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Hello everyone. I have owned one of the older Red Seas for about 7 months now and I have some questions. There is a big sale because a store near me is remodeling. They're offering 35% or more off on most livestock. I'm interested in taking the deal for their clams. I'm currently running diagnostics on my water and will post them ASP. Note: I don't have the testers for Calcium or Phosphate. I plan to pick up supplies for it when I buy the clam and will ask them to test my current water there. Since clams are usually so expensive, I think now is the best opportunity to get one. There are a few problems with my tank I should mention, since I am worried about them.
1. I only run my protein skimmer at night, since it generates bubbles. I know bubbles can upset clams, but I'm pretty sure that since they're photosynthetic they will not be completely open at night. Am I correct? I change water often to compensate for the lack of a full time skimmer.
2. I have one Acan Lord who refuses to open. I have another who is open almost completely but not as large as it used to be. They are free from sand and strong flow, and are in relatively strong lighting (My tank has a hood, so the clam should be getting plenty of strong lighting.)
3. I have some flowerpot coral which I'm a little confused on. It's an extremely tiny coral but the heads do not extend like others of it's type I've seen. They aren't tucked away, just not extended far. The 'flower' looks completely fine and the coral overall is still very pink.
4. I have an Acanthophylia Deshayesiana who seems to be unsure if it should be happy or unhappy. Some days it is happy, others it isn't as large. No change in the things I can test for.

Thank you all :)
 

Flippers4pups

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In my opinion, you need all your water parameters. Thus all your test kits before any clam.

Lighting is as critical as is water parameters.

What lighting are you using?
 
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55W T5 PC Flourescent. 10,000K/Actinic.
I plan to pick up Phosphate and Calcium along with the clam. Both the tests and boosters. That would leave me only without Magnesium. When things go wrong I can usually take it to the store for the complete test. My water parameters that I have tested so far are: 8.0 pH, 0 PPM Nitrite, 0.3 PPM Ammonia, and 4.0 PPM Nitrate.
 

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Hi and welcome to R2R!! You're going to find a lot of really good information here.

I dont have any personal experience with providing for a clam, but from what I understand you need some serious light intensity and pristine water quality. I know a good deal is hard to pass up, but you might want to consider waiting until your system is rock solid and the other corals are thriving. I dont know if power compact lights produce enough light for a clam to do well, but maybe others with first hand exp will chim in.
 

Flippers4pups

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What brand test kits do you have?

You need ph, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, nitrate, phosphate kits and a accurate refractometer with calibration fluid for Salinity.

Do you have a ATO on this tank?
Do you have a RO/DI unit?

I suspect the ammonia reading is incorrect with a 7 month old tank.
 

Flippers4pups

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Hi and welcome to R2R!! You're going to find a lot of really good information here.

I dont have any personal experience with providing for a clam, but from what I understand you need some serious light intensity and pristine water quality. I know a good deal is hard to pass up, but you might want to consider waiting until your system is rock solid and the other corals are thriving. I dont know if power compact lights produce enough light for a clam to do well, but maybe others with first hand exp will chim in.

I would agree. Depending on the tank size, 55 watt power compact will not be enough for a clam.
 
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I would run the Protein skimmer 24/7. Do you have some sort of bubble trap, or filter sponge that can catch the bubbles????
Such is the dilemma of the old Red Sea. They have extremely narrow and wide sections. The sponges can only fit in one medium sized area, otherwise they have no effect or stop the flow. This is why I scan ebay every now and then to see if somebody desperate wants to unload a more modern one. It is an all in one. I forgot to mention that.
 
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I would agree. Depending on the tank size, 55 watt power compact will not be enough for a clam.
The main part of the tank is approximately 27 gallons. 35 gallons overall. API is what I use for the basic pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, and Ammonia. I have a Hanna marine Alk. I'm not actually sure about the salinity checker, but I cross reference it whenever I bring a sample into the store. I'm not worried about the salinity, since I have a hood. I have neither an ATO or an RO/DI. A clam would be the most delicate thing I have in my tank short of the flowerpot and most of my corals aren't terribly sensitive. Sounds like from what I hear that a clam wouldn't be right for me just yet.
 

