Hey forum. Just got some questions bout my tank since I'm new to the hobby. One issue I've been having is my salinity is about 1.29 and I can't seem to get it down. I've been adding gallons of distilled water but it only goes down a little and pops back up very quickly. Also when can you get coral. My test kit shows my nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia are 0, my lighting is A1 Prime(btw I got the JBJ 45 gallon) my cleanup crew, powerheads, and protein skimmer. Tank has been set up for about 5 months now. I don't want to get corals if they are going to die. Is there any other things I need first. Last question is there is a slimy brown algae on the back of my tank, what is this and what can get rid of it. My livestock is CUC, occerlaris clown, starry Lenny, and skunk cleaner. Thanks and if there is anything else I'm doing wrong please tell me.
General questions.
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michellejy
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I have a few questions for you, and hopefully we can get you on the right track.
Do you have an RO/DI unit? (I am assuming not since you said you are adding distilled water, but I wanted to make sure.)
Do you have an automatic top off set up to maintain your salinity?
How are you testing your salinity to know it is that high?
When you say you are adding a gallon of water, do you mean you are removing a gallon of saltwater and adding a gallon of water, or do you mean you are adding a gallon over the course of a week to top off the existing water?
Do you have an RO/DI unit? (I am assuming not since you said you are adding distilled water, but I wanted to make sure.)
Do you have an automatic top off set up to maintain your salinity?
How are you testing your salinity to know it is that high?
When you say you are adding a gallon of water, do you mean you are removing a gallon of saltwater and adding a gallon of water, or do you mean you are adding a gallon over the course of a week to top off the existing water?
If your salt pops back up you need to replace some water with RODI water not just add it to the tank as when the water vaporized your NSW is back to what it was.
Your # for corals aren't bad as you No3 and Po4 can be a bit higher as in 2ppm for No3 and 0.03 for Po4.
What is your alk, cal and mag?
no I don't have a ro/I'd unit nor auto top off. I do check my salinity everyday with a refroctometer. And when I add the gallon of distilled water, I don't take any water out of the tank because of evaporation my water gets low. My alkalinity is about 9 dk (I don't really know what that means) and calcium is 380. I just ordered 60 more snails to hopefully eat some of that slim off back because my cleaner shrimp ate my last order. I didn't initially know to target feed him. Thanks
michellejy
Well-Known Member
Okay, your salinity will not go down unless you actually remove some water and add some at a lower salinity. You could lower it slowly by removing 1/2 gallon and adding 1/2 gallon of fresh water. Alternatively, you could do larger water changes with water at lower salinity.
The reason it isn't going down yet is because just topping off maintains the salinity you already have.
The reason it isn't going down yet is because just topping off maintains the salinity you already have.
BoneXriffic
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The brown death is all part of the process and usually an end sign of the cycle.
Also....distilled water is probally fueling the brown algae if any silcates were used in its process. If you must use bottled water only use the green capped water from walmart or publix...green cap is rodi and i ran on it in my 30 for over a year
Also....distilled water is probally fueling the brown algae if any silcates were used in its process. If you must use bottled water only use the green capped water from walmart or publix...green cap is rodi and i ran on it in my 30 for over a year
Tahoe61
10K Club member
Mix your own SW to an SG of 1.023-1.025. How frequent are your water changes?
The ATO/automated top off that JBJ makes will get the job done without too much expense. See link below
http://www.marinedepot.com/Tunze_Os...f_Plug_In_Units-Tunze-TZ4114-FIDPETPU-vi.html
Topping off once a day will not cut it if you want to keep corals. I have the JBJ RL 45 tank, my tank loses about 1/2 gallon a day. You want to avoid swings in SG. Adding a 1/2 gallon once a day is too much of a swing. You have to add 1/4 gallon in am and 1/4 in the evening to avoid such dramatic swings. Get a 5 gallon glass tank at petco or petsmart for the ATO, it fits perfectly in the stand.
Get Turbo snails, Cerith and Astrea snails once you get the SG under control. I have about 9 snails and they seem to do the job on my tank.
Add more flow to the tank. If you can afford a Mp10 Vortech get it.
What intensity are you running the Prime at? I run a Hydra 52 (same maker as the prime), so you may have to think about adding another prime for proper coverage and par.
The ATO/automated top off that JBJ makes will get the job done without too much expense. See link below
http://www.marinedepot.com/Tunze_Os...f_Plug_In_Units-Tunze-TZ4114-FIDPETPU-vi.html
Topping off once a day will not cut it if you want to keep corals. I have the JBJ RL 45 tank, my tank loses about 1/2 gallon a day. You want to avoid swings in SG. Adding a 1/2 gallon once a day is too much of a swing. You have to add 1/4 gallon in am and 1/4 in the evening to avoid such dramatic swings. Get a 5 gallon glass tank at petco or petsmart for the ATO, it fits perfectly in the stand.
