I have literally no idea how to build an overflow.

Kaiser

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So to start off, I got this tank from someone I met at work for about $400 with the stand, which I thought was a great deal, except I wasn't considering the amount of work I had to put into it. I've been looking at this overflow that he created and gave to me and I'm not really sure if it's gonna work to my needs. I'm planning on running Triton method on this tank, so I want as close to that 10x turnover as needed. It's a 120 gallon tank and I'm going to be adding a chiller and a second return line later on so I'm not worried about the returns being 3/4". However, the overflow itself is currently my area of concern, I'm not sure if it's going to be quiet or be able to handle the amount of flow I desire. I'm awful at plumbing and would appreciate some advice on it. Thanks.
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Matthew Frost

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Couple questions, is this the only overflow in the tank? What is that thing on the top of the stand pipe? What is the water level at in that overflow when the tank is running? Can we see some more pictures of your set up, where is your sump in relation to the drain?
 
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Kaiser

Kaiser

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Couple questions, is this the only overflow in the tank? What is that thing on the top of the stand pipe? What is the water level at in that overflow when the tank is running? Can we see some more pictures of your set up, where is your sump in relation to the drain?
This is the only overflow. The pipe came with the tank so I have no idea what his plans were or how it works, the thing on top is called a maggie muffler apparently, http://maggiemuffler.com/
I have not even filled the tank yet as the final plumbing for the bottom of the return arrived today. The bulkhead was leaking and it took me a bit to solve it. I'm replacing some of the plumbing down below and adding a union, but here is what it currently looks like.
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Matthew Frost

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Based on what I see I have a couple of recommendations:

1. Stop the drain from splitting and going into all three inlets on the sump. That's unnecessary and it complicates everything. Pick the one drain location that works best and use that one and cap off the other two.
2. I don't think, because of the size of the over flow, you are going to have the space to do a traditional Durso style overflow. That leaves us with just one drain line and a strainer tuned with a valve under the stand. Its not ideal but anything else will require removing your existing overflow box and replacing it with something larger.
3. Your return plumbing seems to be set up a little strange, one would think you would want it closer to the back of the tank. I have some ideas on how to do that as well.

More to follow. I am writing as I work today.
 
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Kaiser

Kaiser

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Based on what I see I have a couple of recommendations:

1. Stop the drain from splitting and going into all three inlets on the sump. That's unnecessary and it complicates everything. Pick the one drain location that works best and use that one and cap off the other two.
2. I don't think, because of the size of the over flow, you are going to have the space to do a traditional Durso style overflow. That leaves us with just one drain line and a strainer tuned with a valve under the stand. Its not ideal but anything else will require removing your existing overflow box and replacing it with something larger.
3. Your return plumbing seems to be set up a little strange, one would think you would want it closer to the back of the tank. I have some ideas on how to do that as well.

More to follow. I am writing as I work today.
The split in the return was a feature of the triton44 sump, it came like that. I agree that the box is a bit too small for that, I got the tank and stand for $400 flat, so i can't really complain all that much about how he designed the overflow box i guess. This is my first time plumbing the tank, thats why the returns probably came out a bit weird, i really don't do plumbing that much, i'm more invested with what is going INSIDE the tank haha. My tanks are set up in my garage (Parent's don't really want it inside the house) so I'm not exceptionally worried about it sitting flush with a wall, if that is your concern about the return plumbing
 

Reef of Fillory

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I would use both of these drains from the main tank - one as a full siphon and tune it with a gate valve, and the other as an emergency. You could run a "trickle" down the emergency tube to help with frequent adjustment.

This is called a Herbie Overflow method: http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

This is what i'll be doing on my new tank in November, and i've used it in the past on other tanks with no problems.
 
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Kaiser

Kaiser

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Oops sorry, That's actually only one drain, I clipped the pipe due to an issue and haven't reglued it. Those two pieces actually connect.
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I would use both of these drains from the main tank - one as a full siphon and tune it with a gate valve, and the other as an emergency. You could run a "trickle" down the emergency tube to help with frequent adjustment.

This is called a Herbie Overflow method: http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

This is what i'll be doing on my new tank in November, and i've used it in the past on other tanks with no problems.
 

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