OP
OP
At this point I do not have my Trident alpha-alpha prototype in any feedback loop. Look for this in a couple of months when we have everything more complete and stable and I have a new prototype on the tank.
Gilroy 425g Build Thread (All Apex, all the time)
- Monster Build
- Thread starter Terence
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OP
OP
Much of the credit goes to the Philips CoralCare lights. I have seen no other LED on the market that can get you lighting that so emulates traditional metal halide and does not create blue cast in your photos. That said, the iPhone X and its two lenses is a big leap from my iPhone 6 it replaced.
powers2001
started reefing 1999
Wow Terence I didn't know this thread existed. Now I can see how a true control freak runs a reef tank, Apex style that is!! I'd like to read this whole thread when I get the chance. I've seen a few pictures of the display and they look stunning with those show piece sized corals. B-)
I really need some help. I have tried to get this to work (it is basically a duplicate of what you are going - Terence). I have obviously tailored the dosing to my tanks needs, but the darn thing only works for one day and then stops. I can get it to start dosing the next day by switching the DOS pump to ON and then back to AUTO, but the next day after 12:00 noon, it doesn’t begin dosing again. The control for the DOS indicates that it is in “DOS_CARX” profile. Anyone know why this happens?
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
OP
OP
AFAIK that should work. Someone else might have a reason its not happening. Or contact support.
OP
OP
Last week I received a sample of a snap-on phone camera filter as well as gradated filter slide from the folks over at reeftrends.com. I just tried it out the other night in what is probably the most daunting of photography situations on a reef tank - a tank only lit by actinics. In this case the Actinics are the awesome XHO ones from ReefBrite. I could think of no more difficult situation to use these filters. Below are some pics I shot. The clip just snapped right on my iPhone X. If I wanted to use one lens or the other on my phone, I simply readjusted it a bit. Sure, there is still a lot of blue, but look at how the corals pop. In a few days I will take some pics with my SLR and 105mm Macro lens using the slide filter - but under more normal lighting situation. Stay tuned for that.
If you want to pick a set of these up, go to: https://reeftrends.com/index.php?ro...693_694&product_id=2535&mfp=manufacturers[18]
I think it is definitely worth the <$20 cost
If you want to pick a set of these up, go to: https://reeftrends.com/index.php?ro...693_694&product_id=2535&mfp=manufacturers[18]
I think it is definitely worth the <$20 cost
OP
OP
Here is something I want to share that relates to the Apex and a feature in Apex Fusion we just improved. If you happen to have the new (2016) Apex with the Energy Bar 832 you know that it can monitor the power usage of your devices. Most people don't realize that there is a great feature inside Apex Fusion that makes use of this data in a way that can save you a ton of money - and help the environment at the same time. It's called the "Power Log" and is accessible from the main menu using the lightning bolt icon button.
In this screen you can see exactly how much all the devices plugged into the 120V outlets of the EB832 are costing you. And, you can look at subsets of outlets as well. Now this is a costly time of year for me. My sump is under my house. The temperature down there at this time of year is about 55-60 degrees. That means that about 25% of my water at any one time is in that environment, and the remainder it is in my home at an average of about 70 degrees. That means there is going to be a lot of heating necessary. And heat cost big $. So, any adjustment you can make in this area is likely to save you, big time. But how much? Is it even worth the trouble? How could you know?
One thing I have done each year is cover the sump with a piece of 2" foam wall insulation that I have made cut outs for the skimmer and for the kessil lights to shine through (I will snap a photo later and post). This year I got on this far too late. An I knew it was costing me money. But I wanted to know how much money. Well it turns out it amounted to about $50+ a month! When you see the video, don't have a heart attack. It's OK. I've come to accept my power cost that is 2x-3x the rest of the country. Ugh. Sure I have. Right. U-huh!
The thing to focus on is the improvement in the monthly cost. The video shows the total usage and cost of all the devices plugged into my EB832 (about 80% of my equipment is) as well as the cost of the heaters I've selected.
Now in this example I am showing how I reduced cost by covering it. What would the cost savings to your tank if you simply took it from 78 degrees to 77, or 76? How much would you be helping the environment? Maybe your heater would only need to come on 50% of the amount it does now. Something to think about.
Now if you do not see this icon in your Apex Fusion, it is because you likely do not have an newer Apex with the EB832.