Get Turbo snails, Cerith and Astrea snails once you get the SG under control. I have about 9 snails and they seem to do the job on my tank.
Add more flow to the tank. If you can afford a Mp10 Vortech get it.
What intensity are you running the Prime at? I run a Hydra 52 (same maker as the prime), so you may have to think about adding another prime for proper coverage and par.
I actually buy saltwater that's from the ocean or something cause I don't have a rodi unit, I have a lot flow with a hydor plus the two on the tank. Do you think I need more? I water change probobly once a month. I put the lights on all the way. Is that a problem?
I may buy one of those auto top offs when I get the money. How does it work?
michellejy
Well-Known Member
Don't add any more snails until you get your salinity down to 1.025 or 1.026. Do it slowly so you don't kill your current tank inhabitants though.
If you are buying that much water, it will probably be cheaper to get your own RO/DI.
You also need to get your salinity down before adding corals, and weekly water changes will help maintain nutrient levels.
Look up Bulk Reef Supply's YouTube video about the Tunze ATO (it is on their page for the product). They have a quick and concise overview.
Sorry, I would post a direct link, but I am on my phone.
If you are buying that much water, it will probably be cheaper to get your own RO/DI.
You also need to get your salinity down before adding corals, and weekly water changes will help maintain nutrient levels.
Look up Bulk Reef Supply's YouTube video about the Tunze ATO (it is on their page for the product). They have a quick and concise overview.
Sorry, I would post a direct link, but I am on my phone.
Tahoe61
10K Club member
You can buy RO/DI or just RO from Walmart to mix with or you can use Distilled when in a bind. Regionally where are you located, NSW (normal salt water) can mean different things depending on where you're located. For now I would do wc bi-monthly if able.
With regard to flow how many gallons per hour/gph does the power head provide? It should list the gph on the box. I like at least 850 gph for a soft coral tank of 45 gallons.
The Prime does not provide enough coverage on a 45, so stick with hardy corals like Xenia, Sinularia, the mushrooms (corallimorphs), hardy lps like acan, Euphyllia. You can tell by your image there is too much shading, light loving corals will need to be placed in the direct lighting.
For the ATO, you simply place the pump in the 5 gallon tank housed within the stand. Connect the electrical connections, running the output tube along the back and use the clamp provided. The sensor/magnet placement will depend on how high you want your water level in the back compartments and the desired SG value. You can start another thread on ATO if needed when you get an ATO. :)
The sensor in the back chamber has a float, once that float falls below desired levels it triggers the pump within the ATO reserve (tank under within the stand) to begin pumping FW (fresh water) via the output tube to the back chambers of the tank. It may take a couple tries to get water level and SG correct.
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My powerheads together with the pumps that come with th system do 1100 gph. I'm going to buy the auto top off once I get the money, it seems like a neccesity in my case. What corals do you suggest for a begginer. Also what fish will swim around all day. Thanks for all the help
Tahoe61
10K Club member
Sinularia, Sarcophyton (Toad Stool), any of the mushrooms (Corallimorphia), a lot of the Zoanthids. I am not a big fan of the Palys because they can become so invasive. I like Xenia and it's a great fascinating coral but can become invasive. For LPS I like Duncans, Acans and the Euphyllias.
For fish I like the Royal Gramma, Yellow Tail Damsel, Coral Beauty Angel, Cardinals, Yellow Watchman Goby, Flame Hawk Fish. Being a clown fish fan I always have a pair of clowns, type depend on your preference.
For fish I like the Royal Gramma, Yellow Tail Damsel, Coral Beauty Angel, Cardinals, Yellow Watchman Goby, Flame Hawk Fish. Being a clown fish fan I always have a pair of clowns, type depend on your preference.
Alright so for the brown algae out take just get like 4 astrea snails, and 4 red hermit crabs and wait a little and see how they do, if your brown algae continues then add a couple more. Reef tanks is a very patient game, and the algae will hopefully go away on its own with the snails helping.. And then for the salinity just get ro/di water from your local fish store.. Since you have a lid on your tank you really don't need an auto top off unit but if money isn't an option for ya, and you got cash to spend then you can always get an ato system and an ro/di unit but you don't need them, depending on the corals I would start with a cool Zoa frag and see how it does cause its hardy! Everyone is going to give you their best opinion so do what's best for your set up and wallet and remember to be PATIENT with the whole process!
What else do you have in the tank right now? Do you have any photos of the mouth fungus?
If it is a fungus you can use Seachem kanaplex with focus in their food to treat. And yes could be caused due to poor water conditions.
If it is a fungus you can use Seachem kanaplex with focus in their food to treat. And yes could be caused due to poor water conditions.
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