AI Prime 16HD Settings Review

[shimps1]

I am a bit overwhelmed with the customizability of the AI Prime, so I wanted to run my settings past the forum here to see if my thought process makes sense. Unfortunately I don't have access to a PAR meter, so I am turning to the group to make sure my logic is sound. I also am not on Facebook, so while I know there is an active AI Prime group there, I can't access it.

First, I watched this video.

I have a Reef Casa Studio 12 AIO. Display area is 11" tall, 16" wide, and about 12" deep.

I am looking for a mixed reef, SPS centered up top, zoas and LPS lower. Mainly zoas and LPS, but some SPS are planned, for sure.

Water level is about 1" under the top of the glass, so call it 10" of water depth, or about 8.5" down to the sand. The light is 9.5" above the water surface.

Per the BRS video mounting height results fro the 12" cube and 18" cube, I split the difference since my tank is roughly the same depth as the 12", but wider, so I went with a 9.5" mounting height. This is also the max height for the Prime fixed arm mount, so it's easier to stick it there. I also made sure to center the light over the display area, rather than the center of the whole tank.

For light settings, I followed their recommendations for spectrum, below. I may turn this a bit more blue, but leaving it for now.

Finally, for power levels, since their tests show running the Prime 16HD at the 90% settings above yield almost entirely SPS PAR levels (200+) in a 12x12" cube, I decided that 70% power over my 12" deep x 16" wide x 11" tall display area would provide SPS levels of PAR in the middle, with PAR levels dropping quickly to LPS levels outside of the shallow middle.

Does that logic make sense?

Below are my settings. 12 hour and 30 minute schedule. Whiter ramp up in the morning from 10AM-2PM, BRS settings during peak daytime from 2PM-6PM, then a ramp down from 6PM-10:30PM, with a steep drop off in white so the evening has a blue tint for colorful viewing.

Any critiques or thoughts on my schedule or settings?

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

IMO, should not have the lights above 100%, do a google search on AI Prime melted lens, it seems to be a frequent issue with primes when set at highest settings. My prime is 4 years old at 80% over a 16" depth tank. I think you have the lights set way too high, I would probably start at about 70% on your 10" depth tank ad adjust later. I would also give a longer peak. My lights are 12 hours with 1 hour ramp up and down, so 10 hours at peak.

 

[TheNative192]

I am a bit overwhelmed with the customizability of the AI Prime, so I wanted to run my settings past the forum here to see if my thought process makes sense. Unfortunately I don't have access to a PAR meter, so I am turning to the group to make sure my logic is sound. I also am not on Facebook, so while I know there is an active AI Prime group there, I can't access it.

First, I watched this video.

I have a Reef Casa Studio 12 AIO. Display area is 11" tall, 16" wide, and about 12" deep.

I am looking for a mixed reef, SPS centered up top, zoas and LPS lower. Mainly zoas and LPS, but some SPS are planned, for sure.

Water level is about 1" under the top of the glass, so call it 10" of water depth, or about 8.5" down to the sand. The light is 9.5" above the water surface.

Per the BRS video mounting height results fro the 12" cube and 18" cube, I split the difference since my tank is roughly the same depth as the 12", but wider, so I went with a 9.5" mounting height. This is also the max height for the Prime fixed arm mount, so it's easier to stick it there. I also made sure to center the light over the display area, rather than the center of the whole tank.

For light settings, I followed their recommendations for spectrum, below. I may turn this a bit more blue, but leaving it for now.

Finally, for power levels, since their tests show running the Prime 16HD at the 90% settings above yield almost entirely SPS PAR levels (200+) in a 12x12" cube, I decided that 70% power over my 12" deep x 16" wide x 11" tall display area would provide SPS levels of PAR in the middle, with PAR levels dropping quickly to LPS levels outside of the shallow middle.

Does that logic make sense?

Below are my settings. 12 hour and 30 minute schedule. Whiter ramp up in the morning from 10AM-2PM, BRS settings during peak daytime from 2PM-6PM, then a ramp down from 6PM-10:30PM, with a steep drop off in white so the evening has a blue tint for colorful viewing.

Any critiques or thoughts on my schedule or settings?

The truth is with the AI Prime you will deal with a melted lens a lot quicker than it can safely hold SPS corals even at the top of the water. If you are trying to keep SPS you may have to lower the light a lot but then be aware you will get a major hotspot in the middle. UV & V tend to melt first so you should aim for those to be lower than RY & B. I would honestly say this like is more tailored for LPS. At 10 inch mounting height at peak I run 73%UV 67%V 81%RY 76%B 11%G 9%DR 16%CW and I get around 150 par around 4 inches below the water level including factoring in the lid as well. 6-10 inches I get around 100 to 80 surrounding the center area.

I put UV & V, B & RY blue to around 100% and my lens melted in 3 months so it does seem like they are not designed for full intensity. It was mostly the UV & V lens but I feel like I am even pushing it with 73% UV and 67%V

 

[shimps1]

IMO, should not have the lights above 100%, do a google search on AI Prime melted lens, it seems to be a frequent issue with primes when set at highest settings. My prime is 4 years old at 80% over a 16" depth tank. I think you have the lights set way too high, I would probably start at about 70% on your 10" depth tank ad adjust later. I would also give a longer peak. My lights are 12 hours with 1 hour ramp up and down, so 10 hours at peak.

The truth is with the AI Prime you will deal with a melted lens a lot quicker than it can safely hold SPS corals even at the top of the water. If you are trying to keep SPS you may have to lower the light a lot but then be aware you will get a major hotspot in the middle. UV & V tend to melt first so you should aim for those to be lower than RY & B. I would honestly say this like is more tailored for LPS. At 10 inch mounting height at peak I run 73%UV 67%V 81%RY 76%B 11%G 9%DR 16%CW and I get around 150 par around 4 inches below the water level including factoring in the lid as well. 6-10 inches I get around 100 to 80 surrounding the center area.

I put UV & V, B & RY blue to around 100% and my lens melted in 3 months so it does seem like they are not designed for full intensity. It was mostly the UV & V lens but I feel like I am even pushing it with 73% UV and 67%V

Interesting info, didn't know about lense melting issues. I lowered my settings to 60% of the BRS settings, which runs the UV and V at 100%, and the other levels much lower, to try to preserve the lense. I'll see how the corals look at those settings and go from there.

 

[TheNative192]

Interesting info, didn't know about lense melting issues. I lowered my settings to 60% of the BRS settings, which runs the UV and V at 100%, and the other levels much lower, to try to preserve the lense. I'll see how the corals look at those settings and go from there.

I would say I would flip them. Corals will appreciate the B & RB just as much as the UV and V and for some reason the lens melts much faster with the UV and V lights. Up to you of course. Lots of people in AI prime light Facebook groups all have the same experience.

 

[shimps1]

I would say I would flip them. Corals will appreciate the B & RB just as much as the UV and V and for some reason the lens melts much faster with the UV and V lights. Up to you of course. Lots of people in AI prime light Facebook groups all have the same experience.

Will do, good info. Thank you!