How big for my first tank

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I control around a 1000 fresh water gallons at home the big tank is a 700. Wanting to try salt and maybe get another big tank or a something like 250 to 350 gallon range and let what I put in there just go free. And I if possible I wanna put in a say 3 fish being predator stye like a jaguar grouper and some other bigger pretty that it couldn't eat. Is that possible or am I dreaming in the salt water world. I do things differently for fresh I dont follow the rules after 18yrs of it
 
Welcome to Reef2Reef!

#WelcometoR2R

I think a lot depends on your budget. In general, saltwater tanks tend to be a lot more expensive than freshwater tanks.

I might honestly suggest a much smaller tank to see if you like saltwater before jumping into a 250+. But, if you've got the cash and think you'll like it, then go for it!

@vetteguy53081 is knowledgeable with truly huge tanks, maybe he would have some insight here.

Good luck!
 
I control around a 1000 fresh water gallons at home the big tank is a 700. Wanting to try salt and maybe get another big tank or a something like 250 to 350 gallon range and let what I put in there just go free. And I if possible I wanna put in a say 3 fish being predator stye like a jaguar grouper and some other bigger pretty that it couldn't eat. Is that possible or am I dreaming in the salt water world. I do things differently for fresh I dont follow the rules after 18yrs of it
I recommend a 90 or 125g tank to start with for available room, reduced maintenance and lower equipment requirements opposed to a 210, 300 or more volumed tank. Once you conclude you are truly loving this hobby, you can then get that BIG tank and use the 90 or 125g tank as a quarantine system
 
I agree wholeheartedly with Vetteguy. Something else to keep in mind is salt mix is not cheap, especially for larger tanks. You'll be doing water changes - especially with predatory fishes - and the salt cost will add up.

Since it sounds you're leaning toward a predator tank with some other cool fish, I've always thought the following would be a fun stock list for a 125 (though I'm not sure it would work in practice):

Snowflake eel
Zebra dwarf lionfish
Red coris wrasse
Harlequin tusk
Foxface rabbitfish
Australian stripey
 
If you are sure you want a large predator fish only tank, then I would go large like you plan as you will need a large tank to successfully keep those type of fish (triggers, groupers, large angels etc). Keeping that type of tank is not a lot different or more expensive than a similar sized freshwater tank. You would want a sump and a protein skimmer, but other than that and the salt cost, the set-up is similar to freshwater. It is when you decide you want a reef tank that the costs really sky-rocket with increasing tank size. For a reef tank I would not recommend much more than a 75 gallon as a starter.
 
I control around a 1000 fresh water gallons at home the big tank is a 700. Wanting to try salt and maybe get another big tank or a something like 250 to 350 gallon range and let what I put in there just go free. And I if possible I wanna put in a say 3 fish being predator stye like a jaguar grouper and some other bigger pretty that it couldn't eat. Is that possible or am I dreaming in the salt water world. I do things differently for fresh I dont follow the rules after 18yrs of it
Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR) is what you sound like you're planning.

My mom had a grouper and an eel in a 70 when I was growing up. That's actually my origin story into saltwater.

When I was a little older (married, kids, my own house, etc.) I was driving home and passed a thrift shop. Sitting outside was a tank that looked just like the one she used to have. I bought it for $5, got a light, HOB overflow, and a wet/dry filter and went to work!

I started with the 79, ran that for 4 or 5 years, tore it down in a move, set up a 6 gallon, set the 70 back up, upgraded to a 125, moved back to a 70 with the ESHOPPS M70, and currently running the M70, an IOAOI 8 gallon, and a 5.6 gallon homemade from a Tenecor kit.

With the FOWL, you're definitely going to want close to or more than a 100 gallon tank. 110 Extra High is a cool tank if you don't have fast swimmers, 125 or even 180 is a good tank for a longer one. My sister's ex-boyfriend had a neat 220 Cylinder tank as a centerpiece tank in his house for a while.
 
If you're keeping it as a true fish-only tank – meaning it's set up like a freshwater tank just with saltwater instead – then it's going to be very familiar to your current husbandry practices.

If that's the case, I say go for the tank you're imagining.

Havng to mix saltwater for filling and water changes is the main difference – if you can measure .5 cups per gallon fairly accurately then mixing saltwater will be easy. You'll want 50 or 100 gallon (or better) vats to make RODI water and saltwater in.

You *might* want to do filtration differently than your freshwater by including a large protein skimmer (check out RK2 and Lifereef).....that would be a very cool upgrade for you but I wouldn't say it's a requirement if you just wanted to keep things as similar as possible between your freshwater and salwater on the backend.

