Holes from over driven screws in stands.

It is likely Spruce Pine Fir (SPF) is white pine.
It could also be Hemlock Fir
SPF does not take stain well.

If stain is desired, then the best bet would be a gel stain, not a penetrating stain. I would still use conditioner.

I would not buy minwax or other conditioner. I would be un-tinted oil stain as conditioner or
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-fi...-sealers/oil-based-pre-stain-wood-conditioner

I would not buy big box store stain. Use a brand like General Finishes.
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-wood-stains-sealers/gel-stains
Fir and pine are in two different groups of "pine" trees. I can throw a rock from my kitchen window and it would land in the Kootenai National Forest. And I'm not saying that you don't know your trees.
 
How are these screws?

--Mitchell.
17774826196201314318188940973690.jpg
 
Fir and pine are in two different groups of "pine" trees. I can throw a rock from my kitchen window and it would land in the Kootenai National Forest. And I'm not saying that you don't know your trees.
In the world of building materials, they lump them all into a group that are commonly and sometimes interchangeably used to make 2x (pronounced "two by", as in 2x4's, 2x6's, 2x8's, etc.) material. SPF means Spruce - Pine - Fir to lumber people. In forestry it's a little different I would assume 🤪

If you're getting something like Red Alder from your area of the country, that would indeed be very nice wood to work with 🙂
 
I know, and I've checked on these boards for years and I have never found an indication of the exact species on the label. Hemlock has always been the strongest suggestion, so I'd believe that. I'll just say again that I don't think it stains well, I think it would look better painted, but that's up to the OP 🙂

Try the general finishes gel stain.... It does not penetrate or behave differently over the density variations. I think you be so happy that you would build everything out of fir and stain it.

I use a lot of poplar and maple combined -- neither of those species take stain well either.

GEL examples:
cheap pine shutter doors. General Finished Gel, no conditioner.

IMG_7714.jpeg



Pine doors (two 10-lite doors joined into a single 20-lite slider).
GF GEL with no conditioner. Pine Same stain and tone as above, lighting different.

IMG_7713.jpeg



Floating Shelves - same stain (GI GEL) as above this is hard maple with NO conditioner. No splotching, etc.
IMG_7716.jpeg



Just for reference - this is baltic birch (with maple legs not shown) tinted with untinted M.L. Campbell oil stain with tinted M.L. Campbell oil stain over it and then finished with M.L. Campbell pre-cat lacquer. Excuse the gouges, the warden can be hard on things. Her materials science understanding does not include metal to wood contact being problematic.

IMG_7717.jpeg




I do agree- that staining to get good results can be very tough. The GEL stain is not magic, but it can do wonders in some cases. In this case, I use it to match color and tone on vastly different woods, some of which are almost impossible to stain evenly.


I can get knotty Alder which would stain well. So pretty I wouldn't paint it. I will get a picture at the lumber yard.
I am a bit lost here. You already built the stand. Are you going to rebuild it? Cover it?
 
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How are these screws?

--Mitchell.
17774826196201314318188940973690.jpg

Stainless are the better choice. The trim screws have small heads, so pull through soft pine easier. The deck screws have a larger head and are less likely to pull through, but are less corrosion resistant.
 
Fir and pine are in two different groups of "pine" trees. I can throw a rock from my kitchen window and it would land in the Kootenai National Forest. And I'm not saying that you don't know your trees.
SPF

S
pruce
Pine
Fir

Meaning it could be any of the above. Often called "whitewood".

Ahh I see, I typed "white pine" in my haste when I responded.
 
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Try the general finishes gel stain.... It does not penetrate or behave differently over the density variations. I think you be so happy that you would build everything out of fir and stain it.

I use a lot of poplar and maple combined -- neither stain well either.

GEL examples:
cheap pine shutter doors. General Finished Gel, no conditioner.

IMG_7714.jpeg



Pine doors (two 10-lite doors joined into a single 20-lite slider).
GF GEL with no conditioner. Pine Same stain and tone as above, lighting different.

IMG_7713.jpeg



Floating Shelves - same stain (GI GEL) as above this is hard maple with NO conditioner. No splotching, etc.
IMG_7716.jpeg



Just for reference - this is baltic birch (with maple legs not shown) tinted with untinted M.L. Campbell oil stain with tinted M.L. Campbell oil stain over it and then finished with M.L. Campbell pre-cat lacquer. Excuse the gouges, the warden can be hard on things. Her materials science understanding does not include metal to wood contact being problematic.

IMG_7717.jpeg




I do agree- that staining to get good results can be very tough. The GEL stain is not magic, but it can do wonders in some cases. In this case, I use it to match color and tone on vastly different woods, some of which are almost impossible to stain evenly.



I am a bit lost here. You already built the stand. Are you going to rebuild it? Cover it?
Very nice work indeed!

