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Here it is! Fenbendazole use against hydroids

reeferKen

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"I was under the impression that you do a 1-1 ratio of mg per ml. So 250 mg of water diluted in 250 ml of tank water. Then it would be 1 mg per 1 ml. Then you figure about 1.5 ml/mg per gallon of the system. So I think you would come out around 202 ml/mg."

I needed help using milliliters not grams. as quote above, I dillute one pack of fish bendazole into a cup of 202ml of water, But what Milliliter dose would I draw into a syringe to dose into a 2 gallon quarantine tank? Thanks
 
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blitz49

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"I was under the impression that you do a 1-1 ratio of mg per ml. So 250 mg of water diluted in 250 ml of tank water. Then it would be 1 mg per 1 ml. Then you figure about 1.5 ml/mg per gallon of the system. So I think you would come out around 202 ml/mg."

I needed help using milliliters not grams. as quote above, I dillute one pack of fish bendazole into a cup of 202ml of water, But what Milliliter dose would I draw into a syringe to dose into a 2 gallon quarantine tank? Thanks
If you are trying to rid hydroids with fenbendazole, it won't work.
 

WallyB

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If you are trying to rid hydroids with fenbendazole, it won't work.
Interesting, I posted on this thread back in Early 2017 when I had a Colonial Outbreak that made me sick to my stomach. (I was obsessed with getting rid of them).

I Posted this info which shows my dosing Calculations (on my 10 Gal QT) for @reeferKen 's Question. (may help a bit).
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...-against-hydroids.214950/page-17#post-3727527

Totally forgot about this thread till this post today, because I actually forgot my Hydroids (in my Tank).

As in the post above, I did treat a few rocks in a small tank for experimental purpose. It killed the hydroids.
The rocks went back in my tank and are still there today (Hydroid Free....or Hydroids Hidden).

I NEVER TREATED MY DISPLAY TANK (2+ Years ago). It looked like this during infestation...back then.
2019-07-23_Hydroids2016.jpg


I no longer have any noticeable Hyrdoids (of course I'll probably notice them now...as I look closely). Hopefully not.
This is my tank Today...actually Last week (Same Tank, Same Rocks).

My current infestation is (the TURF Algae you see....Green Patches...Never went away since 2016).
I never found way to treat TURF...so I just prune every so often. (Not as ugly as Hydroids)

My other infestation as seen in the current Tank Photo is the Green Button Polyps (Wish I never bought the first one).....But again...I learned to live with them. Same for the Purple mushrooms, but they look nicer and I cut them and trade them in.

The point is. You have a living tank and things will grow, spread, since it's all living. SELECT WISELY, and look closely at things you put into tank (yes you won't get everything....Since I also have Aptasia (Free food for Copperband), and Bubble Algae (Free food for Emerald Crab) ).

The 2nd point is, Hydroid Infestations will go away over time (UNDER THE RIGHT CONDITIONS)....
without any treatment, or even without any manual removal.
(I still would recommend removing loose rocks and treating or Manual removal which means Carving out hydroid patches from Rock...NOT Plucking, but carving out)...Want extra Insurance (Soak the Rock in fresh water for a few weeks, and bring it back to life in your tank/sump later).

In my experience...over time... (The RIGHT CONDITIONS to "Reduce" Hydroids to an acceptable level) are actually (CONDITIONS....Opposite to what Makes Hyrdoids THRIVE).

I DRASTICALLY CUT DOWN "Broadcast Feeding" of Coral Foods (like Reef Roids, Coral Frenzy, Reef Chilli, etc)


I still feed my corals, but I target feed them, Smaller amounts, and only once every week or two.

All the best to anyone with Hydroids. HATED Them. Still do, but only when they stand out or damage corals.
So with a more mature Tank...You will grow over them, Shade them out, and they might not be an issue.

Treating a whole tank (which I decided not to do), was best decision. More damage can be done (TO YOUR WHOLE SYSTEM) by treating (I think....and damage may be worse with a more mature tank then a young tank).
 
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blitz49

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Interesting, I posted on this thread back in Early 2017 when I had a Colonial Outbreak that made me sick to my stomach. (I was obsessed with getting rid of them).

I Posted this info which shows my dosing Calculations (on my 10 Gal QT) for @reeferKen 's Question. (may help a bit).
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...-against-hydroids.214950/page-17#post-3727527

Totally forgot about this thread till this post today, because I actually forgot my Hydroids (in my Tank).

