Hydrogen Peroxide

[Humblefish]

** This information was originally posted here: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/hydrogen-peroxide.21/ **

Hydrogen Peroxide *** The information contained here is subject to frequent changes as I experiment and learn more about the usefulness of H2O2 ***

What It Treats – Provides temporary relief for Marine Velvet Disease. After a 30 minute H2O2 bath, the fish should be transferred into a Quarantine Tank (QT) and treated with either copper or Chloroquine phosphate.

How To Treat – The following is needed:

1. 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (USP grade) – available at most drugstores or Walmart
2. Large glass bowl or container (Avoid using plastic buckets/containers)
3. Syringe or pipette (for measuring out the H2O2) and measuring cup (for adding saltwater to the glass bowl)
4. Metal spoon for mixing (NOT plastic)

Directions:

1. Prepare saltwater for the bath by having it set to the right temperature and heavily aerating it. You can accomplish the latter by running an airstone or pointing a powerhead towards the surface of the water for at least 1 hour (longer is better). Alternatively, you can use Display Tank (DT) water or even from your Quarantine Tank (QT) provided no medications/chemicals are present in the water.

2. Add saltwater (using measuring cup) to the large glass bowl. Keep track of exactly how much water is added – either in cups or ml. (Do this beforehand if preparing saltwater for the bath right in the glass bowl.) Make sure your fish has enough water to swim around and last for 30 minutes without aeration.

3. Discontinue all aeration before adding Hydrogen Peroxide to the water. Using a syringe or pipette, add 3% Hydrogen Peroxide as per dosing instructions below. Dip the tip below the waterline and spread the H2O2 throughout the water. (Do not allow any air/bubbles to enter the water at this point.) After dosing is complete, gently stir the water using a metal spoon. The reason you want to be careful not to create any gas exchange/aeration once the H2O2 has been added is to prevent the atoms from releasing their bond and becoming just oxygen + water.

Dosing instructions: To achieve ~ 150 ppm H2O2 add:

• 1.25 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 cup of saltwater.

OR

• 5 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 liter of saltwater.

OR

• 20 ml of 3% H2O2 per 1 gallon of saltwater.

4. Now it’s time to add the fish. Again, do not aerate during treatment. The bath water should be perfectly still. It’s okay to use a heater, but probably not necessary since the bath only lasts 30 minutes. Observe closely and remove the fish if showing signs of distress. The vast majority of fish will handle it just fine. After 30 minutes, remove the fish and transfer into a QT for further treatment: https://humble.fish/velvet/

Pros – Effective, easy-to-source “pre-treatment” before fish is placed in QT with copper or Chloroquine. In this study, a single 30 minute treatment with 75 ppm hydrogen peroxide “greatly reduced” Velvet trophonts on the fish: https://www.researchgate.net/public...n_the_Pacific_Threadfin_Polydactylus_sexfilis

Cons/Side Effects – Still experimental so side effects are not really known. It’s possible some fish may not tolerate this treatment. Avoid using H2O2 on fish with an open wound or obvious infection. Although H2O2 is an antiseptic, it has been found to slow the healing process and possibly worsen scarring by killing the healthy cells surrounding a cut.

*** Further reading on use of Hydrogen Peroxide for fish:

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa157 (PDF: https://agrilifecdn.tamu.edu/fisher...-Hydrogen-Peroxide-in-Finfish-Aquaculture.pdf)

http://www.masa.asn.au/masawiki/index.php/Hydrogen_Peroxide

http://www.masa.asn.au/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=212442

More info from the aforementioned study: https://www.academia.edu/23793309/T...n_the_Pacific_Threadfin_Polydactylus_sexfilis

*** At this time H2O2 is only appropriate to use for the following scenarios:

1. Hybrid Tank Transfer Method: Hybrid TTM to treat all parasites!
2. For temporary relief of velvet & brook. It can also be used as temporary relief for uronema; however the H2O2 will aggravate the red sores if a fish has an active infection.
3. Bath treatment prior to entering quarantine. The fish may or may not require further treatment in QT. Best to observe for 30 days with black mollies alongside: Black Molly Quarantine

To be clear, I do not expect the above to be the "final say" on using H2O2. But research and experimentation into this new treatment is going to take time. What I'm trying to discourage is people taking liberties with the treatment, and just dropping the fish in their DT straight away after one 30 minute bath. Best to at least observe in QT (with no meds) for 30 days before doing that.

 

[EmdeReef]

Welcome back!

 

[mfollen]

This is great to be aware of. Thank you so much for your research and sharing.

I plan on dipping a fish post-QT as an extra preventative before putting it in the display.

Is this more or equally as effective as a freshwater dip for velvet?
In addition, can these dips be utilized one after another? Say first a 5 minute FW dip, then the H202 dip.

Thank you.

 

[Humblefish]

Is this more or equally as effective as a freshwater dip for velvet?
In addition, can these dips be utilized one after another? Say first a 5 minute FW dip, then the H202 dip.

IME; a 30 minute 75 ppm H2O2 bath is more effective against velvet trophonts than a 5 min FW dip.

You can give the fish a 30 min H2O2 bath after the 5 min FW dip if you want to be especially careful.

 

[mfollen]

The FW dip can account for any potential flukes, then the h202 can account for any potential velvet... interesting.

 

[mfollen]

Put a cleaner wrasse and two cleaner gobies through both a 150 ppm hydrogen peroxide dip for 30 min and then a 5 min FW bath.

