How to Properly Quarantine Fish

Discussion in 'Fish Discussion' started by SeahorseKeeper, Aug 23, 2014.

  1. Aruna

    Aruna Member

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    Is there any other way than keeping the sponge in the display tank sump. I don't have sump in my tank.My skimmer and filters are attached to display tank.
     

  2. Wonderland

    Wonderland Member

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    What about dipping fish before putting in QT?
     
  3. acer

    acer Well-Known Member R2R Supporter 3RMAS Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Hmmm.... Not sure I agree with treatment if no sign/symptoms are seen. I always thought u obverve in QT, and if no S/S then fish stays in QT for 6 weeks. Then transfer to display. If S/S are seen. Then medicate and clock starts over.
     
  4. akarusso

    akarusso Member R2R Supporter

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    great thread
     
  5. A&NReef

    A&NReef Member

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    I agree with acer
    If the fish shows no signs of being sick then why medicate ?
    I hate that local fish shops sell people fish that are already in a copper treated water before the fish show any sign of being sick
     
  6. akarusso

    akarusso Member R2R Supporter

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    How long do you acclimate before putting the fish into the QT tank!
     
  7. Tristren

    Tristren Active Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Everything I've seen says acclimate the same time/way you would going into the DT. Though going from QT to DT will not require the same acclimation then assuming your parameters match.
     
  8. Empress

    Empress Well-Known Member

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    Depends...how long was the fish in the bag?

    But basically, you want to float the bag in the QT for about 20 minutes (just long enough for the temperature in the bag to match the temperature in the tank).

    And if the salinity in both the bag and tank match you can release the fish.

    If the salinity doesn't match then you'll have to open the bag and pour in a little bit of tank water every few minutes. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes for this at best.

    Turn off the lights. Leave them alone for a day or two, and then feed them with quality food laced with vitamins.
     
  9. BigJohnny

    BigJohnny Valuable Member

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    One reason is that fishes with thick slime coats like wrasses can be carriers of disease and exhibit no symptoms.
     
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  10. Beckbacca

    Beckbacca Member CTARS Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Question: how about algae you want to put in your figs, like chato? Does this need to be quarantined?
     
  11. BigJohnny

    BigJohnny Valuable Member

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    Technically you could introduce ich into your system on anything wet. The only way to "qt" things like chaeto/inverts/corals from fish parasites is to leave them in a fishless system for 76 days. That period outlasts any parasites maximum life cycle.

    I personally got my chaeto from algae barn who cultivates it in a fishless system (which is how you would qt for fish diseases anyway) and did not qt it. I inspected it and it was also 100% clean chaeto with no other hitchhikers (aiptasia, flatworms/nudibranch/who knows?!), which would be another reason to qt/inspect chaeto.

    Just FYI I personally only QT fish, dip/rinse/inspect coral, and simply rinse inverts (minimum 3 consecutive rinses to minimize the chance of water they came with entering my system). Technically I'm taking a gamble on the coral and the inverts as encrusted ich tomonts could enter my system as well as free swimming theronts (rinsing should cover the theronts though).
     
  12. Beckbacca

    Beckbacca Member CTARS Member Build Thread Contributor

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    Thanks for the info. I have had ick in the past, and with my new large tank, I am willing to take my time, so I will quarantine the algae too! lol.
     
  13. Medic755

    Medic755 Active Member

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    I'm almost in an emergency situation with the qt I have for an acillies tang. He has been in there since Tuesday and has barely eaten anything....
     
  14. cane

    cane Active Member

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    Good info
     
  15. dealseer

    dealseer Active Member

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    Try live black worms
     
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  16. HKfshkpr1

    HKfshkpr1 Member

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    Very nice! But I'd like to point out many fish( esp sand dwelling wrasses) will get very stressed out with a bare bottom I had a new Hoeven's wrasse that in the first 2 nights just
    madly dashed towards the tank bottom for like an hour. I put a tray with sand in and kind of guided him there. OK. But in the folllowing night the stupid thing could not find his way
    to the tray of sand and madly dashed on the bare bottom again!
    So I "dreamed up" a way : I put a large thick and rigid filter pad on the bottom and weighted it down. Then I filled the remaining bare bottom with sand( about 35% area with sand).
    Now the wrasse's can easily find the sand and completely comfortable with that. All that on the tank bottom can be removed quicky in case..............
    I set up another quarantine tank exactly the same way so almost any new fish will be "comfortable within a very short time",
    I highly recommend using these filter pads( got mine from Dr foster and smith) The white/beige or lime pad will do. Cut it so there's "no gap" at the glass.
     
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  17. LuizW13

    LuizW13 Active Member

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    That's very interesting; will remember that for the future!
     
    HKfshkpr1 likes this.
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