Ich

[Lbrdsoxfan]

So on uv, I know flow plays a factor in what it does slower for one and faster for the other. Algea vs parasites. Do you know which is which. I have a 32w or better (have to look to be sure I run them on all tanks) that runs 24/7. And it is new as I only set this tank up a few months ago.

There are calculations out there to figure out flow rates to combat protozoa. Slower flow = more contact time is what your looking for. I run a 57w aqua uv at an documented 380-400g per hour on my return setup, 120g display with a 25g sump. It keeps ich at bay, I have a sailfin Tang that's a 'canary' for it. I don't run uv for 7-14 days the sailfin will get a spot or two first.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

There are calculations out there to figure out flow rates to combat protozoa. Slower flow = more contact time is what your looking for. I run a 57w aqua uv at an documented 380-400g per hour on my return setup, 120g display with a 25g sump. It keeps ich at bay, I have a sailfin Tang that's a 'canary' for it. I don't run uv for 7-14 days the sailfin will get a spot or two first.

Think I’m running a 1050gph current pump at 50% with at least one elbow so probably running a little above 400 on a 36w. Adjusted it to 25% just now.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

So if we agree it is velvet, then I should turn out the lights and cover the tank?

 

[itsmexanderb]

To me, this seems like a pretty clear-cut case of Velvet, which wiped out my Regal of 3 years in about 2 days. I wish you the best of luck and I hope you don't lose anything, but I would have to agree that copper is the best option regardless of Ich or Velvet.

 

[Spieg]

Living in Nebraska, I assume there are plenty of farm supply stores in the area? You can buy a large plastic feeding trough for pretty cheap and use that for a hospital tank. Hope its Ich and not Brook.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Living in Nebraska, I assume there are plenty of farm supply stores in the area? You can buy a large plastic feeding trough for pretty cheap and use that for a hospital tank. Hope its Ich and not Brook.

Yes, but how to cycle it? I have kept fish in trash cans before, but only a couple days.

Pretty sure I can’t establish a cycle, so wouldn’t ammonia kill them?

 

[cooltowncorals]

I would read the H202 thread by Jessican on humblefish.

if everything is staying in your DT it’s and option need to run carbon and use UV for max effectiveness. Has worked for quite a few people me included.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

I would read the H202 thread by Jessican on humblefish.

if everything is staying in your DT it’s and option need to run carbon and use UV for max effectiveness. Has worked for quite a few people me included.

That is what I posted. I have had success once before, but haven’t tried since as everyone has different options. TTM has worked for me, but too many and too large of fish for this to work.

Wondering if I should slowly ramp up as suggested or quickly ramp up. I think it says both but prefers slower start. I’ll read it again.

 

[cooltowncorals]

I did three days of morning and night dosing at lower dose then started with night dose right away

I had velvet I believe. I had half of my fish survive including a purple tang I thought for sure would be a goner

 

[Spieg]

Yes, but how to cycle it? I have kept fish in trash cans before, but only a couple days.

Pretty sure I can’t establish a cycle, so wouldn’t ammonia kill them?

I don't bother cycling a hospital tank... frequent water changes should be enough. Just be sure to add copper to the fresh water before each water change.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Hyposalinity for ich, but if I’m right Jay says it doesn’t work for velvet. Fish look like they were dusted with powdered sugar not sprinkled with salt. I only called it ich as it is what I have fought before and Jay said ich.
So now I don’t know.

Velvet shows first as rapid breathing, often before any dusting shows on the fish's body. The fish breath fast, hang in the current and soon stop feeding.

With ich, the fish show larger spots, and these coalesce into more of a white coating later on in the infection (where people mistake it for velvet) but the fish will keep on eating, right until near the end.

If the angel is breathing less than 120 beats per minute (take a video of it and count from that and then multiply it out for 60 seconds) then this is ich.

Jay

So if we agree it is velvet, then I should turn out the lights and cover the tank?

No - that is mistaken advice, used for freshwater Oodinium, a different species.

Jay

 

[HankstankXXL750]

Velvet shows first as rapid breathing, often before any dusting shows on the fish's body. The fish breath fast, hang in the current and soon stop feeding.