In this screen you can see exactly how much all the devices plugged into the 120V outlets of the EB832 are costing you. And, you can look at subsets of outlets as well. Now this is a costly time of year for me. My sump is under my house. The temperature down there at this time of year is about 55-60 degrees. That means that about 25% of my water at any one time is in that environment, and the remainder it is in my home at an average of about 70 degrees. That means there is going to be a lot of heating necessary. And heat cost big $. So, any adjustment you can make in this area is likely to save you, big time. But how much? Is it even worth the trouble? How could you know?
One thing I have done each year is cover the sump with a piece of 2" foam wall insulation that I have made cut outs for the skimmer and for the kessil lights to shine through (I will snap a photo later and post). This year I got on this far too late. An I knew it was costing me money. But I wanted to know how much money. Well it turns out it amounted to about $50+ a month! When you see the video, don't have a heart attack. It's OK. I've come to accept my power cost that is 2x-3x the rest of the country. Ugh. Sure I have. Right. U-huh!
The thing to focus on is the improvement in the monthly cost. The video shows the total usage and cost of all the devices plugged into my EB832 (about 80% of my equipment is) as well as the cost of the heaters I've selected.
Now in this example I am showing how I reduced cost by covering it. What would the cost savings to your tank if you simply took it from 78 degrees to 77, or 76? How much would you be helping the environment? Maybe your heater would only need to come on 50% of the amount it does now. Something to think about.
Now if you do not see this icon in your Apex Fusion, it is because you likely do not have an newer Apex with the EB832.
Anavarchus
Community Member
Terence - thank you so much for not only documenting your amazing journey for the rest of us, but also for keeping the information coming! I’ve kept reef tanks of various sizes for many years, but am now preparing to embark on the largest yet (likely in the neighborhood of ~500 gallons). I’ve just spent the first two days of my vacation reading your entire thread and taking a lot of notes, so please know that you have been a tremendous inspiration. I’ve also just purchased my first-ever Neptune Systems controller and have thoroughly enjoyed seeing all of the ways that it can benefit my system. Your tank is beautiful, and I truly look forward to seeing your updates in the future! Thanks again, and I hope you and your family have a safe and enjoyable holiday season!
OP
OP
These kinds of posts fuel my fire in the hobby, in the community, and of course my motivation to keep sharing. Thank you!
Member No 1
Well-Known Member
Terence, I initially came to this thread after a search on using DOS to feed my Ca reactor. However, I ended up reading it end to end! Very nice and informative thread.I have the DOS set up to push water into the CR. When you add more water, the excess rolls into the aquarium out of the output with no restriction or valve to clog.
So right now I use a profile to do the dosing as opposed to using the automatic method with the chart. I do this because I want a specific dosing frequency and the algorithm in the automatic setting does not give me what I want.
The profile is set up to have the DOS push 180ml into the CR every 3 min (180 seconds) @ 250ml/min. This means it runs about 45 seconds every three minutes. Because the profile settings only allow 255 doses this way and I may have wanted to tweak it here and there, I split the day in two for the outlet programming and used two profiles to do it (only used two different ones in case I wanted to play around independently).
The CR pH barely fluctuates. This proved my theory that non-continuous CR feed could work just fine.
One of the best parts of using the DOS is the ease with which you want to make changes. Now both the melt point of the media AND the flow rate of the reactor are controlled (digitally) by my Apex from my phone. This makes it much easier to tweak accurately and consistently and test.
Here are some of the drawbacks:
- noise - at 250ml/min, no peristaltic pump that a hobbyist can afford will be quiet. However, since my application is not in a living space (my FishCave), it is not a problem for me.
- wear and tear - we will see the longevity, but I have been using the same head on this DOS for 4-5 months already and it is doing just fine. Replacing the head set is just $30 so if one gets six months on average, it is probably worth it.
- max flow rate - given the 1/3 duty cycle choice by Neptune Systems to improve longevity of the motors, it means that with one pump head I can only get to a point where my dosing is just over 80ml/min. If I need to go past that, I will have to employ the second head to do it. Until then, the second pump head will dose AcroPower from Two Little Fishies!
I have been using Apex for control going way back with the ACIII and X-10 modules, Apex sure has come a long way!
Reason for my post, my current tank, an 80 gal. rimless running Apex Classic, will be replace in the next few weeks/months with a 120 gal. and the new Apex 2016. I already am using the DOS for daily water changes on the 80, but I was intrigued with the idea of using the DOS to feed my Ca reactor. So I have purchased a second DOS to do just that. However looking at your post above, I have a few questions.
1. In the profile above the Per Dose Amount is 180.0 ml - Does that dose 3 180ml doses or 3 60ml doses?
2. The Dose Intervals, (and as I type I think I'm answering my own question), does this take the 180ml dose amount from above, split it into 3 60ml doses over 180 sec (3 minutes)?
