I have a 60 gallon salt water set up. It has been up and running for about 3 months now. I have a lion fish a saddle wrasse a very small panther grouper and a couple damsel dominos that were my starter fish. I had a porcupine puffer that died this morning wrasse is not looking hot either. I did a water change on the tank yesterday. I took out 7 gallons and replaced it with water from my local fish store. I had my water tested yesterday and everything except my ph looked good it was low but was told the water change should fix that. I added the correct amount of bacteria with my water change and added some buffer today just in case the ph was not raised. I don't know what else to do any advice would be a blessing!
Help dying fish!
- Thread starter wmbonds
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Naiad
Valuable Member
That panther is a cutie! Right now everyone is on the small side so your ok there. I do see algea so either your nitrate or phosphate is likely high. Not a reason for fish death but a good reason to know actual numbers. Did anything look off about the puffer before he died or anything strange on the body?
As for the numbers I'm not sure where they are sitting at now I do know the fish store did not use test strips to test the water if that makes any bit of difference this is a good learning experience for me though so any info is great thankyou
Naiad
Valuable Member
Freshwater
Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat
Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up. Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there.
Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects
Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat
Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up. Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there.
Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects
Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
I think your tank doesn't has ENOUGH AIR. You don't need cover your lid, LED light can hang up the tank about 5 to 10 inches by hanger. are you still using canister filter? If yes, then you need remove it out or you HAVE TO clean every day as needed. That is using for freshwater only. You need move your wavemaker up until you can see the water flow on the surface, that wave on surface create the air for saltwater tank. I expect all parameter for saltwater are perfect so only that issue need to be fix.
If your fishes already in your tank for awhile then NO NEED freshwater dip if you don't see parasite on the fishes, don't make them stress without the reason. Keep close watching and figure out WHY ARE THEY DIE????? Heat increase cause bad ??? Not enough air??? ammonia, nitrate too high? Ph too low? just do a test and keep watching them and try adjust as my comment above first before any else.
Bottom line is there are so many things that could be wrong here. For starters, that is a lot of fish for such a young tank. I'm wondering if you have enough established bacteria to deal with that bio-load without seeing an occasional ammonia spike. Also, do you have a glass or plastic lid over the aquarium? I can't tell for sure. If so, you need to remove it to allow oxygen into the water.
[HASHTAG]#reefsquad[/HASHTAG]
[HASHTAG]#reefsquad[/HASHTAG]
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