Help needed, losing corals fast!

Freenow54

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That's why I put a net over my pond in the fall, same reason I monitor the inputs into my aquarium. :)
Same here took a few try's but finally put chicken wire on my frame, as the netting was trapping baby birds, and I had to cut them out. I cannot remove my cover until all the friggen cranes, and herons finish migrating or they eat my fish. I live on the north shore of lake Erie
 

Bleakborn

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looking at your build thread It looks like your tank is on an outside wall next to a window and that you are in Minneapolis, I wonder if you might be having temperature issues... If that wall gets a lot of sun maybe you had a temp spike or maybe that window is a little drafty.

It also looks like the Aquarium controller is in the basement in the sump so you might not be getting the best readings on temp unless you have a lot of turnover.
 
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Morpheosz

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Impressive research my friend and I very much appreciate the effort!

My office where my tank is very consistent temp wise and I do have good turnover, 5x per hour. I have dual heaters for redundancy and my temp has been very stable +/- .5 degrees.
 

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Thanks for sharing your perspective. Based on my extensive research and years of experience, I would say that your opinion on livestock is on the very conservative side. I don't think most people would think that having 5 fish in a 125 is pushing it. I also don't think it's a correct assessment to say that I've added a whole reef of corals. All the frags I've added total the biomass of maybe 1 full grown coral colony... maybe. I really don't think I'm pushing the biological filtration capabilities.

In my 3 decades of aquarium and pond experience, I've come to understand the exponential growth of bacteria. Once you have an established colony, it can scale up quickly. I believe "beneficial bacteria" additives are largely snake oil / money makers for established tanks. For example, my pond store tries to tell me I need to add "beneficial bacteria" to my pond weekly which is nuts. I asked them why when bacteria gets established everywhere and that I've kept aquariums for years and never had to keep adding more "beneficial bacteria" to which they said "well a pond is totally different, when it rains everything can change and / or wash out". Unscientific crazy talk to sell unnecessary product. Sad thing is I think she believed the marketing from the manufacturer.

I started the tank with about 10-15lbs of live rock from my year old nano tank, plus I used Ocean Direct sand. I also started the refugium with a ball of chaeto about 2 weeks in and added a pod mix. I added Microbacter because I had it on hand but don't really think it was necessary. Lastly I added 2 bottles of the coralline starter from algae barn. I don't think it's fair to characterize the tank as completely new needing some extended cycling in the traditional sense, more I just gave an already functioning biome more room to grow.

In addition to that I have tested pH, Alk, PO4 almost daily, and nitrates, calcium, and magnesium 1-2x / week. I have dosed to keep alkalinity almost perfectly consistent at 8.0, and phosphates and nitrates to keep them in an acceptably low but detectable range. I have had no ugly stage and the fish, most corals and coralline have thrived.
Appreciate the feedback and appreciate the good conversation. When I stated I was pushing it with 5 fish in a 125, it's because of the total bioload in my system. On top of the fish. I have a pretty large collection of corals. When i cycled my 125. I took all the rock from my 70 gallon and put it in the 125. The 70 gallon was a mixed reef heavy on the sps side. I sold all of my sps except for the purple stylophora.
Thanks for sharing your perspective. Based on my extensive research and years of experience, I would say that your opinion on livestock is on the very conservative side. I don't think most people would think that having 5 fish in a 125 is pushing it. I also don't think it's a correct assessment to say that I've added a whole reef of corals. All the frags I've added total the biomass of maybe 1 full grown coral colony... maybe. I really don't think I'm pushing the biological filtration capabilities.

In my 3 decades of aquarium and pond experience, I've come to understand the exponential growth of bacteria. Once you have an established colony, it can scale up quickly. I believe "beneficial bacteria" additives are largely snake oil / money makers for established tanks. For example, my pond store tries to tell me I need to add "beneficial bacteria" to my pond weekly which is nuts. I asked them why when bacteria gets established everywhere and that I've kept aquariums for years and never had to keep adding more "beneficial bacteria" to which they said "well a pond is totally different, when it rains everything can change and / or wash out". Unscientific crazy talk to sell unnecessary product. Sad thing is I think she believed the marketing from the manufacturer.

