Idealistic Parameters: Do you have them?

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Anna K

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Parameters.

We all have a set of parameters for our tanks that we just gush over. The perfect little numbers that just cause our tanks perfect bliss. Then one day, you come home, you notice something sucked in. What could it be? What could have happened? You test. You test some more. Then.. BAM. You idealistic parameters have been shattered. Your numbers are left in shambles; too low, too high. They are off whack. Off balance. Whatever will your tank do?

I think the #1 one thing I see throughout the community (besides the age old question of; WHAT IS THIS????? in response to an algae/critter) is people chasing the perfect parameter numbers for their tank. It's kinda interesting to see the difference in variables that people have, and the difference in what their tanks look like. Some tanks flourish, some tanks look.. well.. politely offensive.

So;

What parameters/numbers do you seek, if any AND throw up a picture of your tank.
 
I realized decades ago there's no such thing as "perfect" numbers. Unfortunately there's far more going on in our systems than we can test for. The issues with microbial imbalances being the most significant. As you've asked for examples here's one of my systems with ICP test results for the system and the tapwater used for water changes:



ATI 90 PBD Tap.jpg

ATI 90 PBD Tank.jpg
 
I don't test many things. I target 8.5 dkH alk and kinda let N and P land where they want and normally only intervene when I see zero N or P
This tank runs NO3 20+ and PO4 0.5ish but it has pegged 0.9 on Hanna ULR before. I think problems are created when people try to control too much early on instead of just waiting and see where a tanks settles.

image.jpg


This one is pretty much opposite of that tank. This tank has ran chronically low N and P since starting and I have to dose to keep levels above zero. I'm currently dosing ammonium after dosing N and P separately for a year or so.
PXL_20250407_211849460~4.jpg


Hi, low who cares? I let the tank tell me where its comfortable and go with the flow. I have zero nuisance algae in either and corals are doing fine so I sit back and enjoy them vs fretting over my PO4 level being above 0.03 or NO3 above 5.
I ignore pH as well because mine is too low but i haven't told my corals.
 
For some, chasing the numbers is another hobby in itself. They get a sense of satisfaction and control when they can “dial in” their tank. If their results reflect that effort, then I encourage them to continue. But if it’s an endless spiral of doom, and the tank is suffering, I suggest going back to the basics. I know where my coral like to be, so I keep them in that range. But I don’t lose sleep if some numbers are off a little. I just do a course correction, and let the ship right itself.
 
I try to keep mine within a certain range but if ones off a little I don't freak out. I generally try to keep Ca at 450, mag 1350,alk 9.0-9.6,phosphate below .1, and nitrate 5-10 ppm. I only test once a week after a water change. If you've had your tank running long enough it will let you know if something is off. Either algea growth or corals not acting normally.
20250428_102738.jpg
 
I test ALK and calcium kind of weeklyish. I generally just let me tank tell me if something is off. I check it out very closely daily, so I will know if things are off. Honestly, I have had a lot going on lately, so I have been off on WC's, and tested for the 1st time in over a month yesterday, happily, the only thing off was my nitrates were at 25 ppm. Even that is far from awful! So, like I say, I just let me tank do the talking. Maybe that's naive, but it works for me, for now at least.
 
For me, it’s the less I test the better my tank does plain and simple! I don’t care what any numbers are! I change my water and let the tank do what ever it wants and it will correct itself and balance out! Less chance of me screwing something up lol.. let nature take its course!
 
The parameters I manage tightly are temp, salinity and alkalinity. Temp is locked to a 0.5 degree daily range with Apex programming, two heaters and a fan. Salinity occasionally moves when the skimmer overreacts and the ATO adds more freshwater but is usually pegged to 1.026 sg. Alk is managed with a KH Guardian to a range of 8.6-8.8. I didn’t pick that range. My corals and calcium reactor settled there and I just use the KHG to keep it from swinging.

For everything else, I test (some parameters more frequently; some with just an occasional ICP) but mostly just adjust based on how the tank looks. If I need to clean the glass more often, I bring phosphates down a bit (they’re usually around 0.02 but my glass gets dirty faster if they go up even a couple hundredths). If I see certain colors looking pale on corals, I increase a KZ supplement to tweak it.