As in the post above, I did treat a few rocks in a small tank for experimental purpose. It killed the hydroids.
The rocks went back in my tank and are still there today (Hydroid Free....or Hydroids Hidden).

I NEVER TREATED MY DISPLAY TANK (2+ Years ago). It looked like this during infestation.
2019-07-23_Hydroids2016.jpg


I no longer have any noticeable Hyrdoids (of course I'll probably notice them now...as I look closely). Hopefully not.
This is my tank Today...actually Last week.

My current infestation is (the TURF Algae you see....Green Patches...Never went away since 2016).
I never found way to treat TURF...so I just prune every so often. (Not as ugly as Hydroids)

My other infestation as seen in the current Tank Photo is the Green Button Polyps (Wish I never bought the first one).....But again...I learned to live with them. Same for the Purple mushroom, but they look nicer and I cut them and trade them in.

The point is. You have a living tank and things will grow, spread, since it's all living. SELECT WISELY, and look closely at things you put into tank (yes you won't get everything....Since I also have Aptasia (Free food for Copperband), and Bubble Algae (Free food for Emerald Crab) ).

The 2nd point is, Hydroid Infestations will go away over time (UNDER THE RIGHT CONDITIONS)....
without any treatment, or even without any manual removal.
(I still would recommend removing loose rocks and treating or Manual removal which means Carving out hydroid patches from Rock...NOT Plucking, but carving out)...Want extra Insurance (Soak the Rock in fresh water for a few weeks, and bring it back to live in your tank later).

In my experience...over time... (The RIGHT CONDITIONS to "Reduce" Hydroids to an acceptable level) are actually (CONDITIONS....Opposite to what Makes Hyrdoids THRIVE).

I DRASTICALLY CUT DOWN "Broadcast Feeding" of Coral Foods (like Reef Roids, Coral Frenzy, Reef Chilli, etc)


I still feed my corals, but I target feed them, Smaller amounts, and only once every week or two.

All the best to anyone with Hydroids. HATED Them. Still do, but only when they stand out or damage corals.
So with a more mature Tank...You will grow over them, Shade them out, and they might not be an issue.

Treating a whole tank (which I decided not to do), was best decision. More damage can be done treating (I think).
Guess it depends on the type of hydroid. I posted on this thread back in 2016, and had several types of hydroids. Used fenbendazole multiple times and it worked temporarily, but kept coming back after a few months. I never broadcast feed but somehow it spreaded everywhere. Got fed up looking at it so I took out all my live stock and added bleach and one type of hydroid still came back. The white branching spikey hydroids lived through fenbendazole and bleach, so I finally broke the tank down 3 months ago to start over. I agree with what you posted, should of treated the problem rock not the tank. BTW your tank looks good!
 
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WallyB

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Guess it depends on the type of hydroid. I posted on this thread back in 2016, and had several types of hydroids. Used fenbendazole multiple times and it worked temporarily, but kept coming back after a few months. I never broadcast feed but somehow it spreaded everywhere. Got fed up looking at it so I took out all my live stock and added bleach and one type of hydroid still came back. The white branching spikey hydroids lived through fenbendazole and bleach, so I finally broke the tank down 3 months ago to start over. I agree with what you posted, should of treated the problem rock not the tank. BTW your tank looks good!
I guess I'm lucky I never got the Hydroid Type you got. My Colonial Hydroid which I thought was the worst thing in the world, maybe wasn't as bad (I still wonder why/how it went away or got under control).
I do have a 2nd 110G tank that is SPS only. Just Frags on rocks. AND one thing that I go Bezerk on if I see ONE (happened only twice) is Vermitid Snails. Hate the web they spread and sting my SPS. One killed a nicely growing monti next to his position. (At least they give away their position early, with their web beacon).
I ripped apart 1/4 of the tank to ensure I carved them out.
BTW. Thanks for the Tank Compliment.
 

blitz49

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I guess I'm lucky I never got the Hydroid Type you got. My Colonial Hydroid which I thought was the worst thing in the world, maybe wasn't as bad (I still wonder why/how it went away or got under control).
I do have a 2nd 110G tank that is SPS only. Just Frags on rocks. AND one thing that I go Bezerk on if I see ONE (happened only twice) is Vermitid Snails. Hate the web they spread and sting my SPS. One killed a nicely growing monti next to his position. (At least they give away their position early, with their web beacon).
I ripped apart 1/4 of the tank to ensure I carved them out.
BTW. Thanks for the Tank Compliment.
lol.... Vermitid snails was the other reason why decided to bleach the tank.
 