I started the tank with about 10-15lbs of live rock from my year old nano tank, plus I used Ocean Direct sand. I also started the refugium with a ball of chaeto about 2 weeks in and added a pod mix. I added Microbacter because I had it on hand but don't really think it was necessary. Lastly I added 2 bottles of the coralline starter from algae barn. I don't think it's fair to characterize the tank as completely new needing some extended cycling in the traditional sense, more I just gave an already functioning biome more room to grow.

In addition to that I have tested pH, Alk, PO4 almost daily, and nitrates, calcium, and magnesium 1-2x / week. I have dosed to keep alkalinity almost perfectly consistent at 8.0, and phosphates and nitrates to keep them in an acceptably low but detectable range. I have had no ugly stage and the fish, most corals and coralline have thrived.
I get what you are saying, but you came here asking for help. If your water chemistry is good, then it's either too much too fast, too much light, too much/little flow, or temperature. In my head I knocked off the temp, flow, and light issues. They are easy to spot. To me, there is no other conclusion than juvenile tank syndrome. Unless you have a fish in there eating corals.
 
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Morpheosz

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Appreciate the feedback and appreciate the good conversation. When I stated I was pushing it with 5 fish in a 125, it's because of the total bioload in my system. On top of the fish. I have a pretty large collection of corals. When i cycled my 125. I took all the rock from my 70 gallon and put it in the 125. The 70 gallon was a mixed reef heavy on the sps side. I sold all of my sps except for the purple stylophora.

I get what you are saying, but you came here asking for help. If your water chemistry is good, then it's either too much too fast, too much light, too much/little flow, or temperature. In my head I knocked off the temp, flow, and light issues. They are easy to spot. To me, there is no other conclusion than juvenile tank syndrome. Unless you have a fish in there eating corals.
Infection seems a likely hypothesis at this point based on the conversation and the other thread I found with nearly identical pics of tissue recession. It could explain why many corals are thriving but a few are not. Most other issues would be affecting the whole tank or at least more of the tank.

At this point the issue may have just about run its course as over the course of this week long conversation, I've cleared out the dead frags and there are only 1 stylo, 1 birds nest, and an acro that still are showing signs of tissue damage but even they don't necessarily seem to be progressing anymore and literally everything else in the tank looks very healthy. A few of my LPS look bigger than ever, and I have 2 acro frags that are actually showing some nice polyp extension as well now.

I'm going to give the cipro a try when it arrives as it seems like very low risk, potentially high reward based on other accounts of what seems like a nearly identical problem that folks guided me to here over the past few days through this conversation. I'll report back to close the loop with everyone that has graciously offered their time and energy to help me think through this.
 
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Appreciate the feedback and appreciate the good conversation. When I stated I was pushing it with 5 fish in a 125, it's because of the total bioload in my system. On top of the fish. I have a pretty large collection of corals. When i cycled my 125. I took all the rock from my 70 gallon and put it in the 125. The 70 gallon was a mixed reef heavy on the sps side. I sold all of my sps except for the purple stylophora.
In my experience over the past year, I find that corals are a nutrient sink more than adding to the max bioload you can support. The more thriving corals I've had the less nutrients I have to export. Right now, with my dozen fish and 40ish coral frags, I am feeding 5x per day on an autofeeder (for the chromis, wrasse, anthia), once per day some frozen mysis or nori, once per day phyto, and broadcast feeding reef roids or reef chili every other day. With all that going in, I still have to dose 5-10ml of Neophos every day, and occasionally nitrates to keep my numbers from bottoming out. I also have to keep my refugium light dialed way down.
 