With the cost of hardwood around me, I would love to be able to use more big box wood for projects! The cost to build is why I don't do more wood projects.

I also use poplar only for painted projects, and hard maple as trim on workshop benches and cabinets. Neither stain well at all. Here's a stand I made like 13 years ago, before I knew you shouldn't stain maple. This is oak ply and maple trim, you can see the maple did not turn out well at all:
IMG_0239.jpeg
IMG_0234.jpeg
IMG_0233.jpeg


Here's a stand I made and stained out of the weird Home Depot 2x material. This was to be only a prototype, later rebuilt with hardwood, but my wife liked it enough that I'm stuck with it 🤪
IMG_0188.jpeg


It's definitely not impossible to stain this wood, but I think there's better species to choose from if a stained project is the goal.
 
White Pine is common name for a species. The word white has 5 letters. White pine trees have 5 pine needles per cluster of needles. Easy way to remember.

Short story: we have a white Pine tree on our ranch up by the mailboxes. My best cow didn't like it and almost destroyed it. The cow ended up in our freezer although the tree made it and stands there today.
 
White Pine is common name for a species. The word white has 5 letters. White pine trees have 5 pine needles per cluster of needles. Easy way to remember.

Yes - very familiar with white pines. I have a few monsters in my front yard.

1777485524698.png
 
Looks like the wood is just pine. You can purchase wood plugs that will match. or, as another suggested, just use dowel.
 
Are you taking about this thread or the hobby?

With this thread, I want to learn about some aspects of tank stands. Goal or goals with this hobby: Enjoy home reefs for the rest of my life.
 
Bond strength of a screw is a function of size. #8, #10, #12 also to a limited degree the head flange size.

Strength of the fastener is a sheer force which increase with screw diameter.

The overset of a screw is a cosmetic component. Doesn’t impact structural efficiency.

While sealing a wood frame may delay water and humidity intrusion. Almost all sealants do leach VOC for a while. Also sealant can impact desired finish.

Exterior latex paint is a good option. As future touch ups will bond to previous layers.

All urethane are films. Meaning they will not bond to previous layer unless slightly scuffed.

Fasteners material choice can improve corrosion resistance, but strength is a function of diameter.
 
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can you show us the full stand so that we can see the structure.

When I say goal, what is your aesthetic goal. What do you want it to look like?
Open? Closed? Stained? Painted?

What size tank? Acrylic or glass?

Top flatness is very important. All four corners on the same plane, no areas that can point load, etc.
 
White Pine is common name for a species. The word white has 5 letters. White pine trees have 5 pine needles per cluster of needles. Easy way to remember.

Short story: we have a white Pine tree on our ranch up by the mailboxes. My best cow didn't like it and almost destroyed it. The cow ended up in our freezer although the tree made it and stands there today.
This tree scar is all that is left of the damage the cow did.

--Mitchell.
PXL_20260429_180842381.jpg
 
Okay let’s calculate some figures

70gal at 1.025SG = apx 277.673lbs.
Weight of aquarium apx 100lbs.
Weight of hardscape apx. 65lbs.

total =442.67 lbs .

Since the aquarium does have a rim, true flatness across perimeter is not necessarily a deal breaker.

Also weights stated are an estimate as actual volume and hardscape, aquarium weight vary upon personal preference.

Fasteners shown were #8, #9; both can be bent easily enough by hand tools; or have the heads broken by an impact driver.

Whether or not you wish to roll the dice, and possibly come home to that amount of mess on the floor. Is a question all hobbyist contemplate.

Cabinet makers need not only to consider load bearing, also sway, bow, countertop/ aquarium support.
 
Last edited:
Okay let’s calculate some figures

70gal at 1.025SG = apx 277.673lbs.
Weight of aquarium apx 100lbs.
Weight of hardscape apx. 65lbs.

total =442.67 lbs .

Since the aquarium does have a rim, true flatness across perimeter is not necessarily a deal breaker.

Also weights stated are an estimate as actual volume and hardscape, aquarium weight vary upon personal preference.

Fasteners shown were #8, #9; both can be bent easily enough by hand tools; or have the heads broken by an impact driver.

Whether or not you wish to roll the dice, and possibly come home to that amount of mess on the floor. Is a question all hobbyist contemplate.

Cabinet makers need not only to consider load bearing, also sway, bow, countertop/ aquarium support.
Hold on 🤪

Sheer strength of a screw has nothing to do with a narrow head backing out, a problem that's compounded when using soft woods. That's why cabinet screws have a wide, washer head like this:
grk-fasteners-cabinet-screws-110079-40_600.jpg


Furthermore, when building an aquarium stand the weight of the tank should never be held by the screws alone. Most of us use a stand design where the wood frame is supported by vertical wood stiles, not the sheer strength of screws.

I hope that helps!
 

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