Holes from over driven screws in stands.

[mfinn]

I'm curious about this. Cordless glue gun.

Anything is possible.
Whether it looks ok after is another thing.
Like I mentioned, a 1/4" wood dowel ( $1.12 at Lowes) and a little wood glue.
A container of wood puddy, maybe $6-$10.
Doesn't have to complicated.

 

[X-37B]

If the screw is loose then remove it and put 2 part epoxy in the hole and put the screw back in. Once it cures it will be good. I have done this before and its rock solid.
Then get some wood putty and fill the top flush, sand and paint.

 

[Flameback Pair]

The screw holder steadies the screws. I let's the screw to be driven past flush.

--Mitchell.

 

[Flameback Pair]

Anything is possible.
Whether it looks ok after is another thing.
Like I mentioned, a 1/4" wood dowel ( $1.12 at Lowes) and a little wood glue.
A container of wood puddy, maybe $6-$10.
Doesn't have to complicated.

I have a bag of dowles, 1/4". Too big. However my Ace hardware has my size but I have to chop them from a 3 foot length.

 

[Fish Fan]

The screw holder steadies the screws. I let's the screw to be driven past flush.

--Mitchell.

Using dowel is perfectly reasonable, but not without its challenges if you're not used to doing so. I'd suggest using that drill to firmly seat the screw so that the screw head is bellow the surface of the wood, then fill with putty, then sand it smooth. It couldn't be easier, and if you use that Water Putty or a good wood filler it will dry rock hard like two part epoxy. That screw will never move again

Let us know how it goes!

 

[mfinn]

I have a bag of dowles, 1/4". Too big. However my Ace hardware has my size but I have to chop them from a 3 foot length.

Yeah, just cut a 1" or so length, glue it in and let it dry. Then flush cut the part sticking out, a little sanding and you have a solid wood surface. I suppose wood puddy is faster, easier, but wood is wood.

Then with the extra dowel left over, save it somewhere, so you have it for next time. If you can find it among all the other items you have saved "for that next time".

 

[BeanAnimal]

I still don't understand the goal here. If the screws are buried that deep, don't back them out or you will weaken the joint. Is this being painted or stained?

If stained you will need to use actual wood putty designed to take stain, not "water putty". If you use dowels you should use wood glue, not a glue gun.

If this is being painted then any wood putty or solid filler will work. Hot glue is not the correct product. Epoxy is too much trouble. Dowels are too much trouble. If you don't want to buy putty then use sawdust and wood glue and make your own "putty".

 

[Fish Fan]

If stained you will need to use actual wood putty designed to take stain, not "water putty". If you use dowels you should use wood glue, not a glue gun.

The OP has not mentioned staining, and given that it's a 2x4 stand, staining isn't likely needed. Wood putty is fine as I also mentioned, but the Durham's Water Putty product is ideal for this type of repair, and it can be tinted if needed

https://durhamswaterputty.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopLbVDFMaMzkquPCS0Bjer0u5P5A3y1QplEHPoy_6uG2W31dso7From the above:
"Durham’s® Rock Hard® Water Putty is great for making repairs in wood, plaster, drywall, stone, tile, concrete and other stable surfaces. Just add water to this powdered material, apply it into voids, cracks and holes. When thoroughly dry, it can be sanded, drilled, sawed and painted. Repaired areas are very hard and long lasting. Durham’s can also be cast or molded to reproduce missing trim pieces or in handicraft or artistic applications.

Durham’s is the go-to product for homeowners and handypersons for making repairs to wood, drywall, patching plastic, tile, and many more uses. Durham’s stays put and does not shrink. It can be sawed, chisled, sanded, polished and colored. Use Durham’s for lasting repairs."

The Water Putty sets hard, I find it cures harder than typical wood putty, like Plastic Wood.

To use a dowel, the OP would need a perfectly sized dowel, or would need to drill the hole larger for a dowel. Then, they would need a flush cut saw that they may not have, and even then they'd still would have to sand the repair.

Using wood glue and saw dust is 110% the best way to make a repair that's hardly noticeable, but that assumes the OP built this stand, and has a pile of sawdust to work from. Or, the OP would need the same species of 2x and a saw to make their own sawdust just for this repair.

I don't see how using a putty is not the simplest, cheapest, and easiest solution for the OP

I hope this helps!

 

[Flameback Pair]

I still don't understand the goal here. If the screws are buried that deep, don't back them out or you will weaken the joint. Is this being painted or stained?

