High Nitrates

Signalhead

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Hi,
I have been dealing with red algae and high nitrates on my tank, to where I lost 2 BTA and a bunch of zoas. So let get to it,
Tank 150 gal display and 40 gal sump, about 1 year old, 2" of sand. I use RODI and readings are at 0, Lights on for about 10 hours, Sump and Skimmer.

Salinity 1.025
CA around 420 as low as 380 before I dose (once a week)
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Alk 7.7
Phosphate 0
Ammonia 0 (using the batch trace with API)
Magnesium 1,200
temp 79
PH 8
KIT stored in the garage, I rinse pipettes with tap water.
Everything its been OK for the last 8 months Tank was looking good.
I went away for two weeks and get back and start to notice some red algae. I ran water test and all OK (Nitrates at zero) so I start to feed more and I visited my local LFS, show them some pictures and that is DINO so I come home with a bottle to "seed" the tank. Do not change the water, I was told. A week goes by and the problem continues and now it is getting worst, This time I go to another LFS with an specimen cup full of water. They test the water and the Nitrates are at 100 ppm. (zero on my API kit). (everything else is good) so this time I come home with Chemiclean and a new test kit. I run the test and is at 80 ppm. so I do a 50 gallons of WC added the medicine per instructions. waited 3 days and done another WC and more meds. This weekend I will do another 50 gallon and no medicine and planning to add carbon and start the skimmer. Last night the Nitrates were at 40 ppm

What I'm doing wrong? What's Missing?
Does Cheato helps lower the Nitrates? (the green Brillo pad)

Any help is appreciated,

Thank you!
 

Fudsey

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First thing I would do is get a different test kit, Salifert is a good test kit. API is notoriously not a good test kit. Cheato will help lower nitrates as well but first get a better test.
 

zoomonster

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Nitrate has always been the scourge for me but I deal with it in 3 ways. Water change, Chaeto and I finally added a bio pellet reactor that keeps it in check. With the reactor though you need a good skimmer.
 
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Signalhead

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Thank you for taking the time to read my long post....I did walkout the LFS with a new test kit, I do think I found the reason why I was having this issue. To top off with RODI I was running the system for few minutes until the gage read 0. To flush the system. Then top off about three times a week. This last weekend I was getting water to mix and do another water change and the container filled up too quickly, 50 gallons in one hour. I go check the gage and it was reading 200 for TDS. It goes from 0 to 200 in about an hour. New filters, membrane and resin, still giving me the same results. Another membrane and still doing the same. I just ordered a whole new set of filters and see what happens. I will continue to get water from the LFS until I fix the issue
 

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Thank you for taking the time to read my long post....I did walkout the LFS with a new test kit, I do think I found the reason why I was having this issue. To top off with RODI I was running the system for few minutes until the gage read 0. To flush the system. Then top off about three times a week. This last weekend I was getting water to mix and do another water change and the container filled up too quickly, 50 gallons in one hour. I go check the gage and it was reading 200 for TDS. It goes from 0 to 200 in about an hour. New filters, membrane and resin, still giving me the same results. Another membrane and still doing the same. I just ordered a whole new set of filters and see what happens. I will continue to get water from the LFS until I fix the issue

Something isn't hooked up correctly on your RODI I suspect. The DI resin will last a little while even if the RO lines are incorrect and give you 0 tds water but once the resin has changed color it will no longer pull stuff out. Do you have more information on your RODI unit and pictures of all the water lines?
 

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Really do not think nitrates are the issue here.

Got a pic of the ro/di system in question?
It should not be putting out 50 gallons per hour on the clean water line. Unless you have a serious commercial system setup.

What lights are being used?

Edit;

Pic of the algae in question would be great as well;)
 
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Signalhead

Signalhead

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Something isn't hooked up correctly on your RODI I suspect. The DI resin will last a little while even if the RO lines are incorrect and give you 0 tds water but once the resin has changed color it will no longer pull stuff out. Do you have more information on your RODI unit and pictures of all the water lines?
I have used this set up for about 8 years, with out an issue. filters are from the same vendor, I get them in bulk. The membrane is from a different LFS. The resin comes from BRS. And I get the same TDS before and after the membrane.
 

Shirak

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Same TDS before and after the membrane, so either the membrane has a big hole in it which is unlikely or the o rings are not seated properly in the filter housing. OR something else is causing the source or waste water to divert to the ro line.
 
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Same TDS before and after the membrane, so either the membrane has a big hole in it which is unlikely or the o rings are not seated properly in the filter housing. OR something else is causing the source or waste water to divert to the ro line.
I used a second membrane and same issue, so I got a whole new system with a 150 GAD. It came with a cartrige of resin also. I been getting 9 TDS output. That's with put my booster. I'm without an explanation.
 

Shirak

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I used a second membrane and same issue, so I got a whole new system with a 150 GAD. It came with a cartrige of resin also. I been getting 9 TDS output. That's with put my booster. I'm without an explanation.
Wow that just doesn't make sense. Can you post photos of all the tubing connections? Are you using an auto shutoff valve? I have heard they can go bad. Also have you had someone confirm your TDS readings? Maybe meter is off?
 

laverda

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Nitrates of 100 will not kill BTAs. I getting some for years at 120 ant they grew huge.
Like others have said it sounds like you membrane waste and product lines got switched.
What is the TDS from the tap? Of your product line before your DI and waste the line? What is it coming out of you DI?
 

jim_fitz

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have you started the skimmer yet ?

remove the collection cup and let it overflow

this is recommended when using chemiclean
 
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Signalhead

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Wow that just doesn't make sense. Can you post photos of all the tubing connections? Are you using an auto shutoff valve? I have heard they can go bad. Also have you had someone confirm your TDS readings? Maybe meter is off?
I have double check with a handheld meter and the same. I ended up buying another unit and I'm getting 9 TDS
 
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Signalhead

Signalhead

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Nitrates of 100 will not kill BTAs. I getting some for years at 120 ant they grew huge.
Like others have said it sounds like you membrane waste and product lines got switched.
What is the TDS from the tap? Of your product line before your DI and waste the line? What is it coming out of you DI?
Tap is 290 after membrane 270
 
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Signalhead

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8 year old system?

There's got to be a bad gasket somewhere.
I have check all the seals inside the canisters, and used two different membranes. I will call the utility company later this morning to see if they changed the way of making water...
 
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Signalhead

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Really do not think nitrates are the issue here.

Got a pic of the ro/di system in question?
It should not be putting out 50 gallons per hour on the clean water line. Unless you have a serious commercial system setup.

What lights are being used?

Edit;

Pic of the algae in question would be great as well;)

20200217_094338.jpg
 
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Signalhead

Signalhead

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Thats the unusual part
When I notice how fast the table was been filled up. On average is 1 hour to make +- 4 gallons.
 

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