2¢
 
I agree that if you want to do a FOWLR tank and keep it that way? I would do something around the 90g mark
 
I got a 55 ima start with. So will predatory fish mess with corals. And from what im seeing is that the coral feeds on extra foods. Some that is. And supplements. There like a clam filter feeders feeding on everything. And there's stuff out to convert a regular tank for salt water. Without a over flow in the tank for a sump and jets excet. Haven't got that far into looking. And what fish are good for corals. And the ones to stay away from. And good corals and bad ones. And coral war
 
I got a 55 ima start with. So will predatory fish mess with corals. And from what im seeing is that the coral feeds on extra foods. Some that is. And supplements. There like a clam filter feeders feeding on everything. And there's stuff out to convert a regular tank for salt water. Without a over flow in the tank for a sump and jets excet. Haven't got that far into looking. And what fish are good for corals. And the ones to stay away from. And good corals and bad ones. And coral war
many predator fish do not go for corals but aren't kept with them often due to reasons like clumsiness, messy eating, etc a far as coral feeding on extra food, many do not in the direct sense, most will use their symbiotic relationship with zooxanthelle to convert ammonia, coral like candy canes, favia and other LPS will occasionally (some more than others) take particles out of the water, as far as good coral the easiest to start with would be soft coral like leathers, mushrooms, clove polyps, zoanthids, and more. they are called soft coral or "softies" due to their lack of a skeleton which does contribute to their easier care level since they do not need calcuim to build a hard skeleton like LPS (large polyp stony coral) or sps (small polyp stony coral) they also tend to me a lot more forgiving towards parameters swings and high nutrients compared to LPS and sps, once you feel confident with softies you can move onto easier LPS like acans Duncan's, scolymia, and candycanes and eventually to harder ones like plate corals, indophyllia, cynarina, chalices, acanthophyllia, torches, hammers, and more, the next step as you can probably predict would be easy sps like montipora, birdsnest, cyphastrea and eventually to harder sps like acros which some never move on to due to their high light high flow and finicky nature
 
Welcome to reef2reef! didn't notice that you were a new member at first lol
adding on to my previous post, its also worth mentioning that different coral need different lighting intensities that we measure in PAR, different coral types have par ranges like how acropora typically need 250-400 par which would be classified typically as high par, soft coral like to be at the low end of the spectrum typically 50-150. coral warfare, warfare amongst coral can range in methods from species to species, torch coral will sting with both their normal tentacles and longer sweeper tentacles, other euphyllia do the same as well as most other coral like favia, candy cane coral, scolymia as an example. some are more aggressive than others with coral in the euphyllia family typically being the more aggresive potent sting along with goniopora and galaxea, favia tend to be pretty defensive of their space as well, although there sting is less damaging to others its still something to watch out for. other coral have some different ways to attack/fend off neighboring coral like how lobophyllia use digestive mesenterial filaments to disolve the victim coral, some softies like zoas mushrooms and leathers notably release chemicals into the water to stunt the growth of other coral and can also kill coral near them occasionally. zoas and palythoa use the method of fast growth to smother other coral, pulsing xenia, green star polyps and pulsing xenia are known to do this to the point of being almost like a weed.
Reef safe fish, many fish would be fine in a reef tank and typically websites will have a reef safe section, you may also find a reef safe with caution categorie which typically includes fish that may go after clean up crew or nip at corals like many dwarf angelfish, some fish have a chance to go after coral but may not or have lesser chance depending on the type and personality, this is best applied to dwarf angelfish like coral beauties, cherub and flameback angelfish which have a lesser tendency to go after coral and in my experience as long as they are well fed will not, fish that are not reef safe with typically be labeled as non reef safe or FOWLR (fish only with live rock) these fish are an absolute no go for a reef tank due to their messy eating, coral eating tendencies, or destructiveness overall. some examples of fish to avoid in a reef tank would be most triggerfish and file fish, butterflyfish, large angelfish, some pufferfish, some wrasses, and inverts would include select mantis shrimp, camelback shrimp red knobbed starfish, and chocolate chip starfish. the good thing is that if you decide to have a full reef that there is A LOT of variety in color, sizes, and shapes in reef safe and reef safe with caution fish.
(sorry for all the typing)
here's a pretty helpful video about coral warfare:
coral warfare
 
That video was probably one of the best ones I've seen yet. At least I understand the chemical warfare thats possible. Everything has its own way of fighting back thats cool. Broke my heart tho ya gotta be careful in what all can go into it even separated. How do I say this. How do u stop r kill r make a barrier if there touching and fighting. By kill i mean cut back r trim or grafting some and letting it grow back How do u do that.
 
That video was probably one of the best ones I've seen yet. At least I understand the chemical warfare thats possible. Everything has its own way of fighting back thats cool. Broke my heart tho ya gotta be careful in what all can go into it even separated. How do I say this. How do u stop r kill r make a barrier if there touching and fighting. By kill i mean cut back r trim or grafting some and letting it grow back How do u do that.
coral warfare can sound pretty intimidating but once you begin keeping coral you'll find that its not as bad as it sounds and stuff can be put next to each other with proper planning
as far as cutting back/pruning it depends on the coral like branching coral for example, some people will simply cut pieces off sort of like trees or plating montipora that can be snapped off in flat pieces , other encrusting coral like zoas will typically need to be smothered or taken out of the water
 
Everybody is going to give a different opinion on this. A larger tank definitely is more forgiving and allows for more errors. My opinion is a smaller tank such as a 25 because I find it a lot easier cheaper and quicker to maintain a 25. Water changes are so much easier as you can mix a 5 gallon bucket of water and that’s your weekly water change.
 

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