Both fish got through with no issues. They all seemed to handle the hydrogen peroxide dip with no problem.

 

[lexinverts]

@Humblefish why do you recommend using a glass container for Hydrogen peroxide dips?

Thanks!

 

[lakai]

Put a cleaner wrasse and two cleaner gobies through both a 150 ppm hydrogen peroxide dip for 30 min and then a 5 min FW bath.

Both fish got through with no issues. They all seemed to handle the hydrogen peroxide dip with no problem.

Hydrogen peroxide is used in freshwater, particularly to clear up the water after dosing potassium permaganate to kill gill flukes and external bacteria. Heres a video of Jack Wattley discus going through the process. He dumps about 16oz straight into the sump on a 200 gallon system.

 

[Humblefish]

Recommended dosage for the 30 min H2O2 bath is now 150 ppm. Dosing instructions have been updated in the OP.

 

[juice79]

Has there been anymore experimental testing on how H202 may be used to treat ich?

 

[Humblefish]

Has there been anymore experimental testing on how H202 may be used to treat ich?

H2O2 seems to be hit or miss with Ich. However, we've begun experimenting with combining other chemicals + H2O2 for treating Ich. Early results look promising, but I don't want to say anything more until we are sure we've got this nailed down. Repeatability is key; if it fails just 1 time out of 100 then that is reason enough to at least still observe in QT.

 

[Jon Fishman]

I just squirt some in my sump sometimes. No idea if it helps with ich or algae, but I do it

 

[juice79]

H2O2 seems to be hit or miss with Ich. However, we've begun experimenting with combining other chemicals + H2O2 for treating Ich. Early results look promising, but I don't want to say anything more until we are sure we've got this nailed down. Repeatability is key; if it fails just 1 time out of 100 then that is reason enough to at least still observe in QT.

Great thanks for the update. I have had some positive results with H202 dosed in my display at 1ml per gallon for 7 days straight. by no means a true experiment but i will continue to try this method if the situation should arise again.

 

[Humblefish]

*** At this time H2O2 is only appropriate to use for the following scenarios:

1. Hybrid Tank Transfer Method: Hybrid TTM to treat all parasites!
2. For temporary relief of velvet & brook. It can also be used as temporary relief for uronema; however the H2O2 will aggravate the red sores if a fish has an active infection.
3. Bath treatment prior to entering quarantine. The fish may or may not require further treatment in QT. Best to observe for 30 days with black mollies alongside: Black Molly Quarantine

To be clear, I do not expect the above to be the "final say" on using H2O2. But research and experimentation into this new treatment is going to take time. What I'm trying to discourage is people taking liberties with the treatment, and just dropping the fish in their DT straight away after one 30 minute bath. Best to at least observe in QT (with no meds) for 30 days before doing that.

 

[Feet4Fish]

Thanks Bobby for the insight and recommendations. About to employ option 3 as soon I will be stocking a big fish only. I will be sure to report my observations. Should be putting about 40-50 fish through this methodology.

 

[Humblefish]

Thanks Bobby for the insight and recommendations. About to employ option 3 as soon I will be stocking a big fish only. I will be sure to report my observations. Should be putting about 40-50 fish through this methodology.

I would watch primarily for Ich and flukes during the observation period. H2O2 will dislodge flukes, but I'm not yet 100% convinced it also eliminates the eggs. Ich has been hit or miss for us; we're testing out combining other chemicals with H2O2 to take care of this Achilles' heel.

 

[Feet4Fish]

I also plan on feeding GC + Focus soaked food x 2 weeks will being observed. Will document everything as it goes. Plan on having three separate isolated tanks to have some flexibility with allocation for more specific treatments.

 

[Feet4Fish]

I also run a DE filter in my observation tanks and daily vacuum about 5 gallons off from the bottom 2" of tank water. Will be prepared for Ich with Copper Power and/or CP if needed.

 

[Humblefish]

For optimal results using H2O2, I suggest the following:

1. Use a 1-2 gallon glass jar (or larger for bigger fish.) This is what I use: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Anchor-Hocking-Glass-Storage-Heritage-Hill-Jar-2-gal/16486707
2. Only do the 30 minute bath on one fish at a time (to ensure enough available oxygen).
3. For each fish, replace the bath water with freshly oxygenated saltwater (DT water is fine) and of course, redose H2O2.
4. If your bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide is old or has been opened frequently, invest in a new bottle. (They are only $1-2 at Walmart.) To ensure the H2O2 has not lost its potency.

I know some of you have given a bath to 2-3 fish at a time without issue, and if that's working for you then that is fine. The above is just a baseline to go back to if you start experiencing failures, issues, bad reactions, etc.

 

[mfollen]

Hey @Humblefish & fellow reefers

I’m receiving a new powder blue and am putting it into observation quarantine and am trying to determine the best combination of dips to ensure no velvet enters the observation QT.

my main concern is velvet, as ich is in my display. I’ve read extensively and spoke to other reefers on acanthurus tangs and ich management. I made the decision to acquire the tang, as I see maybe one spot of ich every month or two currently. I understand the risk.

anyways, ich is not a major concern in the QT as of now.

I plan on dosing prazipro in the observation tank, so flukes aren’t a huge concern either.

am I best off utilizing the 150ppm hydrogen peroxide dip or should I also incorporate a general cure dip as well before or after the hydrogen peroxide dip?

Ive done the hydrogen peroxide dip multiple times now and have great success on other fish.

thank you for your help and consultation on this QT process. This is the last fish I’m adding to my display.