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thanks but that wont work on my system. these things are in my zoas on the glass in with my hammer coral(does not bother them) im telling you they are everywhere. they don't discriminate they whip around killing anything and everything they touch. so you see my problem , this is why a lynx nudibranch is so important. im told they can be found of the fla and cali coast I cant believe how hard they are to find. I would gladly pay 75.00 for one. anybody helps ill pay a finders fee. thanks for the helpHi all!
Well after getting a lot of questions about the use of fenbendazol I figured I would write this up.
This is for informational purposes and I will not be held liable for improper use.
Fenbendazol must be used exactly as I instruct or run the risk of a tank crash.
Now lets get to it!
So you may ask, what is fenbendazol.
Well it is a primary granular ingredient in Safegaurd 4.
Here is a reference picture
I use the 4 gram packets.
Now don't go out and buy it just to dump the packet in the water, that would be bad!
When you open the packet you will notice the granules. This is what I separate from the powder. That is the fenbendazol.
Now this is directed towards hydroids only in this post!
Once separated you have to crush it into a fine powder. Please wear your safety glasses
Ok now you have this powder, what needs to be done next?
ALL snails, GSP's, zenias, Gorgonias, flower pots need to be put into QT. You need to observe them for any traveling hydroids for several days.
This will not harm most all other corals. I have not tested with every coral or invert out there. Wish I could!
Next remove your carbon, slow your skimmer way down or better yet cut the air off.
You need ALL equipment, pumps, powerheads, reactors, chillers RUNNING.
Mix up the powder in 3 cups of tank water and pour it in a high flow area slowly. The goal is to keep is suspended in the water as long as possible .
Wait 24 to 30 hours, you will see them all retracted. No more than 30 hours
Add fresh new carbon, don't be skimpy on this as the carbon will help pull these dead guys bad stuff out of the water. Get that skimmer fired back up.
Do a 25% water change after the 24-30 hours.
Do 10% water changes for the next 3 days after the initial 25% change.
This is the process that works the best
Hope I answered a lot of questions
-Todd
I want to know what type of hydroids you have. there are several ones the ones I have are digita they look like little hairs with lint on them and they are single but ALLOVER!!Thank you Todd, I am looking forward to working with you and eradicating my tank of Hydroids.
Thank you!God this page is a life saver. I've been thinking of tearing down my tank and starting over
Did it work for you?God this page is a life saver. I've been thinking of tearing down my tank and starting over
Shrimp and sps safe?We used Fenbendazol for treatment of medusa hydroids all the times. They were common in tanks where you would use BBS such as breeding seahorses and for everyday feedings of dwarf seahorses. It works for that variety.
Yes there is a period where turbos and starfish can not be reintroducedOne thing I remember being concerned over was that once it was used in your tank, it leached for some time. Like copper does.
This will be correct if overdosed and not enough flow to keep it suspendedSomeone was trying a year later and still had trouble with introductions.
You should be able to get them in those small numbers also remember don't stop your methods until you know for sure you got them all.Thanks guys for the great info! I ordered some. But I'm going to try to combat them with kalkwasser paste and boiling water syringe to try to get them. They are only in two places about 3 inches on one and a inch on the other. I think I got most of them yesterday with the kalk paste.
Did not test SPS. I'll go check for more specifics, as it was some time ago. They've probably found out more about it since then. There was also someone selling a product for hydroids. They said it was NOT Fenbendazol. Sent it to a lab and guess what it was..... Fenbendazol.