reeferKen

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"I diluted 250 mg packet into 250 ml (equivalent of 1 cup and 1 tablespoon) of tank water. I then drew up 10ml of water with a 10 ml syringe and added the water near the return spout. I did this a total of 3 times for a total of 30 ml and then dumped the rest of the solution. I should have a 30 mg dose total which equals 1.5 per 20 gallons. With live rock and knowing that biocubes tend to hold less water than listed, I felt this was a conservative but close dose for my tank."

"I was under the impression that you do a 1-1 ratio of mg per ml. So 250 mg of water diluted in 250 ml of tank water. Then it would be 1 mg per 1 ml. Then you figure about 1.5 ml/mg per gallon of the system. So I think you would come out around 202 ml/mg."

I don't have a scale or gram scoop so i'm going with the method above. I needed help using milliliters not grams. as quote above, I dillute one pack of fish bendazole into a cup of 202ml of water, But what Milliliter dose would I draw into a syringe to dose into a 2 gallon quarantine tank? Thanks
 

WallyB

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"I diluted 250 mg packet into 250 ml (equivalent of 1 cup and 1 tablespoon) of tank water. I then drew up 10ml of water with a 10 ml syringe and added the water near the return spout. I did this a total of 3 times for a total of 30 ml and then dumped the rest of the solution. I should have a 30 mg dose total which equals 1.5 per 20 gallons. With live rock and knowing that biocubes tend to hold less water than listed, I felt this was a conservative but close dose for my tank."

"I was under the impression that you do a 1-1 ratio of mg per ml. So 250 mg of water diluted in 250 ml of tank water. Then it would be 1 mg per 1 ml. Then you figure about 1.5 ml/mg per gallon of the system. So I think you would come out around 202 ml/mg."

I don't have a scale or gram scoop so i'm going with the method above. I needed help using milliliters not grams. as quote above, I dillute one pack of fish bendazole into a cup of 202ml of water, But what Milliliter dose would I draw into a syringe to dose into a 2 gallon quarantine tank? Thanks
So if I understand this correct....You want to treat a 2 Gallon Tank. (ACTUAL Water Volume in Tank is 2 Gallons).

This is the way I did things by weight, and it's my understanding (I think I got it right, since it did work for me).

Treatment says 1.5 mg for every Gallon of Tank Water. THEREFORE you need (1.5mg x 2 Gallons) = 3 mg of Pure Fenbendozole.

HERE IS BY (ml) Volume of Concentrate (you make):

If you have the Packet of "Fish Bendazole" labeled 250 mg of Pure Fenbendazole then you need by proportion 3/250 of the Packet to treat 2 Gallons. (ie every 1/250 of the packet is 1mg of the Med...plus some filler powder, since "Packet Powder) actually weights 2500mg, not 250mg)

Whatever amount of fresh water you use to MIX THE WHOLE PACKED (very VERY WELL) in doesn't really matter, so long as you add 3/250 of the liquid Med Concentrate for your 2 Gallon of QT Water.

So if you used 100ml of fresh water. Add (3/250)x(100ml) = 1.2 ml of the Mixed Concentrate to your 2 Gallon Tank. (1.2ml is tough to measure accurately...unless you have a good graduated 1ml or 2ml syringe)
If you used 200 ml of fresh water........Add (3/250)x(200ml) = 2.4 ml of the Mixed Concentrate to your 2 Gallon Tank

So let's say you have a nice 5ml or 10 ml syringe handy.....
Mix the whole packet into (400ml of Water)......
Then you will add (3/250)x(400ml) = 4.8 ml of Mixed Concentrate to your 2 Gallon Tank (so just under the 5ml syringe full) to your 2 Gallon Tank.

Don't dump the remaining concentrate. Seal it in a bottle, put in fridge... for future treatments. (Label what it is (so nobody drinks it by mistake), and it's concentration ____ mg/ml so you know how much to use next time)

Make sense?

Here is a double check on the (20 Gallon Tank/250ml Water) Example above.
20 Gallon Tank x 1.5 = 30 mg
Put into 250 ml of Water.
30/250x250=30ml of Concentrate (which equals 30mg of Febendazole Med).

