Help with sump water level

RMS18

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I upgraded to a sump 2 months ago, the upgrade was great but one issue, the water level in chamber 3 fluctuates and doesn't allow my skimmer to function properly. I have a aqueon proflex 1, my skimmer only fits in the third chamber. I have my return pull from the third chamber to the tank. Uv pulls from third chamber and feeds to third chamber. Reactor pulls from second chamber and feeds to third chamber. ATO sensor is in third chamber. I emailed bulk reef because most items came from them, they stated from my pictures shown below I need to raise my ATO feed line from the ATO pump out of the water in chamber 2. That doesn't make sense why would having that tube under water change the level in the third chamber? How do I keep the third chamber level?

Few pictures below.

0376abc78162acb961dcdecacece3a9e.jpg
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ce51f28f40048a6a8aaf45c333b2951a.jpg
 

AZDesertRat

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Do you have better pics showing all sections and the baffle heights.
Normally the only chamber that fluctuates due to evaporation is the return pump section so you place the ATO outlet in that section. The skimmer section usually remains constant as it has fixed height baffles on the ends so can't go any lower. In my sump that is the center section with a real tall baffle for a refugium on one end and the return section on the other. The display overflow drops into the center, skimmer section with a small portion diverted to the refugium via a tee and 1/2" line. The refugium overflows into the center section gets skimmed then overflows into the return section. The center is always 9" deep as that is where my skimmer works best and where I cut my baffle height to be. The return section can get down to 4-5" is I set my ATO that low but I keep it at around 6-7" so there is no water noise crashing over under and over the bubbletrap/baffles.
 

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When you say fluctuates, what is actually going on? Is it going up or down or both? The reason BRS would have suggested raising the ATO feed line higher is that if the feed line is low, you can create a siphon where the water will continue to flow into the sump when the ATO pump shuts off. The only section of the sump that can fluctuate is the return chamber.
 
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RMS18

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When you say fluctuates, what is actually going on? Is it going up or down or both? The reason BRS would have suggested raising the ATO feed line higher is that if the feed line is low, you can create a siphon where the water will continue to flow into the sump when the ATO pump shuts off. The only section of the sump that can fluctuate is the return chamber.
The return chamber is the chamber that drops in level. Then the ato kicks in. The skimmer is in thay same chamber because it wont fit in then second chamber. When the water level in the third chamber drops the skimmer does not function well until the ato kicks in which take a bit.
 
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RMS18

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Do you have better pics showing all sections and the baffle heights.
Normally the only chamber that fluctuates due to evaporation is the return pump section so you place the ATO outlet in that section. The skimmer section usually remains constant as it has fixed height baffles on the ends so can't go any lower. In my sump that is the center section with a real tall baffle for a refugium on one end and the return section on the other. The display overflow drops into the center, skimmer section with a small portion diverted to the refugium via a tee and 1/2" line. The refugium overflows into the center section gets skimmed then overflows into the return section. The center is always 9" deep as that is where my skimmer works best and where I cut my baffle height to be. The return section can get down to 4-5" is I set my ATO that low but I keep it at around 6-7" so there is no water noise crashing over under and over the bubbletrap/baffles.
My return chamber is the chamber that my skimmer sits in because it will not fit in any other chamber. That is also the chamber im reffering to. The ato sensor is also on that chamber but since the water level changes the skimmer isnt always skimming the way it should.
 

Bob Escher

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The return chamber is the chamber that drops in level. Then the ato kicks in. The skimmer is in thay same chamber because it wont fit in then second chamber. When the water level in the third chamber drops the skimmer does not function well until the ato kicks in which take a bit.
You three three sections are you using the middle as a refugium? If not can you put your skimmer in the middle section? What size tank? I would consider getting something better and return it. I have a 45 gal cube and am using a trigger sytems crystal cube that is 18 in square
 
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RMS18

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You three three sections are you using the middle as a refugium? If not can you put your skimmer in the middle section? What size tank? I would consider getting something better and return it. I have a 45 gal cube and am using a trigger sytems crystal cube that is 18 in square
Tank is only 30 gal so stand is not long enough for anything larger tham the proflex model 1. Skimmer will not fit in the middle section. Im thinking there is no fix.
 

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Can you set your ATO to come on sooner? Mine is adjustable anywhere between 1/10" and 4" so can be extremely sensitive or can drop up to 4" before it comes on. I have it set at about an inch since my skimmer is in another chamber and the return pump still has plenty of submergence.
I built my sump out of a 30 Long glass aquarium so the center section has lots of room.
 
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RMS18

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Can you set your ATO to come on sooner? Mine is adjustable anywhere between 1/10" and 4" so can be extremely sensitive or can drop up to 4" before it comes on. I have it set at about an inch since my skimmer is in another chamber and the return pump still has plenty of submergence.
I built my sump out of a 30 Long glass aquarium so the center section has lots of room.
No mine is not adjustable. What kind do you have? I have the hydor. I looked at others but didnt see any that are adjustable and small without a float switch. That would be my best option!
 

AZDesertRat

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Mine is the Spectrapure UPLC-II. It uses a digital sensor and can be set up in a very small space since the sensor is only a 1/2" clear plastic tube. It has a back up float switch if you choose to use it but in 9 years I have never needed the back up. In 9 years I have replaced exactly one silicone peristaltic tube which is a normal wear item on a peristaltic pump.

http://spectrapure.com/DOSING-TOP-O...op-Off-System-UPLC-II-Liquid-Level-Controller
http://spectrapure.com/manuals/UPLC-II-PF-REV-A.pdf
http://spectrapure.com/huds/UPLC-II-DIAGRAM.pdf
 
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RMS18

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Mine is the Spectrapure UPLC-II. It uses a digital sensor and can be set up in a very small space since the sensor is only a 1/2" clear plastic tube. It has a back up float switch if you choose to use it but in 9 years I have never needed the back up. In 9 years I have replaced exactly one silicone peristaltic tube which is a normal wear item on a peristaltic pump.

http://spectrapure.com/DOSING-TOP-O...op-Off-System-UPLC-II-Liquid-Level-Controller
http://spectrapure.com/manuals/UPLC-II-PF-REV-A.pdf
http://spectrapure.com/huds/UPLC-II-DIAGRAM.pdf
1/10 of a inch is nice! I think i might pick one up. I wish the hydor was adjustable or had a smaller gap before it would turn on.
 

Bob Escher

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Can you make one out of a ten gallon tank you ( new sump that is) you can find parts and instruction on Amazon or ebay
 

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Broadfield

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The best option is to get a skimmer that fits where it's suppose to go or a different sump(get one custom made) that has the provision for the skimmer you already have. The second best option is a better ATO like said by others. I REALLY like the Puratek Auto Level Controller. It uses a sensor that doesn't even go in the water... simply mounts to the outside of your sump. And the sensor is about the smallest thing you can imagine. It can even see through a black Brute trash can. On top of that, it has a backup timer. So you can tell it to only run for a maximum 3 minutes in a 24 hour period, just incase the sensor fails. You would roughly calculate how long your ATO needs to run in a 24 hour period to maintain water level. Then just set the time for a tad bit more. So it would take several days for the sump to overflow even if the sensor was stuck on.... maybe even weeks. If the controller ever runs for the maximum time you have set in a 24 hour period, it will emit a nasty, loud alarm tone that you cannot ignore lol. The sensor is adjustable so you can set it for very minute water fills. It also has "programmable hysteresis setting to control time delays in activating alarms or control due to water ripple or other disturbances in the water that could cause false alarms or control."
 
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