With ich, the fish show larger spots, and these coalesce into more of a white coating later on in the infection (where people mistake it for velvet) but the fish will keep on eating, right until near the end.

If the angel is breathing less than 120 beats per minute (take a video of it and count from that and then multiply it out for 60 seconds) then this is ich.

Jay


No - that is mistaken advice, used for freshwater Oodinium, a different species.

Jay

Ok thanks.

 

[jmichaelh7]

Ok thanks.

If you do decide to transfer the fish to a 40 gallon and treating infection you can use Seachem Prime to keep ammonia down.

The uv sterilizer works as well. Like the member mentioned at a low flow rate. I have 80 watts Aqua uv at 400gph ~ . Some days the brown powder I have has spots and then they diss appear I’m sure do to the cycle. If I didn’t have it who knows what would happen population wise

 

[HankstankXXL750]

If you do decide to transfer the fish to a 40 gallon and treating infection you can use Seachem Prime to keep ammonia down.

The uv sterilizer works as well. Like the member mentioned at a low flow rate. I have 80 watts Aqua uv at 400gph ~ . Some days the brown powder I have has spots and then they diss appear I’m sure do to the cycle. If I didn’t have it who knows what would happen population wise

In theory possibly. I have not had that great of success with using bacteria when moving fish to a virgin tank. Despite all claims, I have seen ammonia spike to lethal doses even when treating daily.
The two larger angels were out in a cycled (had been using for other fish for over 2 months) 40 gallon breeder and it wasn’t enough. They spiked the tank in under 48 hours. I moved them to a larger system.

I am debating getting a 100 gallon stock tank when they open, but not sure which way their survival chances will be best.

 

[jmichaelh7]

In theory possibly. I have not had that great of success with using bacteria when moving fish to a virgin tank. Despite all claims, I have seen ammonia spike to lethal doses even when treating daily.
The two larger angels were out in a cycled (had been using for other fish for over 2 months) 40 gallon breeder and it wasn’t enough. They spiked the tank in under 48 hours. I moved them to a larger system.

I am debating getting a 100 gallon stock tank when they open, but not sure which way their survival chances will be best.

It’s actually a water conditioner that I use during my quarantine protocols successfully.

To each their own. I hope you don’t lose any fish bud they look like beauties. How are they doing this morning

 

[HankstankXXL750]

It’s actually a water conditioner that I use during my quarantine protocols successfully.

To each their own. I hope you don’t lose any fish bud they look like beauties. How are they doing this morning

Lights are out but I have seen some movement.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

It’s actually a water conditioner that I use during my quarantine protocols successfully.

To each their own. I hope you don’t lose any fish bud they look like beauties. How are they doing this morning

I’ve used prime. I think it works great in large aquariums with smaller inhabitants or in QT/hospital again when low load. Don’t think it is as effective when pushing the borders. That is why I set up my one QT system with 3 29’s and a 55g converted to a sump. Little fish in a 20g or slightly larger in a 40g breeder do ok. But if you really overload it can be a problem.

The two larger angels I feel would overload a 100g stock tank within a couple of days, add in the rest and I would probably be having to do 50% w/c daily. Not opposed to the work or salt expense, but also don’t want to kill the with stress.

Wife and I are discussing at the moment.

 

[HankstankXXL750]

So I’m hoping this is a positive update. Don’t want to jinx anything. But so far all of the fish are still alive and active. Still have a lot of spots, but the emperor isn’t breathing as hard. But no one is lethargic. The Tuskfish is still hiding but he is upright instead of laying on him side. Thawing food now so should know how they are eating in a moment.

 

[jmichaelh7]

So I’m hoping this is a positive update. Don’t want to jinx anything. But so far all of the fish are still alive and active. Still have a lot of spots, but the emperor isn’t breathing as hard. But no one is lethargic. The Tuskfish is still hiding but he is upright instead of laying on him side. Thawing food now so should know how they are eating in a moment.

How did they respond to the food

 

[jmichaelh7]

You just hope it’s not velvet and ich best case scenario . I know that sounds crappy but hey if you get a uv plumbed and do ttm or what ever your going to do, it’s chances of survival are high