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Infection seems a likely hypothesis at this point based on the conversation and the other thread I found with nearly identical pics of tissue recession. It could explain why many corals are thriving but a few are not. Mobe affecting the whole tank or at least more of the tank.
I agree. I have always wondered if Immature tank syndrome was just another way of saying that, among other things, maybe older tanks develop a biome that is more robust in handling infection when it happens.

Another controversial topic on this is use of UV. I have a 220 g tank that struggled early on with similar issues, and at some point along the way I added a 120w UV. I did see improvement. How much of that was due to the UV, time, gained experience/expertise, etc, I don’t really know. But the UV has been running for at least 5 years now, all good.

You’re a pond guy, well researched, etc. so I am sure you’re familiar with UV …
 
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I agree. I have always wondered if Immature tank syndrome was just another way of saying that, among other things, maybe older tanks develop a biome that is more robust in handling infection when it happens.

Another controversial topic on this is use of UV. I have a 220 g tank that struggled early on with similar issues, and at some point along the way I added a 120w UV. I did see improvement. How much of that was due to the UV, time, gained experience/expertise, etc, I don’t really know. But the UV has been running for at least 5 years now, all good.

You’re a pond guy, well researched, etc. so I am sure you’re familiar with UV …

I have UV on this tank as well. I didn't want to deep dive this as I didn't think it relevant to my coral issue, but I did add UV as I did get some ich in the tank as I screwed up on quarantine. I quarantine every fish I added but I didn't quarantine the first batch erroneously thinking that there was no one in there to infect. What I didn't realize is I was adding ich into the display tank in spite of otherwise healthy looking fish. When my tang was finally added he developed ich. I am unable to pull everyone out of the tank so I added UV and so far it seems to have kept things at bay.
 

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In my experience over the past year, I find that corals are a nutrient sink more than adding to the max bioload you can support. The more thriving corals I've had the less nutrients I have to export. Right now, with my dozen fish and 40ish coral frags, I am feeding 5x per day on an autofeeder (for the chromis, wrasse, anthia), once per day some frozen mysis or nori, once per day phyto, and broadcast feeding reef roids or reef chili every other day. With all that going in, I still have to dose 5-10ml of Neophos every day, and occasionally nitrates to keep my numbers from bottoming out. I also have to keep my refugium light dialed way down.
How are you feeding the reef roids? That stuff is super dirty. I am surprised that you are not high on nitrate and phosphate based on the feeding schedule alone. I guess your refugium is worth its eight in gold lol.
 

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In my experience over the past year, I find that corals are a nutrient sink more than adding to the max bioload you can support. The more thriving corals I've had the less nutrients I have to export. Right now, with my dozen fish and 40ish coral frags, I am feeding 5x per day on an autofeeder (for the chromis, wrasse, anthia), once per day some frozen mysis or nori, once per day phyto, and broadcast feeding reef roids or reef chili every other day. With all that going in, I still have to dose 5-10ml of Neophos every day, and occasionally nitrates to keep my numbers from bottoming out. I also have to keep my refugium light dialed way down.
Are you dosing magnesium?
 

MaxTremors

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Thanks for sharing your perspective. Based on my extensive research and years of experience, I would say that your opinion on livestock is on the very conservative side. I don't think most people would think that having 5 fish in a 125 is pushing it. I also don't think it's a correct assessment to say that I've added a whole reef of corals. All the frags I've added total the biomass of maybe 1 full grown coral colony... maybe. I really don't think I'm pushing the biological filtration capabilities.

In my 3 decades of aquarium and pond experience, I've come to understand the exponential growth of bacteria. Once you have an established colony, it can scale up quickly. I believe "beneficial bacteria" additives are largely snake oil / money makers for established tanks. For example, my pond store tries to tell me I need to add "beneficial bacteria" to my pond weekly which is nuts. I asked them why when bacteria gets established everywhere and that I've kept aquariums for years and never had to keep adding more "beneficial bacteria" to which they said "well a pond is totally different, when it rains everything can change and / or wash out". Unscientific crazy talk to sell unnecessary product. Sad thing is I think she believed the marketing from the manufacturer.