If stained you will need to use actual wood putty designed to take stain, not "water putty". If you use dowels you should use wood glue, not a glue gun.

If this is being painted then any wood putty or solid filler will work. Hot glue is not the correct product. Epoxy is too much trouble. Dowels are too much trouble. If you don't want to buy putty then use sawdust and wood glue and make your own "putty".

@BeanAnimal yes, backing the screw out weakens the joint. I plan to sand, apply tinted primer, sand, another application of tinted primer, sand, urethane, and maybe a sanding again.

 

[BeanAnimal]

@BeanAnimal yes, backing the screw out weakens the joint. I plan to sand, apply tinted primer, sand, another application of tinted primer, sand, urethane, and maybe a sanding again.

DAP plastic wood will take stain.

 

[Fish Fan]

@BeanAnimal yes, backing the screw out weakens the joint. I plan to sand, apply tinted primer, sand, another application of tinted primer, sand, urethane, and maybe a sanding again.

Could you please clarify if you'd like to prime and paint this stand, or is your plan to stain it?

From experience, that 2x wood you have that I can tell comes from the orange big box store does not stain well at all, it comes out blotchy and kind of orange, even with a pre-stain conditioner. It's not the same as Doug Fir or Spruce like other 2x material, and it's not Souther Yellow Pine either. I have yet to figure out what species of wood this is

If you're going to paint, you can use any wood filler you want from Plastic Wood to the Water Putty. I've used both, the Water Putty dries harder and is slightly cheaper. In my experience, no wood putty takes stain well, including Plastic Wood.

 

[BeanAnimal]

It is likely Spruce Pine Fir (SPF) is white pine.
It could also be Hemlock Fir
SPF does not take stain well.

If stain is desired, then the best bet would be a gel stain, not a penetrating stain. I would still use conditioner.

I would not buy minwax or other conditioner. I would be un-tinted oil stain as conditioner or
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-fi...-sealers/oil-based-pre-stain-wood-conditioner

I would not buy big box store stain. Use a brand like General Finishes.
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-wood-stains-sealers/gel-stains

 

[BeanAnimal]

Their topcoat urethan is amazing as well.

 

[Fish Fan]

It is likely Spruce Pine Fir (SPF) is white pine.
It could also be Hemlock Fir
SPF does not take stain well.

Possibly Hemlock, but I've never been able to find out for sure, even over on woodworking forums. It's not a light, whitish looking pine, it has a weird orange tint to it.

Building materials like these will vary from market to market, but here's a pic of a a scrap piece of 2x4 and 4x4 that I get at my local orange box store, with a piece of SPF 2x4 I get at my local blue box store in the middle. You can see how off colored the top and bottom pieces are, and in my experience this wood does not stain well:

And, if the OP does want to stain, then I see at last one more hole and checks in a knot that should be filled too, and that's just the one picture posted. I'm not sure this project lends itself to staining, I'd paint this, but of course to each their own.

And to be clear, I don't object to the OP using Plastic Wood vs. the Wood Putty, I just still think a putty is the easiest way to go here

+1 for General Finishes products too.

 

[Flameback Pair]

 

[BeanAnimal]

I personally use ML Campbell stains, pre-cat and post-cat lacquers... but they are not available at retail.

When I do use retail, I use the General Finishes. The GEL stain from general will do a decent job on the pine. I use it on "whitewood" pine closet doors. I will try to get a photo.

The top piece of lumber in your photo is hem-fir

 

[BeanAnimal]

Those are not the correct screws.
Order of preference
1 - stainless
2 - galvanized
3 - outdoor coated
4 - zinc plated

Also - you want coarse thread screws for wood to wood. Fine thread has less holding power.

 

[BeanAnimal]

@Fish Fan - for dimensional lumber, there should be a marking on it somewhere indicating species. Of course, you may have cut it off already

 

[Fish Fan]

@Fish Fan - for dimensional lumber, there should be a marking on it somewhere indicating species. Of course, you may have cut it off already

I know, and I've checked on these boards for years and I have never found an indication of the exact species on the label. Hemlock has always been the strongest suggestion, so I'd believe that. I'll just say again that I don't think it stains well, I think it would look better painted, but that's up to the OP

 

[Flameback Pair]

I can get knotty Alder which would stain well. So pretty I wouldn't paint it. I will get a picture at the lumber yard.