting. One of the more important requirements for frogspawn is Placement. It is an overlooked element that contributes to the overall acclimation and sustainability of your frogspawn. Some hobbyists simply choose to, Put it where is looks best but to reduce the amount of strain on your specimen, you should ideally place it in an area of your tank similar to the area in which you found it when you purchased it or where there is moderate light.
Another consideration to account for during the placement of your coral is the amount of light it will be receiving. This decision should never be random; should never be haphazard. Although capable of doing quite well in a relatively large range of lighting levels, ideally, your Frogspawn Corals do best when provided a moderate amount of lighting, with many hobbyists finding success with an added bit, or partial, shading. Euphyllia (theyre a member of this group) do not enjoy direct high lighting. Keep in mind that the amount of lighting and the degree of water flow work hand-in-hand in sustaining healthy coral life and growth. Although technically capable of survival, frogspawn DO NOT appreciate high or even moderately high flow. They will open much bigger in gentle flow, and will be able to grow into those beautiful serene tendrils that you see swaying within your habitat. (see my pic below- this was a size of a quarter a year ago and now 6"x4")
I cannot emphasize the incredible importance of both lighting as well as placement. Never, ever place your corals, select your lighting, or randomly pair different specimens or species within a tank, and just hope for the best. Remember, like any coral, Frogspawn Coral requires a very specific amount of lighting, and in this case, it’s not a whole lot. Unlike many other corals, Frogspawn Corals don’t require a whole lot of lighting. They are also 100 PAR, but even levels as low as 50 PAR will work well for this beautiful species.
To ensure successful acclimation, growth, and just overall, general health, your Frogspawn Corals prefer a moderate to strong water flow within your habitat. Interestingly enough, you can control the growth .If you want to look for a more contract compacted look, a higher flow will help you to achieve that. If you want a more extended, sway appearance from your Frogspawn, a low to moderate flow. Aesthetically, what originally drew hobbyists to this coral was its ability to serenely sway in the currents.

Frogspawn are not the most aggressive eaters. Broadcast feeding is typically the easiest, most effective approach. Additionally, if there is too great a flow, or if there are fish in your habitat that are aggressively harassing them, they’re just not going to eat. Even if they are able to successfully get the food into their mouths, they often quickly spit it back out--quick enough where they may not even be digesting any of the food. By trying to directly feed, you are much more likely to develop an algae problem from uneaten food accumulating in your tank than you are to find success in direct feeding.
Follow these simple steps and let it take its' course. Theyre easy enough to meet the care needed and yes, they do shrink in the evening. One test- Increase your lighting a little once they shrink, and within the hour, you will see them puff up again.

1619048019109.png
That's the thing though, it's been in this same spot for over a year and was placed there when it was one tiny head a quarter of the size of one of it's heads, and now it's 5 big heads. Nothing has changed for flow since September and lighting since it was placed there.
 

LeftyReefer

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 17, 2020
Messages
2,535
Reaction score
2,823
Location
Saginaw
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If it was lighting, flow, parameters, it wouldn't just affect one single head.
the rest of the heads look nice and healthy. That's why I say its probably just splitting.
 

Shirak

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 3, 2019
Messages
2,271
Reaction score
1,251
Location
Thousand Islands, NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
That's the thing though, it's been in this same spot for over a year and was placed there when it was one tiny head a quarter of the size of one of it's heads, and now it's 5 big heads. Nothing has changed for flow since September and lighting since it was placed there.
Lighting and flow changes as the individual coral grows and as other corals in the tank grow. It's on the lower portion and towards the center of the cluster. Perhaps flow to that particular head is being blocked by the other heads and the heads above it are shading it more now. Can see quite a bit of shadow from the head that is almost directly above it and in close proximity.
 

Clear reef vision: How do you clean the inside of the glass on your aquarium?

  • Razor blade

    Votes: 140 60.6%
  • Plastic scraper

    Votes: 65 28.1%
  • Clean-up crew

    Votes: 83 35.9%
  • Magic eraser

    Votes: 41 17.7%
  • Other

    Votes: 63 27.3%
Back
Top