I started the tank with about 10-15lbs of live rock from my year old nano tank, plus I used Ocean Direct sand. I also started the refugium with a ball of chaeto about 2 weeks in and added a pod mix. I added Microbacter because I had it on hand but don't really think it was necessary. Lastly I added 2 bottles of the coralline starter from algae barn. I don't think it's fair to characterize the tank as completely new needing some extended cycling in the traditional sense, more I just gave an already functioning biome more room to grow.

In addition to that I have tested pH, Alk, PO4 almost daily, and nitrates, calcium, and magnesium 1-2x / week. I have dosed to keep alkalinity almost perfectly consistent at 8.0, and phosphates and nitrates to keep them in an acceptably low but detectable range. I have had no ugly stage and the fish, most corals and coralline have thrived.
Again, I think you’re conflating two different issues. I agree with you that bottled bacteria is unnecessary for a established/cycled tank/pond. But there is a difference between the establishment of nitrifying bacteria and the biome of a mature reef tank. It is not just nitrifying bacteria and the main 7-8 parameters being stable that is needed for many marine animals to thrive in a reef tank. It’s not completely understood and it’s not something you can really test for, but it’s virtually impossible for a three month old tank, even when seeded with established live rock, to have a balanced and mature biome. In an immature tank there are hundreds, if not thousands of species of bacteria fighting it out for real estate and for resources, its a volatile environment, it takes time for the biome to reach equilibrium. Your tank will go through several phases where one species or type of bacteria/microfauna dominates and is then out-competed before the tank reaches a point where there is a balanced and stable biome/food chain/ecosystem.

Many corals will do just fine in an immature aquarium, but there are just as many that won’t. Even individual specimens from the same species or genus can do poorly in immature tanks while other individuals seem to do fine. I know that you want to want to be able to pinpoint some specific cause other than that your tank just isn’t mature, I realize it’s frustrating to hear that, but that’s just the likely reality of what you’re experiencing.

I do think your tank is probably close to overstocked fish-wise, corals don’t really add to the bio-load in terms of processing ammonia/nitrification, if anything they offset it. I wouldn’t be worried about your tank not being able to process the ammonia that 12 fish will produce, the issue is there may not be enough room/territory for 12 fish to live peacefully/comfortably in a 75g. But, it also depends on the species and how big they are.

Again, I think you’re not fully grasping the complexity of a reef tank, no amount of experience, research, water testing, or dosing of products is going to mature your tank in 3 months, you just have to let it do it’s thing.
 
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Morpheosz

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Again, I think you’re conflating two different issues. I agree with you that bottled bacteria is unnecessary for a established/cycled tank/pond. But there is a difference between the establishment of nitrifying bacteria and the biome of a mature reef tank. It is not just nitrifying bacteria and the main 7-8 parameters being stable that is needed for many marine animals to thrive in a reef tank. It’s not completely understood and it’s not something you can really test for, but it’s virtually impossible for a three month old tank, even when seeded with established live rock, to have a balanced and mature biome. In an immature tank there are hundreds, if not thousands of species of bacteria fighting it out for real estate and for resources, its a volatile environment, it takes time for the biome to reach equilibrium. Your tank will go through several phases where one species or type of bacteria/microfauna dominates and is then out-competed before the tank reaches a point where there is a balanced and stable biome/food chain/ecosystem.

Many corals will do just fine in an immature aquarium, but there are just as many that won’t. Even individual specimens from the same species or genus can do poorly in immature tanks while other individuals seem to do fine. I know that you want to want to be able to pinpoint some specific cause other than that your tank just isn’t mature, I realize it’s frustrating to hear that, but that’s just the likely reality of what you’re experiencing.