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The main part of the tank is approximately 27 gallons. 35 gallons overall. API is what I use for the basic pH, Nitrite, Nitrate, and Ammonia. I have a Hanna marine Alk. I'm not actually sure about the salinity checker, but I cross reference it whenever I bring a sample into the store. I'm not worried about the salinity, since I have a hood. I have neither an ATO or an RO/DI. A clam would be the most delicate thing I have in my tank short of the flowerpot and most of my corals aren't terribly sensitive. Sounds like from what I hear that a clam wouldn't be right for me just yet.

Not right now. Some your basics need touching up, respectfully.

Making sure your salinity is correct and stays correct is critical for any reef tank. Any swings in salinity can cause numerous parameters to be thrown off and can be stressful to your inhabitants. A hydrometer or refractometer is a critical tool to have!

A reverse osmosis/ deionizing filtration unit is key to clean, safe water for your tank. It can supply you with water to make saltwater with as well as top off water. Using tap water is highly not recommend because of the contaminants in it are stressful and sometimes deadly.

A automatic top off unit (ATO) will keep your salinity stable. It will keep you from adding fresh water by hand to the tank to make up for what's evaporated out. These are semi critical to own.

Sounds like you have some work to do, to get to where you need to be. Takes time and money, but it's worth every penny in the long run.
 
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Not right now. Some your basics need touching up, respectfully.

Making sure your salinity is correct and stays correct is critical for any reef tank. Any swings in salinity can cause numerous parameters to be thrown off and can be stressful to your inhabitants. A hydrometer or refractometer is a critical tool to have!

A reverse osmosis/ deionizing filtration unit is key to clean, safe water for your tank. It can supply you with water to make saltwater with as well as top off water. Using tap water is highly not recommend because of the contaminants in it are stressful and sometimes deadly.

A automatic top off unit (ATO) will keep your salinity stable. It will keep you from adding fresh water by hand to the tank to make up for what's evaporated out. These are semi critical to own.

Sounds like you have some work to do, to get to where you need to be. Takes time and money, but it's worth every penny in the long run.
I have a 5 gallon container of pre-made reverse-osmosis water. I add it by hand when it is needed, but the hood really does make evaporation minimal. I'm fairly confident in the refractometer I have since I bought the same brand as a neighbor of mine. Their tank takes up half of their living room and hasn't had any problems I've heard about. I doubt that the problem I am having is salinity, however when I go to the store to buy the test kits next morning I will ask them to double check for me. Does the ATO work with a hood? It covers the entire rim of the tank. Thanks.
 

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Okay, do you have calibration fluid for the refractometer? Has it been calibrated? They do go out of calibration from time to time.

There's ATOs for nano's and AIO's out there that would work well with your tank. I'd have to look them up.
 
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Okay, do you have calibration fluid for the refractometer? Has it been calibrated? They do go out of calibration from time to time.

There's ATOs for nano's and AIO's out there that would work well with your tank. I'd have to look them up.
It was calibrated 2 months ago. That would be fantastic. What do you think of the lighting? If it isn't up to snuff like the other parts then I'll probably sell the tank in general off and replace it while said friend holds my livestock.
 

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It was calibrated 2 months ago. That would be fantastic. What do you think of the lighting? If it isn't up to snuff like the other parts then I'll probably sell the tank in general off and replace it while said friend holds my livestock.
It's best to calibrate the refractometer every few uses. You'd be surprised at how far off one can get even after a few weeks.
 

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Welcome to R2R. I would not recommend a clam at this time. A power compact is not near enough light to support a tridacna. Also, I'd get all your own test kits, calibrate a refractometer everytime you test salinity and once you can keep things stable and consistent for months with upgraded lighting then maybe consider a clam. Tridacna is a very complex animal with lungs, etc, and unlike a coral much more demanding of a stable tank and intense quality lighting. I'd strongly encourage you to hold off on buying a clam and read up on them before buying due to a good deal. James Fatheree has some great info.
 

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Welcome to R2R! Happy you made it here. As you've already witnessed by all the great input you've received, this is an outstanding forum and hopefully, like many of us, you'll build some really great friendships.

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