Help Frogspawn Problem I think!

reeferfoxx

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Instead of getting that why didn't you get the lighting I have?
Honestly, I never ran across your light. I was on the hunt for a WIFI connected light that I could program for ramping up and down. The ramping is more of an aesthetics perspective, no scientific evidence that it benefits growth. In fact, I might just go back to on/off operation if this tank doesn't ooze with color in the next year. ;)
 

reeferfoxx

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I can't tell if my frogspawn is progressing or not :-|
I know. It's hard to speed up nature. Might need to wait a couple weeks. How are your parameters looking?
 

reeferfoxx

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Alk 8.7
Calc:400
Mag:1240
Woah! :eek: That's a big jump from yesterday? Try not to go overboard with alkalinity. Levels really depend on nutrients. But you're headedin the right direction. :)
 
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TimReef

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Woah! :eek: That's a big jump from yesterday? Try not to go overboard with alkalinity. Levels really depend on nutrients. But you're headedin the right direction. :)
Not yesterday. It was Saturday 3/17 when I took the testing and I related to you the next day.
 

reeferfoxx

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The numbers I gave you today was the test kit today I took.
Gotcha! Try not to go any higher on that alk. That is one of the most imprtant numbers in a reef. Magnesium is important to LPS as well.
 
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TimReef

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Okay great! how do I keep that stable?
And with water changes that will go down as well right? Because I think I have a water change this weekend
 

taintstick

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Just to chime in, on params I absolutely agree need to be stable for proper color/growth. There was a few month period where I didn't test. Finally I did just out of curiosity because colors were not as vibrant as they should be, but grew like algae. From frags to colonies in a few months. My alk was about a 11.4 and calcium was at 600. Mag at around 1500-1600. Growth great but color not the best. Dropped nutrients too fast and montis had issues. Since, params have been stable under proper levels and color came back. Growth slowed down a bit. Was dosing reef code A and B.
Please don't get me wrong, keep your levels lower than that, I was just lucky I had a somewhat positive experience with that.
 

reeferfoxx

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Okay great! how do I keep that stable?
And with water changes that will go down as well right? Because I think I have a water change this weekend
Start with getting proper test kits. Doing that assures consistent tests.
  • Test your Nitrates and Phosphates. Set a goal. Mark target parameters. Go with that. Example.. NO3 5-10 & PO4 0.01-0.04 = Alk 7 - 8.5dkh ---- NO3 10-20 & PO4 0.05-0.1 = Alk 9dkh - 12dkh(if you lose no3 or po4 and need to drop alk, allow alk to drop VERY SLOWLY). If you have low nutrients and high alk, bleaching can occur. If you have high nutrients and low alk, browning can occur. You can increase no3 and po4 yourself but most times its present from feeding or rock/sandbed leaching nutrients.
  • Begin testing all mixed batches of saltwater for water changes. You need to do this for every water change. Why? Because, salt can settle in mysterious ways. Causing things to separate and mix up. Sometimes having more mag or alk in different areas of the dry salt box/bucket.
  • Match fresh mixed salt (for water changes) to tanks alkalinity. If by chance fresh mixed salt has higher alkalinity, do some math, cut water change to a smaller amount, or purchase a lower alk salt mix.
  • Daily alkalinity testing morning and night for 2 weeks can give you a good idea of consumption. If you start adding more coral or if they grow to larger colonies later on, begin testing again. Dose accordingly.
Most important test for water changes is alkalinity. However if you are having fluctuating magnesium in DT or display tank, then incorp. mag testing to that water change regimen.

Keep doing research. All your answers are here in the forums :)
 
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TimReef

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Start with getting proper test kits. Doing that assures consistent tests.
  • Test your Nitrates and Phosphates. Set a goal. Mark target parameters. Go with that. Example.. NO3 5-10 & PO4 0.01-0.04 = Alk 7 - 8.5dkh ---- NO3 10-20 & PO4 0.05-0.1 = Alk 9dkh - 12dkh(if you lose no3 or po4 and need to drop alk, allow alk to drop VERY SLOWLY). If you have low nutrients and high alk, bleaching can occur. If you have high nutrients and low alk, browning can occur. You can increase no3 and po4 yourself but most times its present from feeding or rock/sandbed leaching nutrients.
  • Begin testing all mixed batches of saltwater for water changes. You need to do this for every water change. Why? Because, salt can settle in mysterious ways. Causing things to separate and mix up. Sometimes having more mag or alk in different areas of the dry salt box/bucket.
  • Match fresh mixed salt (for water changes) to tanks alkalinity. If by chance fresh mixed salt has higher alkalinity, do some math, cut water change to a smaller amount, or purchase a lower alk salt mix.
  • Daily alkalinity testing morning and night for 2 weeks can give you a good idea of consumption. If you start adding more coral or if they grow to larger colonies later on, begin testing again. Dose accordingly.
Most important test for water changes is alkalinity. However if you are having fluctuating magnesium in DT or display tank, then incorp. mag testing to that water change regimen.

Keep doing research. All your answers are here in the forums :)

Well. Here are the updates. My frogspawn looks great growing rapidly and expanding
I tested my water and its been three days since my last test.

(Today's)
Alk 8.4
Calc:390
Mag:1400.



On 3/20

Mag: 1240 might
Alk:8.7
Calc:400
 

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