I do think your tank is probably close to overstocked fish-wise, corals don’t really add to the bio-load in terms of processing ammonia/nitrification, if anything they offset it. I wouldn’t be worried about your tank not being able to process the ammonia that 12 fish will produce, the issue is there may not be enough room/territory for 12 fish to live peacefully/comfortably in a 75g. But, it also depends on the species and how big they are.

Again, I think you’re not fully grasping the complexity of a reef tank, no amount of experience, research, water testing, or dosing of products is going to mature your tank in 3 months, you just have to let it do it’s thing.
Hey thanks for your thoughts. I assure you I do fully grasp that complexity. The previous poster's comments were really talking about bioload which is directly referring to nitrifying bacteria. I was responding to the previous poster's notion that the bioload of my dozen very small fish and corals was too much or that 5 fish was pushing it for his 125. To me comments like that are explicitly speaking to nitrifying bacteria populations keeping up with the nutrient load, not the overall diversity / balance of biome in a system. I do think my tank is largely complete fish-wise, but they are mostly small and all peaceful. 5 of the 12 is a school of green chromis, for example, 2 are peaceful timid firefish. I might add one or two small goby type fish but probably not much more. All of this is likely irrelevant to sudden tissue loss in certain corals.

I do politely challenge the notion that there are no circumstances where a new tank could have a diverse biome over the first few months. BRS has just wrapped up an experiment to gather empirical evidence around just that topic (link below). I was setting up my tank as that was going on and used some of the techniques that were showing the most diverse biome - Ocean direct sand, established live rock, and coral. You suggest that it doesn't matter that I moved 15lbs of well established rock, I think it matters very much. There is a point where it does make a difference as if you move everything from a fully established tank to another, you're going to still have a fully established tank in short order. I also think that testing methodologies are being developed and used (e.g. Aquabiomics) so I don't think it's fair to say biome maturity / diversity is unknowable, untestable as it is quickly becoming just that. To that end, I've ordered an Aquabiomics test to help put this debate to rest on my tank as well or prove everyone right that my tank has maturing to do. I realize this is a quickly evolving area of the science of our tanks, but I prefer to keep working to make things knowable vs continuing to suggest that all tanks are unable to support corals for, according to at least one post in this thread, up to a year.

I started my tank with some live rock, Ocean direct sand, and corals - all 3 of which scored in their top 4 for diverse biome after 1 month, those 3 tanks scoring in the 70-80+ percentile. I combined all 3 in my approach so I hypothesize that if my results follow, and my tank is 3 months further down the road, that I should have a solidly diverse biome. As I mentioned, I ordered my own test to see if that hypothesis pans out - stay tuned.

As I have stipulated previously in this thread, I totally understand that newer tanks suffer a myriad of challenges for a myriad of reasons. I've also demonstrated that I've avoided nearly all of those through experience, careful research, and daily attentiveness. Could there be an issue lacking in the biome that is causing this tissue necrosis in my corals, a lack of something that might offer protection, for example - sure. However, I tend to believe if that were the case, either problems would have appeared more widespread, or more gradual in nature vs just one day out of the blue a number of corals go south that were thriving. I've also been pointed to multiple instances of something nearly identical happening to well established tanks through this conversation.

Therefore, nothing is really pointing to "immature tank" as an obvious cause to me, it's a diagnosis of, at best - exclusion, at worst - convenience, that many people on this thread jumped to without exploring any other possibilities. That's where I have pushed back as it feels like punting on the real work, and quite frankly, many of the comments have been patronizing, and some people have acted like this is some justified punishment they're all too happy to let me endure for my sins of building this tank too fast.

 
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MaxTremors

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Hey thanks for your thoughts. I assure you I do fully grasp that complexity. The previous poster's comments were really talking about bioload which is directly referring to nitrifying bacteria. I was responding to the previous poster's notion that the bioload of my dozen very small fish and corals was too much or that 5 fish was pushing it for his 125. To me comments like that are explicitly speaking to nitrifying bacteria populations keeping up with the nutrient load, not the overall diversity / balance of biome in a system. I do think my tank is largely complete fish-wise, but they are mostly small and all peaceful. 5 of the 12 is a school of green chromis, for example, 2 are peaceful timid firefish. I might add one or two small goby type fish but probably not much more. All of this is likely irrelevant to sudden tissue loss in certain corals.

