Having trouble with anything blue, settings??

Chris Harbaugh

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I have almost 2 dozen Acro, Monti, and porcilipora, birdnest Hystrix, Stylophora frags in my 125g and my 30g tanks. All parameters are great, I do run po4 at .16 and no3 at 5 to 10ppm, but all my frags look great. Every last one of them except for any blue Acropora, the majority being Tenius that are colored blue. All green, Brown, yellow, rainbow, multi or tri color corals are perfect but my blue acro's are bleaching out and they always bleach from the base up. I have 7 different frags in differ locations, depths, water flows and I believe it may all come down to my lighting. All are now bleaching, (The only frags to do so), from the base up and I'm at a loss. I have 3 that totally bleached out and have now come back a light brownish color but others are starting to bleach. Is it my settings?? I have 4 Hydra 26 he on my 125g and 2 prime 2nd on my 30g. I have both tanks running the same program.
Any help will be appreciated.
P.s. I do dose elements using Red Sea color program and I use Red Sea feeding program A and B. I use these products according to there new program they recently started for a mixed reef tank and dose strictly according to there recomendations..
Also. I have acans, b. Welsi, hammer coral, galaxia, and a cyphastria. All doing great. I also have I've 2 dozen frags of dps and poly's are doing fine but it's a hit or miss with the zoa's..
 

saltyfilmfolks

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I'd use some white and stop peaking the blue channel so high.
Do you have a par meter? Whats your average in the high mid and bottom of the tank.
 
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Chris Harbaugh

Chris Harbaugh

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I'd use some white and stop peaking the blue channel so high.
Do you have a par meter? Whats your average in the high mid and bottom of the tank.
I have no par meter
They are pricey. I ask my lfs and showed them my setting I had previously and they said my whites were too high, I should keep them below 25% and I should increase my blues and violets and also my uv settings slowly. I did that over the last 3 weeks. Let me look and see if I still have those settings I had when I showed them at the time.
 
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Chris Harbaugh

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I'd use some white and stop peaking the blue channel so high.
Do you have a par meter? Whats your average in the high mid and bottom of the tank.
This is the program I set up when I talked to them.
I have no par meter
They are pricey. I ask my lfs and showed them my setting I had previously and they said my whites were too high, I should keep them below 25% and I should increase my blues and violets and also my uv settings slowly. I did that over the last 3 weeks. Let me look and see if I still have those settings I had when I showed them at the time.
I was informed that whites burnt corals, that's why I needed to turn them down..

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The funny thing about folks reccomending blue and white settings is , depending on what light it is , the spectrum range of what is actually in the blue and white changes.

Every light comes with a native color temp at all channel at full. Generally about 14 to 16000 kelvin.
So in theory with that mix your at is like 40,000 kelvin.

Ai is quite good at posting thier par specs and spread levels.
All the reported par is at full power.
So if you your a lux meter at the same distance as the par specs are taken (12in) you can estimate the par.
Generally the par Lux conversion is 60.
So devide Lux by 60 to estimate par.

Wee have also been talking about spread in your other thread. A lux meter can also help determine that as well and find the hot spots.
Check out the second post in this thread.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/l...lux-meter-saltyfilmfolks.248417/#post-2919964
 
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Chris Harbaugh

Chris Harbaugh

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The funny thing about folks reccomending blue and white settings is , depending on what light it is , the spectrum range of what is actually in the blue and white changes.

Every light comes with a native color temp at all channel at full. Generally about 14 to 16000 kelvin.
So in theory with that mix your at is like 40,000 kelvin.

Ai is quite good at posting thier par specs and spread levels.
All the reported par is at full power.
So if you your a lux meter at the same distance as the par specs are taken (12in) you can estimate the par.
Generally the par Lux conversion is 60.
So devide Lux by 60 to estimate par.

Wee have also been talking about spread in your other thread. A lux meter can also help determine that as well and find the hot spots.
Check out the second post in this thread.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/l...lux-meter-saltyfilmfolks.248417/#post-2919964
I will right now. Thank you. I raised my lighting up...im at exactly 12.75 inches above the waterline now...
 

High pressure shells: Do you look for signs of stress in the invertebrates in your reef tank?

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