How would BRS threaten dino?

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Velcro

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NUTRIENTS (for dino problems caused by lack of nutriens).
I had dino before which killed half of my tank. It was close to a year of struggling and at times feeling like I was completely losing the battle and was about to quit the hobby altogether. After trying pretty much everything I had on the table, I was destined for the last resort - nutrients. And it worked. Contrary to the popular belief that dino should be eliminated by nutrient control or Alk raise or H2O2, dino does not fear them and it is competitive enough to always be able to outcompete other bigger organisms such as green algae for nutrients and they would always come back if the root of the problem is not solved. So I unplugged my BP reactor and kept only a skimmer in the sump. I introduced some new fish into my tank and started to feed heavily. Several months later green algae started showing up again with dino still present. Then several months after that dino went away, slowly. After dino was gone corals were growing again and the colors were just fantastic. If I had given up, I would have never seen my tank as beautiful as it is today. My LFS also had a dino outbreak in their tanks and I worked with the store to try out different things and eventually the nutrient method also got rid of dino in their tanks as well. I still think that it may be back to the basics - competition. At the end of the day it really is about balance and stability. Dino shows up, in my experience, when the nutrient level is low and algae are starved to death. Higher nutrient level allows competition which may contain dino population. All of our tanks have dinos of some sort. It is misguiding, in my opinion, to recommend that people reach undetectable nutrient levels (NO3 and PO4). Not only will corals starve to death, weed organisms such as dinos can overpopulate in such conditions. Nowadays reactors and media are so effective it becomes a problems as I often come across peoples tanks that are starving, corals pale with little zoo. I know many people who have played with undetectable or very very low nutrient levels and resulted in a crash / large loss of corals by or partially by dino outbreaks when their nutrient levels accidentally reached zero. So don't play with UNLS unless you are well experienced and well informed. Many people for example at WWC they keep higher-than-you'd-think nutrient levels and still have pretty amazing results. If you really like that UNLS look you can still use Zeospur2 to get the results in a higher nutrient environment.

**I also tried Seachem's phosphate and Stump Remover dosing. The results were not very stable and not as good as keeping more fish and feeding more. But don't add a bunch of fish at once. A few or one at a time, and test your NO3 level after a while.

This ha been my experience as well
 

bubbaque

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Many different types of dinos. Mine reacted the exact opposite of what worked for you. Peroxide 100% worked on mine and what caused mine was RAISING nutrients.
 

hart24601

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Many different types of dinos. Mine reacted the exact opposite of what worked for you. Peroxide 100% worked on mine and what caused mine was RAISING nutrients.

Same here. I have not beaten them yet, but I noticed them after adding dry live rock that shot up my phosphate and nitrate... boom, dinos.
 

Rakie

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Raising nutrients helped to slow mine, but did not get rid of it. Here's a post I made in my own thread, but it shows the most likely ID of my dinos, and what I did to kill them off (Metro).


________________________

Here's what I can tell you on my system:
- Setup last October -- 50 cube, with sump around 40g water volume
- SPS dominant, had no previous dinos/algae's before
- Fuge was added 2 months ago
- Nutrients are 5-10 no3, .05 - .13 po4 (been swinging a bit with the inability to skim, siporax removal, and lots of dead dinos)
- Fish pop: 4 wrasse, bangaii, 3 gobies, midnight clown
- Inverts: Scarlet flame shrimp & Cleaner shrimp
- Snails: 8 Trochus, 6 Astrea, 5 Cerith, 2-3 Nerite, 5 Nass, 1 turbo
- Other Snails: A few chitons, which happened to have just bred.
- Dosing: 2 part, kno3 / po4 to get nutrients stable, AF Pro Bio S to reseed tank after Siporax removal

Metronidazole -- Used Seachem Metroplex (70% metro conc.).
- Dosage: 125mg/10g (Can use up to 250mg/10g)
- Dosed for: 3 days over 4 days -- Dino death was so rampant, I turned on skimmer during day 3 to clear out the water, and then did my final dose on day 4 (3rd dose)

I continued with bubbling and manual removal -- Bubbling really just aids manual removal, that's all it does, but it helps more than you'd think. I feel safe saying bubbles and manual removal are the cornerstone of dealing with just about any dino species. But they are not enough in and of themselves.

Dino Species -- Ostreopsis Heptagona (As suggested by my buddy with microscope, Ostreopsis Ovata is second contender)
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CoralWealth

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I added 50 pounds of uncured dry Pukani to my sump for 30 days, then placed it all into the display. The system had been running for 1 year prior to this not had any major out break of dinos. But adding the rock caused a pretty bloom of dinos that started to cover some small frags which I had to clean off every day. My strategy, add Phosphate .
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I had to dose three times in the last two weeks and now the display has improved drastically.
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99% of the dinos are gone replaced with a tiny amount of film algae in just two weeks simply by keeping my PO4 >.05. I call it a huge success.

Other things I did:
Stop GFO/GAC
Run and change filter socks daily
Clean fuge/cheato
More wet skimming




Still dont have dinos? Would you still recommend doing this?
 

Rakie

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Many different types of dinos. Mine reacted the exact opposite of what worked for you. Peroxide 100% worked on mine and what caused mine was RAISING nutrients.

Yep, i try to stress this whenever possible. With other 2,000 species of Dinos, what worked for me may not work for you, and vice versa. I think people need to take this into account. Additionally, although it's extremely difficult for some, I'd encourage those with dinos to get a positive ID of the sp. That way maybe someday we could have a database on what killed what, and how successful their methods were versus one or another species.
 

Bouncingsoul39

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My theory is that there is something in dead dry Rock, either terrestrial like Marco Rock or dead Pukani that creates the dino outbreaks.
Just my anecdotal observation, but I rarely recall seeing any mention of dino issues 10-15 years ago when we all used Walt Smith Fiji Premium Live Rock or even the cheaper Aquanautics Fiji live Rock.
The one time in ten plus years of reefing as a hobby and professionally that I had to deal with dinos was when I used dead dry rock.
 

brownerd

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Very interesting! I have a small 10 gal tank on my desk at work and had a bit of green algae and my phosphates were s bit high... So I added phosguard and carbon - within a few days I had the brown slime (I presume it is dino but I am not 100% sure). After reading your post, I am pulling out the phosguard - we will see if that helps get back to where I was. Thanks for the information.
 

Velcro

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Recommending Dino X for all suspected dino is like recomending chemo for anything resembling cancer. There are serious considerations before putting that stuff in your tank.
 

jd371

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Recommending Dino X for all suspected dino is like recomending chemo for anything resembling cancer. There are serious considerations before putting that stuff in your tank.
I've heard that you have to be absolutely sure on the volume of your tank for the correct dose. I believe a lot of the problems with Dino X were caused by over dosing. I've never used it, but this is what I picked up from reading while researching Dinos when I had an outbreak.
 

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