I do politely challenge the notion that there are no circumstances where a new tank could have a diverse biome over the first few months. BRS has just wrapped up an experiment to gather empirical evidence around just that topic (link below). I was setting up my tank as that was going on and used some of the techniques that were showing the most diverse biome - Ocean direct sand, established live rock, and coral. You suggest that it doesn't matter that I moved 15lbs of well established rock, I think it matters very much. There is a point where it does make a difference as if you move everything from a fully established tank to another, you're going to still have a fully established tank in short order. I also think that testing methodologies are being developed and used (e.g. Aquabiomics) so I don't think it's fair to say biome maturity / diversity is unknowable, untestable as it is quickly becoming just that. To that end, I've ordered an Aquabiomics test to help put this debate to rest on my tank as well or prove everyone right that my tank has maturing to do. I realize this is a quickly evolving area of the science of our tanks, but I prefer to keep working to make things knowable vs continuing to suggest that all tanks are unable to support corals for, according to at least one post in this thread, up to a year.

I started my tank with some live rock, Ocean direct sand, and corals - all 3 of which scored in their top 4 for diverse biome after 1 month, those 3 tanks scoring in the 70-80+ percentile. I combined all 3 in my approach so I hypothesize that if my results follow, and my tank is 3 months further down the road, that I should have a solidly diverse biome. As I mentioned, I ordered my own test to see if that hypothesis pans out - stay tuned.

As I have stipulated previously in this thread, I totally understand that newer tanks suffer a myriad of challenges for a myriad of reasons. I've also demonstrated that I've avoided nearly all of those through experience, careful research, and daily attentiveness. Could there be an issue lacking in the biome that is causing this tissue necrosis in my corals, a lack of something that might offer protection, for example - sure. However, I tend to believe if that were the case, either problems would have appeared more widespread, or more gradual in nature vs just one day out of the blue a number of corals go south that were thriving. I've also been pointed to multiple instances of something nearly identical happening to well established tanks through this conversation.

Therefore, nothing is really pointing to "immature tank" as an obvious cause to me, it's a diagnosis of, at best - exclusion, at worst - convenience, that many people on this thread jumped to without exploring any other possibilities. That's where I have pushed back as it feels like punting on the real work, and quite frankly, many of the comments have been patronizing, and some people have acted like this is some justified punishment they're all too happy to let me endure for my sins of building this tank too fast.

The BRS video you linked is looking at nitrifying bacteria. That is only a tiny piece of the puzzle when we are talking about the biome of a mature tank. I never said that adding live rock doesn’t help a tank mature faster, it absolutely does, but you have a bunch of dry rock that is essentially free real estate that still has to go through that maturing/balancing process, the entire tank still has to reach equilibrium, the only case when this doesn’t happen is when you transfer an entire tank without adding new rock.

No one is saying that you have to wait a year to keep corals, there are many corals that will do just fine added on day one, but there are also many species that have a tendency to not do well in immature tanks, for which waiting a year is sound advice. Corals are not a monolith, your thinking that all corals would be affected, that it would be more widespread, or that it would be a slow gradual process, is flawed. Some corals are more sensitive than others, some individuals within the same species can be more sensitive than other individuals. I think once you have more experience with corals, you’ll find that a lot of the time when corals have issues such as what you’re experiencing, they will appear healthy until they hit a breaking point and then degrade quickly, and that often the event or the cause of them doing poorly happened weeks or even months prior or has been building up for weeks or months.

And if anyone has seemed a little patronizing it’s because you’ve completely dismissed peoples advice and experience (you said you value people’s experience, but all of your other comments say otherwise). No one wants you to fail, but it’s hard to care about helping a know-it-all who isn’t open to the advice they asked for. You asked for help, people took time out of their lives to give you thoughtful advice, and because it wasn’t what you wanted to hear, you just disregarded it.

