Hello! Bob in Ann Arbor

rmccurrach1 · Jan 16, 2020

Hi! I'm a new member and wanted to introduce myself. While I'm a freshwater/planted tank guy, I"m jumping into a sump setup for the first time and wanted to get some advice/feedback from the experts. I might graduate to saltwater some day, but I need more stripes first.

I've gotten sick of canisters that are finicky on start-up and have poor flow. I bought an almost complete setup from a guy who was a first timer as well, who for medical reasons needed to sell. 90 gallon DT, 40 gallon sump, 1600 gph simplicity dc pump. DT drilled 4" from each end, 3" down from trim. 1" pump return with 3/4" locline (y'ed to 2 spray nozzles), 2" drain with just a strainer on it. I filled it and ran for a bit (without strainer since no fish) and there were some obvious start up issues that I am looking for advice on. I've read a lot but haven't stumbled on answers so apologize if there are already answers out there. Pictures attached:

1. Drain line - Any way to quiet this down? If I keep, would try an upturned 90 with some sort of 4" diameter, overflow rig. I've searched for ways to quiet down, but have pretty much decided that going with an exotic marine 20" in center (drill 2 new holes) and using the 2 existing holes for locline, splitting the return pump plumbing. Of course if there is a way to make the current setup "good" I'd reconsider this. Not crazy for $200 "fix"...but I do see the benefits of better skimming.

2. Sump design - He had used acrylic baffles in glass sump and 1 let loose. Have easily removed the rest and trying to source 1/4" glass. Local shops are quoting $15/ft^2 which puts me up over $100 so I've been trying to craigslist used tanks to disassemble. Petco is having their $/gallon, so a $50 - 40 gallon breeder sounds good. Couldn't find glass thickness so called Aqueon, they verified 1/4" (bottom 5/16") but couldn't guarantee un-tempered glass due to Glass market" conditions so it seems a crap shoot unless I show up with my polarized glasses. Bought a craigslist 80 gallon, successfully dismantled, and noticed a sticker on the bottom trim piece "Tempered glass. Do not drill!" Sort of deflating but at least they had a sticker! So both buying new and buying used seems risky, with only the expensive glass shop an avenue? I'm blue in the face reading about "how I went to home depot and $20 later have my baffles!"

3. Sump design 2 -
a) In drain chamber is there a down side to having mechanical and then a flow under? Most I've seen start flowing over and then a mechanical chamber. Seems like a waste of space to me?
b) Does my flow path logic make sense (i.e will the dang thing work?)
c) Believe I have about 6 gallons of empty space for safety when /if pump fails/power outage. Is this excessive?
d)I've assumed want 2" minimum between baffles and 2" underneath flow-unders for cleaning, fish extraction, flow. Is this necesssary?
e) Baffles 5,6 and 7 are intended to be bubble walls. Do I need these?

4. Lastly (sorry for long post), I really want a 3D background, but am not in love with $350 price tag from aquadecor and others. Any advice whether there are any feasible, good looking DIY videos out there or other products that are more reasonably priced that look good?

Thanks for any advice that you give! Bob in Ann Arbor.

Crabs McJones · Jan 16, 2020

Welcome to R2R!

BeejReef · Jan 16, 2020

Plenty of stripes already!

You're only a bucket of salt and a clownfish away ;Shamefullyembarrased

Welcome regardless, we'll keep after you.

People often will avoid having their heater in the same section as the return pump. It's the only section of the sump that can potentially run dry and melt your heater. Also think you're on the right track in regards to beefing up your overflow with at least one more bulkhead. W a single drain, it's very difficult to get it to run quiet and there's the obv reliability and safety concerns.