3. Last, in the Output Configuration, you show two profiles, am I correct in assuming that profile DOS100-2 is an exact copy of DOS100?
I know you mentioned about using both heads to feed your reactor to reduce wear on the unit, have you tried this, and if so do you have any coding?
Thanks for any info you can share.
Lousybreed
Well-Known Member
If you took the denitrifying system off line you wouldn’t miss a beat. Ok, for a week it might spike up a bit, maybe 5ppm NO3. Nothing is more stable and effective than macros. Cheato in particular. Great thread my friend. I have learned a lot. Very grateful for your ability to keep it going. Last question, with buying the Triton mega jugs, what is your estimated monthly cost? And based on your testing, has your usage gone up in a linear or exponential pace. I always wondered if coral growth nutrient uptake was a constant increase in dosage rate or as you get more colonies the demand actually skyrockets and goes more exponential.
OP
OP
My cost right now is about $2/day. I am using about 50% more than when I started (now 50ml/day) but I am also have been tweaking my CaRx here and there and just in the last couple weeks trying to sneak up my DKh by a point. Corals are getting and bigger and the tank is really liking the Triton so as much as I like to tinker and try other things, it will be hard to pry me off of this 4-part.
Lousybreed
Well-Known Member
Ok, got it. So you are doing the CArx and triton!!! Very awesome!! Best of both worlds most likely.
Lousybreed
Well-Known Member
Also need to say that your willingness to try new things in a nice tank is amazing. I mean your tank was successful but you want it even better. Most people would balk at switching over methods. But to invent your method and go all in is impressive. Especially considering some of your ultra corals. It takes a big pair to do that!!
OP
OP
Thank you!
OP
OP
It was simply a cost-cutting measure but I have not done a full analysis on that - might be a wash when you consider CO2, media, and power of two pumps (DOS+Sicce).
I think in the end I may totally simplify and go with a dosing solution like the Triton unless someone can give me two bottles minor and trace elements and the ratios of those both in relation to the CaRx output (ml @ dKh concentration of the effluent). I think a product like that would be excellent for advanced and large reef aquarium owners.
OP
OP
A big part of the fun of reefkeeping for me is the desire to keep turning the dials to make it better and better. Easier and easier. The trade off is the risk. That said, I usually only change one thing at a time and I try and do it slowly if possible.
OP
OP
I think the Philips CoralCare (shout out to @Luc Vogels) are the best lights out there right now. Period. If you use BRS (@Ryanbrs ) criteria and stack ranking of what matters (which I totally agree with), the CoralCare easily comes out on top. Where it falls short will matter a lot to many out there (ugly fixture, limited controllability) but for me it did not matter as they are in a canopy and the two channel control via my Apex is enough because they have made the control curves for LED ratios spot on. Sure, you cannot tell it to give you all the cyan or amber LED to 100% independently, but who needs/wants that anyways. It is about using what works to grow corals and then what looks good. If you cannot find that on the two-axis control (I will admit I was skeptical at first) then you should look elsewhere for a way to kill your corals.
I added the XHO @Reefbrite Actinics because they are the best out there IMO for Actinic LED supplementation. I did want a bit more blue pop at certain times and at my command from my Apex, and this was the best way to get it.
OP
OP
Well I made a trip out to my friend Mark's company, Tenji, last Friday. For those of you that do not know who Tenji (www.tenji.com) is, they are a full service high-end aquarium building and service company that focuses on insane life-support systems for some of the nation's most recognizable museums and aquariums as well as some very exclusive private aquariums. For those of you familiar with our marketing materials at Neptune Systems, the aquarium featured in our company catalog as well as the backdrop on the videos I do was Tenji's main office aquarium. It was an amazing system. The aquarium was taken down because Tenji is moving to new digs and they are moving all the livestock into a giant reef tank they have put together over there. Because of the move, Mark invited me down to pick up some frags that fall off as well as a bank some other corals in case some don't make it. A few of these do not look their full potential yet because some were taken from shaded parts of the colonies, etc. but I think they will all come in beautifully.
Because I had all these new corals, I had to have a place to put them. This required me to dig out a couple of more pieces of real reef rock and build a new section into my SPS reef. I left some blank areas in the aquascape from the beginning knowing that I would want to add on at some point.
Because I had all these new corals, I had to have a place to put them. This required me to dig out a couple of more pieces of real reef rock and build a new section into my SPS reef. I left some blank areas in the aquascape from the beginning knowing that I would want to add on at some point.
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