You have 2 Gallon tank (1/10), so this 250ml mix, you would use 3ml. [3x250x3] (Perfect Match)
 
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debby

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So if I understand this correct....You want to treat a 2 Gallon Tank. (ACTUAL Water Volume in Tank is 2 Gallons).

This is the way I did things by weight, and it's my understanding (I think I got it right, since it did work for me).

Treatment says 1.5 mg for every Gallon of Tank Water. THEREFORE you need (1.5mg x 2 Gallons) = 3 mg of Pure Fenbendozole.

HERE IS BY (ml) Volume of Concentrate (you make):

If you have the Packet of "Fish Bendazole" labeled 250 mg of Pure Fenbendazole then you need by proportion 3/250 of the Packet to treat 2 Gallons. (ie every 1/250 of the packet is 1mg of the Med...plus some filler powder, since "Packet Powder) actually weights 2500mg, not 250mg)

Whatever amount of fresh water you use to MIX THE WHOLE PACKED (very VERY WELL) in doesn't really matter, so long as you add 3/250 of the liquid Med Concentrate for your 2 Gallon of QT Water.

So if you used 100ml of fresh water. Add (3/250)x(100ml) = 1.2 ml of the Mixed Concentrate to your 2 Gallon Tank. (1.2ml is tough to measure accurately...unless you have a good graduated 1ml or 2ml syringe)
If you used 200 ml of fresh water........Add (3/250)x(200ml) = 2.4 ml of the Mixed Concentrate to your 2 Gallon Tank

So let's say you have a nice 5ml or 10 ml syringe handy.....
Mix the whole packet into (400ml of Water)......
Then you will add (3/250)x(400ml) = 4.8 ml of Mixed Concentrate to your 2 Gallon Tank (so just under the 5ml syringe full) to your 2 Gallon Tank.

Don't dump the remaining concentrate. Seal it in a bottle, put in fridge... for future treatments. (Label what it is (so nobody drinks it by mistake), and it's concentration ____ mg/ml so you know how much to use next time)

Make sense?

Here is a double check on the (20 Gallon Tank/250ml Water) Example above.
20 Gallon Tank x 1.5 = 30 mg
Put into 250 ml of Water.
30/250x250=30ml of Concentrate (which equals 30mg of Febendazole Med).

You have 2 Gallon tank (1/10), so this 250ml mix, you would use 3ml. [3x250x3] (Perfect Match)
I have 180gallon display. How many bleeping packets will i need please?
 
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WallyB

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180 display, 40g sump
If you have a 180G DT, and a 40 G Sump. That is 220 Gal of Water Capacity.
But some of that space is filled with Equipment, rocks, etc
SO YOU NEED TO Guess a bit and subtract.

But let's go 180+40Gallon = 220 Gallons
Treatment says 1.5mg x Each DT Gallon, so 1.5x220 = 330 mg of Fenbendazole.

Each packet (the kind I had) has 250 mg of Active ingredient.
You need 1.3 Packets.

Or you can put two packets (250mg type) into 500ml of water an mix well.
Then use 330ml of the 500ml mix you made into your tank.

HOWEVER MY OPINION: Don't treat such a large system (unless you tried everything else, like removing infested rocks and treating/cleaning outside of DT)
 

Chad3407

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Treated my 625xxl last week and have not seen the first Digitate hydroids since. My tank was full of them and was killing corals. Glad I didn't wait any longer to treat the tank. This and fluconazole will always stay in my arsenal.
 

debby

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If you have a 180G DT, and a 40 G Sump. That is 220 Gal of Water Capacity.
But some of that space is filled with Equipment, rocks, etc
SO YOU NEED TO Guess a bit and subtract.

But let's go 180+40Gallon = 220 Gallons
Treatment says 1.5mg x Each DT Gallon, so 1.5x220 = 330 mg of Fenbendazole.

Each packet (the kind I had) has 250 mg of Active ingredient.
You need 1.3 Packets.

Or you can put two packets (250mg type) into 500ml of water an mix well.
Then use 330ml of the 500ml mix you made into your tank.

HOWEVER MY OPINION: Don't treat such a large system (unless you tried everything else, like removing infested rocks and treating/cleaning outside of DT)
thank you Wally. I've got no choice at this juncture. I'm going to go for it!
 
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