I wish you and your tank well, I hope you figure out the problem (I suspect it will iron itself out in 6-9 months), but I think I’m done.
 
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The BRS video you linked is looking at nitrifying bacteria. That is only a tiny piece of the puzzle when we are talking about the biome of a mature tank. I never said that adding live rock doesn’t help a tank mature faster, it absolutely does, but you have a bunch of dry rock that is essentially free real estate that still has to go through that maturing/balancing process, the entire tank still has to reach equilibrium, the only case when this doesn’t happen is when you transfer an entire tank without adding new rock.

No one is saying that you have to wait a year to keep corals, there are many corals that will do just fine added on day one, but there are also many species that have a tendency to not do well in immature tanks, for which waiting a year is sound advice. Corals are not a monolith, your thinking that all corals would be affected, that it would be more widespread, or that it would be a slow gradual process, is flawed. Some corals are more sensitive than others, some individuals within the same species can be more sensitive than other individuals. I think once you have more experience with corals, you’ll find that a lot of the time when corals have issues such as what you’re experiencing, they will appear healthy until they hit a breaking point and then degrade quickly, and that often the event or the cause of them doing poorly happened weeks or even months prior or has been building up for weeks or months.

And if anyone has seemed a little patronizing it’s because you’ve completely dismissed peoples advice and experience (you said you value people’s experience, but all of your other comments say otherwise). No one wants you to fail, but it’s hard to care about helping a know-it-all who isn’t open to the advice they asked for. You asked for help, people took time out of their lives to give you thoughtful advice, and because it wasn’t what you wanted to hear, you just disregarded it.

I wish you and your tank well, I hope you figure out the problem (I suspect it will iron itself out in 6-9 months), but I think I’m done.
With all due respect, that video is about biome, not nitrifying bacteria. It was literally an experiment crafted to get after the best way to establish a diverse biome in a new tank quickly. It started with this video:



"No one is saying you have to wait a year to keep corals" - post #77: "Most people do not add SPS until their system is at least 1 year old maybe even longer."

"And if anyone has seemed a little patronizing it’s because you’ve completely dismissed peoples advice and experience" - With all due respect, I think that's wildly unfair. I have gone out of my way to thank everyone who has provided their perspective and suggestions. I dismissed people that were patronizing and not offering any input on what the issue is, simply an opinion that I went too fast. It's not fair to judge me because don't respond to the opinions of those that are not interested in helping but simply interested in passing judgment often using unkind sentiments for no apparent reason other than the anonymity of the internet. I'm not sure what those people want me to say "thank you, I'm sorry I went too fast in your opinion, I'll just sit here and take my punishment for my sins"? It's not advice, it's unhelpful opinion and judgment, that's all.

You prejudged my level of experience and knowledge and made incorrect assumptions that I oversimplified what I was talking about. That doesn't make me a "know-it-all" just someone who is well researched. I'm sorry that upset you.
 

Freenow54

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You yourself said there has to be a reason. I think myself included were only suggesting different avenues for you to look at. You are there no one else. I have a bad thing happening now so I had to reason out what happened and why after 12 years with the tank. I found the reason, and am dealing with it. If I could not figure it out I would have asked for opinions. This forum is like a smorgasbord you don't have to try everything
 
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Morpheosz

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Any update on this ?
Hey thanks for asking! I was just thinking of posting a quick update. Things have stabilized at this point. In the end, I lost 7-8 SPS frags, but then the carnage seemed to end. I have 1 acro frag that still seems happy and even showing signs of growth. I did try treating with Cipro for a week but it didn't have any effect on the last few frags where the tissue was still disappearing. After the cipro treatment, I put fresh carbon in and did a 20 gallon water change (on 90G volume) and my tank really perked up. All of the rest of my coral (mostly LPS and zoas) seemed to be doing fine, but after the water change and carbon, they started looking REALLY good. I have new levels of polyp extension on them and for the past week or so that has continued. I sent away a pair of aquabiomics tests but looks like I won't get results back until May based on their batches so I'll report back on what they find.
 
