Guide to the Triton Method

[Scott.h]

Carbon dosing actually works very well with Core7.

A word of warning though, choose your carbon source carefully as some are not designed to be used in a zero water change system and will leave behind elements to accumulate quickly. You are best to stick to simple sources such as Vodka or Vinegar

Excellent. Im a fan of 5 o'clock. It holds a 2 part purpose :D. Pun intended

 

[Tristren]

If you used dry rock to start the tank you may benefit from letting the tank mature a bit first. Do some regular water changes before you spend money on tests, etc. The rocks may leach something, and things when that new tend to go through some rough patches no matter what you do. My two cents. In the meantime you'll be able to get a skimmer going. When and if you start, make sure you use the "non full method core" until the "ugly phase" is behind you, and the fuge is mature.

I do have dry (Marco) rock, so thanks for that tip. It is still early days for our tank, so I assumed that getting it a bit more established before moving to Triton would be appropriate.

@Tim@Triton do you have a view on when to make that move? And also could you comment on why the recommendation is to not have a sand bed in the sump?

 

[Berlibee]

@Tim@Triton don't you mind please to check my question. It's important for people who keep multiple systems and frag tanks. Thank you again! ;)
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/guide-to-the-triton-method.299187/page-4#post-3913843

+

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/guide-to-the-triton-method.299187/page-4#post-3914175

 

[Tim@Triton]

@Tim@TritonDo you guys have any information about how corals react when they're taken out of a Triton system to a different method system.
Let's say it's a frag from a Triton system put into a different system run with a more classic method with chaeto reactor and skimmer only...
Do you have any information about? Thank you again.

We don't have that information but it would be the same as swapping corals from any system, if the new system does not provide all the elements and stable parameters it is used to then the likelihood is the coral won't be too happy while it gets used to the new levels.

 

[Tim@Triton]

Can I ask you also please. Do Triton have something in the line of additives separate for refugium burst, so I can use separate from the full method to burst my refugium growth and does it make sense to do it?
Thank you.

You can dose elements individually regardless if you are running the Triton method or not.

Just ICP test the water and adjust the required elements, Iodine and Iron help algae growth. Caution is advised though as too much can fuel pest algae growth.

 

[Tim@Triton]

I do have dry (Marco) rock, so thanks for that tip. It is still early days for our tank, so I assumed that getting it a bit more established before moving to Triton would be appropriate.

@Tim@Triton do you have a view on when to make that move? And also could you comment on why the recommendation is to not have a sand bed in the sump?

As Scott says it is best to get your system up and running and carry out an ICP test before you start dosing as you could end up chasing your tail if you find a problem later on, you maybe required to carry out a few water changes to get rid of any contaminations. Once they are done and you are ICP clear then you are safe in the knowledge that you can proceed.

 

[Berlibee]

Thank you very much for your answers. @Tim@Triton

 

[Tristren]

As Scott says it is best to get your system up and running and carry out an ICP test before you start dosing as you could end up chasing your tail if you find a problem later on, you maybe required to carry out a few water changes to get rid of any contaminations. Once they are done and you are ICP clear then you are safe in the knowledge that you can proceed.

Thanks very much Tim. Can you comment on the reasons for the no sand in refugium recommendation?

 

[Tim@Triton]

Thanks very much Tim. Can you comment on the reasons for the no sand in refugium recommendation?

There is no need for it, simply as that. If you are referring to a deep sand bed then it is competing for the same nutrients as the algae bed therefore neither will benefit, if a shallow sand bed then it will not do anything apart from aiding in the accumulation of detritus.

 

[Tristren]

There is no need for it, simply as that. If you are referring to a deep sand bed then it is competing for the same nutrients as the algae bed therefore neither will benefit, if a shallow sand bed then it will not do anything apart from aiding in the accumulation of detritus.

Thanks very much. So if someone does want to have the extra life that comes with a sand bed it won't interfere with the method.

 

[Scott.h]

Thanks very much. So if someone does want to have the extra life that comes with a sand bed it won't interfere with the method.

As long as you can deal with the end result it should not matter. Meaning that your nutrients stay in check and it's not robbing space. Personally I can't see where it would be any different then having sand in the display. I have 3 fuges, one with sand. I wish that I didn't have it in there. With my experience it does nothing in nutrient export and robs space, but I don't dare disturb it now, as that is already my highest nutrient tank. I plan on switching that tank over to full method as well as soon as I get another dosing pump.

 

[Goubli]

What do you guys think about using an algae reactor (not turf scrubber) in lieu of the fuge, or in addition to one? I would like to try triton out, but due to space limitations I cannot use an appropriately sized refugium.

Other hobbyists are claiming solid nutrient export results from this method and as I understand the Triton method the main reason for the fuge is nutrient export, correct?

 

[zoanutty]

Question: does the light cycle in the fuge need to be opposite that of the tank? Or can it be the same?

 

[Tim@Triton]

What do you guys think about using an algae reactor (not turf scrubber) in lieu of the fuge, or in addition to one? I would like to try triton out, but due to space limitations I cannot use an appropriately sized refugium.

Other hobbyists are claiming solid nutrient export results from this method and as I understand the Triton method the main reason for the fuge is nutrient export, correct?

If you want to use an algae reactor then I would recommend using the Core7 Reef Supplements for Other Methods.

 

[Tim@Triton]

Question: does the light cycle in the fuge need to be opposite that of the tank? Or can it be the same?

We recommend running the algae light in reverse to the main tank lights

 

[Scott.h]

What do you guys think about using an algae reactor (not turf scrubber) in lieu of the fuge, or in addition to one? I would like to try triton out, but due to space limitations I cannot use an appropriately sized refugium.

Other hobbyists are claiming solid nutrient export results from this method and as I understand the Triton method the main reason for the fuge is nutrient export, correct?

You'll get some other benefits too, as the macro will release beneficial elements to the coral.

Question: does the light cycle in the fuge need to be opposite that of the tank? Or can it be the same?

If you run it in reverse you'll help minimize the ph swing.

 

[Redseamax650led]

i'm starting my tank, and would like to use full triton method, my tank is a red sea peninsula 500, the tank is 102 gal, and the refuguim area will be less than 10gal, can i just add a chaeto reactor, to compensate with my small refugium?

 

[Tim@Triton]

You can if required, you can also start with the Core7 Reef Supplements for 'Other Methods' which will help by reducing the risk of pest algae with lower pro algae elements as found in the Triton Method version of Core7.

 

[Redseamax650led]

i read that the triton method requires at least 10% of the DT volume... my DT volume will be less than 100 gal after i put my dry rock and sand, do you think i will be ok with full triton method with chaeto reactor? with other method, do i need to do water changes?

 

[Tim@Triton]

If you feel you cannot achieve the 10% minimum then don't use the Triton Method version as you may fuel pest algae growth.

Requiring to do water changes or not depends on the efficiency of your chosen method to deal with nutrients and toxin removal, running a smaller fuge and a reactor should be ok, ICP testing will let you know if your method is working and if/when you need to do them.