Holes from over driven screws in stands.

70 gallons. Glass. Glass Cages.

--Mitchell.
17774885280935106263198566037382.jpg
I'm not going to lie, that stand looks a little sketchy to me 😬

What's supporting the weight? Could we see a pic of the inside of the stand too? So we can see what's supporting what? I'm concerned that you have the weight supported by screws and not solid wood.
 
Screwed in past being flush with the surface of the wood. Hole to deep.
Not a problem in my book . I use a drill that is tapered with a counter sink collar for making decks . If it bothers you use a drill driver it ratchets a screw in slowly so it wont run away on you
 
Hold on 🤪

Sheer strength of a screw has nothing to do with a narrow head backing out, a problem that's compounded when using soft woods. That's why cabinet screws have a wide, washer head like this:
grk-fasteners-cabinet-screws-110079-40_600.jpg


Furthermore, when building an aquarium stand the weight of the tank should never be held by the screws alone. Most of us use a stand design where the wood frame is supported by vertical wood stiles, not the sheer strength of screws.

I hope that helps!
The strength of a fastener is the diameter of the shaft. And what connects a stiele to a cross member. And since the force at that joint is a lateral/up-down force it is sheer force. The head and threads counter tensile/pulling forces.
 
I don't know if it will have the same holding power with just the threads keeping the boards together.

Depending on the stand design and what's specifically being held together for what reason, it might be fine...or not. I'd leave it screwed in and fill the hole, personally.
NEVER DO THAT.
 
The strength of a fastener is the diameter of the shaft. And what connects a stiele to a cross member. And since the force at that joint is a lateral/up-down force it is sheer force. The head and threads counter tensile/pulling forces.
Sheer force is side to side as in water flowing back and forth causing pressure from top to bottom unevenly
 
The strength of a fastener is the diameter of the shaft. And what connects a stiele to a cross member. And since the force at that joint is a lateral/up-down force it is sheer force. The head and threads counter tensile/pulling forces.
I understand what the sheer strength of a screw is, and that's how I know it should never be relied on to support the weight of an aquarium. The screws are not what's supporting the weight of the tank in a stand design like this one, that's been widely used for decades now:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/basic-diy-stand-calculator.1138386/
Notice how the weight of the tank is supported by the purple vertical pieces, and not by the sheer strength of screws 🙂
88993565-323e-468a-8d45-e2d543922cc3-29337-00001a2f0b0f6f06-jpeg.4321032
 
I understand what the sheer strength of a screw is, and that's how I know it should never be relied on to support the weight of an aquarium. The screws are not what's supporting the weight of the tank in a stand design like this one, that's been widely used for decades now:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/basic-diy-stand-calculator.1138386/
Notice how the weight of the tank is supported by the purple vertical pieces, and not by the sheer strength of screws 🙂
88993565-323e-468a-8d45-e2d543922cc3-29337-00001a2f0b0f6f06-jpeg.4321032
I was not talking about sheer strength of a screw , and I agree whole heartedly of your explanation. I would like to add that I firmly believe in angled connecter's . To me a screw only joins the pieces not adding any strength at all . What I mean is in your example make an angled brace connecting the violet vertical board which if it was me be a 2 x 6 min to the red cross brace , That is what takes up sheer stress to me Which does not occur unless you try to move the Tank which I had to do after a flood where the carpet and underlay had to be removed . Feel free to comment. Braces only at the front and back. The green seems redundant
 
So what are you asking; how you can fill these holes?
And what happens when you push the front or side of the frame.

Since none of your purple pieces traverse directly to the foundation; loads are carried by fasteners.

Cabinetry specifically uses mortise and tenon joints to allow force to be transferred directly to a foundation. Also mortise/tenon joints increase glue surface along the long grain. Then combine with corner gussets.
 
Hold on 🤪

Sheer strength of a screw has nothing to do with a narrow head backing out, a problem that's compounded when using soft woods. That's why cabinet screws have a wide, washer head like this:
grk-fasteners-cabinet-screws-110079-40_600.jpg


Furthermore, when building an aquarium stand the weight of the tank should never be held by the screws alone. Most of us use a stand design where the wood frame is supported by vertical wood stiles, not the sheer strength of screws.

I hope that helps!
No vertical weight support. Except what the screws are holding up. And that helps.
 
Corner gussets help prevent sway, but unless the gusset is indexed into structural posts, the gusset will not carry vertical load.
 
And what happens when you push the front or side of the frame.

Since none of your purple pieces traverse directly to the foundation; loads are carried by fasteners.

Cabinetry specifically uses mortise and tenon joints to allow force to be transferred directly to a foundation. Also mortise/tenon joints increase glue surface along the long grain. Then combine with corner gussets.
pretty intensive work . If you follow that procedure use Japanese pull saws they have 15 to 24 tpi and are specifically designed for that . Me I use angled braces of wood or if a tight area to access metal angle braces that are screwed flush
 
I was not talking about sheer strength of a screw , and I agree whole heartedly of your explanation. I would like to add that I firmly believe in angled connecter's . To me a screw only joins the pieces not adding any strength at all . What I mean is in your example make an angled brace connecting the violet vertical board which if it was me be a 2 x 6 min to the red cross brace , That is what takes up sheer stress to me Which does not occur unless you try to move the Tank which I had to do after a flood where the carpet and underlay had to be removed . Feel free to comment. Braces only at the front and back. The green seems redundant
I was replying to the member I quoted about the sheer strength of screws 🙂
 
And what happens when you push the front or side of the frame.

Since none of your purple pieces traverse directly to the foundation; loads are carried by fasteners.

Cabinetry specifically uses mortise and tenon joints to allow force to be transferred directly to a foundation. Also mortise/tenon joints increase glue surface along the long grain. Then combine with corner gussets.
The load is not carried by the fasteners, the screws just hold the frame together. The purple pieces are "sandwiched" between the top and bottom rail, and the weight of the tank is directly supported by those purple pieces. That stand design I linked above is tried and true, has been used for decades, and the particular version I posted above was authored by an aerospace engineer. He is not relying on the sheer strength of the screws to support the weight of the tank, and no one else should 🙂
 
No vertical weight support. Except what the screws are holding up. And that helps.
If I'm understand you correctly, you are saying that the screws going into the side of the stand are directly supporting the weight of the tank? That is a huge red flag to me, if I'm understanding what you're saying correctly!

Take a look at this picture, do you have anything like the purple pieces supporting the weight of your tank?
88993565-323e-468a-8d45-e2d543922cc3-29337-00001a2f0b0f6f06-jpeg.4321032


Can you post a pic or two of the stand from the inside/underneath?
 
So if you were to stack 2 aluminum cans; would it be harder to crush because one can is on top of another.
 
So if you were to stack 2 aluminum cans; would it be harder to crush because one can is on top of another.
I have no idea what point you're trying to make here.

You're just not getting that it is not recommended to build a stand for a large aquarium where the weight of the aquarium will be supported by the sheer strength of typical screws, unless you step up to large lag screws or bolts.

And you're clearly unfamiliar with one of the most popular DIY aquarium stand plans ever in the hobby, and how it's designed to work. I just don't know how else I can explain it 🙃
 

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