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You yourself said there has to be a reason. I think myself included were only suggesting different avenues for you to look at. You are there no one else. I have a bad thing happening now so I had to reason out what happened and why after 12 years with the tank. I found the reason, and am dealing with it. If I could not figure it out I would have asked for opinions. This forum is like a smorgasbord you don't have to try everything

Yeah, totally makes sense. Unfortunately, as unsatisfying as it can be, at this point, I don't think I'll have any definitive answer unless the aquabiomics test returns something that points to an answer. I'd like more SPS but I'll go slowly and add one or two testers to see what happens and let them be for an extended period of time. With that said, I'm really happy with how the tank is going overall as it looks fantastic and the other 80-90% of the livestock is looking great. I just hate having a cloud like this hanging over the tank as it's one thing to lose a few frags, but another thing if this was to randomly happen after they'd grown out for a couple years into full colonies. As it was, a few of them had really taken off in the 2-3 months they were in there.
 

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Hi, it's great hearing your tank's getting better, well done persisting with it! It's our worst nightmare to experience something like this and I hope it doesn't re-occur again. I've only lost a single coral to RTN, it lost all its flesh in 1-week and to this day, I don't know what caused it. Nobody likes seeing their tank unhappy so I can fully understand the situation you were in.

I've found this thread an interesting read, your honesty about the issue is appreciated and I'm glad you kept active with your replies.... sometimes, certain things can wear you down.... :)
 
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Morpheosz

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Hi, it's great hearing your tank's getting better, well done persisting with it! It's our worst nightmare to experience something like this and I hope it doesn't re-occur again. I've only lost a single coral to RTN, it lost all its flesh in 1-week and to this day, I don't know what caused it. Nobody likes seeing their tank unhappy so I can fully understand the situation you were in.

I've found this thread an interesting read, your honesty about the issue is appreciated and I'm glad you kept active with your replies.... sometimes, certain things can wear you down.... :)

Hey thanks, appreciate the kind words!

To add to this story, I set this tank up with the Triton method in mind so I've only done a few small utilitarian water changes thus far (clean up detritus, etc.). I've been dosing the Core 7 elements and growing a healthy but small ball of chaeto. It's been successful from a measurable parameters perspective as I've outlined in this thread, both the management of the core params and my ICP test came back all good.

However, as part of this RTN experience, I did dose cipro for a few days, which had no impact on the remaining suffering corals. However, after that brief dosing experiment I did a 25% water change (my first significant one) and put fresh carbon in my reactor and immediately a few of my LPS that I thought were doing "fine" started looking spectacular and one hammer I had that looked like it was just hanging in there has started thriving. Additionally, I had a few acans that weren't always opening fully started opening fully and putting out their little feeder polyps. My torch coral that I thought was looking pretty darn good before is now looking huge.

Long story short, anecdotally, it seems that there might have been something more than what was measurable by ICP and normal tests going on in my tank. It's an interesting finding and gives me pause about my intended path with Triton. With this experience, I started doing weekly 10% water changes and my corals are looking fantastic. It's not a huge burden for me to do water changes as I have a mixing garbage can going 3 feet from the sump in my basement so I will likely keep this up, or perhaps go back to 2 part and repurpose one of my DOS pumps to do auto water changes.
 

Ingenuity against algae: Do you use DIY methods for controlling nuisance algae?

  • I have used DIY methods for controlling algae.

    Votes: 31 53.4%
  • I use commercial methods for controlling algae, but never DIY methods.

    Votes: 12 20.7%
  • I have not used commercial or DIY methods for controlling algae.

    Votes: 12 20.7%
  • Other.

    Votes: 3 5.2%
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