Tank is only nine months old so it’s still finding its equilibrium a bit but my ICP levels all come in near the supposed “ideal.” In these early days, I’m seeing that keeping alkalinity stable is probably the biggest lever I’ve encountered yet.

Here’s a recent video of where things were at 8 months. Most of the corals started as small frags so growth and color have been good. Polyp extension is a work in progress and is not yet where I want it.

 
Well… I chase numbers a little bit for sure but have found what works for me so far.
Goal parameters
Salinity: 35ppt
Temp: 77-78
NO3: detectable-10pm
PO4: detectable to 0.1pm
kH: 8
Ca:420
Mg: 1300

Most recent numbers:
Salinity: 35 ppt
Temp: 77.7
NO3: 5.7
PO4: 0.09
kH: 7.8
Ca: 440
Mg: 1350

Of note I don’t fret over out of range numbers but do try and steer or drift in the right direction toward the goal.
Most recent FTS
IMG_2119.jpeg
 
I let my Trident do the heavy lifting on testing Alk/Cal/Phos and can dial in dosing via the cloud via ReeDos. I do kind of obsess over getting things pretty close to my targets (alk 9.5, Cal 450 Mag - 1400 or so) and test Phos and Nitrate 2x a week. Both of my 200g tanks are pretty mature 6 and 5 years) and i get a sense when things go wrong other than parameters
 
I try to keep mine within a certain range but if ones off a little I don't freak out. I generally try to keep Ca at 450, mag 1350,alk 9.0-9.6,phosphate below .1, and nitrate 5-10 ppm. I only test once a week after a water change. If you've had your tank running long enough it will let you know if something is off. Either algea growth or corals not acting normally.
20250428_102738.jpg

Off topic but how long have you had your chromis and did you lose any? Asking because I want to try a group in my 330 but over the years I've tried groups of 7 twice and both times ended with 1. This tank is larger with more swim room so I'm tempted to try them one more time.
 
Off topic but how long have you had your chromis and did you lose any? Asking because I want to try a group in my 330 but over the years I've tried groups of 7 twice and both times ended with 1. This tank is larger with more swim room so I'm tempted to try them one more time.
I bought 8 and I'm down to 5 now. I've only had them around 2 months and they are still fairly small. I suspect the reason for die off in my case is collection methods. They seem fine and then drop like a rock the next day with no other signs. I have no intention of buying any more of them. I'd rather add more anthias.
 
I used to shoot for specific numbers. But after a couple months of aggravation I decided to let my tank do what it's gonna do. Both my tank and my stress levels are doing much better now.

Numbers as of last weekend:
Salinity: 35ppt
Temp: 78
NO3: 25.3
PO4: .10 (lowest it's been for a while)
dKH: 8.7
Ca:440
Mg: Don't check anymore, but months ago it was at 1420

IMG_6514.jpeg
 
I bought 8 and I'm down to 5 now. I've only had them around 2 months and they are still fairly small. I suspect the reason for die off in my case is collection methods. They seem fine and then drop like a rock the next day with no other signs. I have no intention of buying any more of them. I'd rather add more anthias.
Thanks. Mine lasted a while but just seemed to kill each other off. I tried 5 disbar anthias a couple of years ago also and after QT I added them to the DT and they disappeared behind the rocks and would dart out for food and eventually I just never saw them. I guess I'm just not destined to keep a group of one species.
 
Ideally, about 36-24-3...
...oh, wait, you meant tank parameters...

I test every week, but don't really have a goal so much as to make sure they aren't crazy out of line with "Normal"

Last weekend:

Nitrate - 25.2ppm
Phosphate - 0.21ppm
Alk - 8.8dkh
Ca - 506ppm
pH - 8.1
Salinity 34.8ppt

My calcium has been trending up the last few weeks since I changed my dosing strategy. I'll probably interviene this weekend if the trend doesn't stop. That is about how fast I respond to most things.

PXL_20250414_183732102.jpg
 
I bought 8 and I'm down to 5 now. I've only had them around 2 months and they are still fairly small. I suspect the reason for die off in my case is collection methods. They seem fine and then drop like a rock the next day with no other signs. I have no intention of buying any more of them. I'd rather add more anthias.
I had two chromis that live for over fifteen years. Anytime I tried adding more they would kill them.
 
I try to keep all parameters close to NSW reef levels. I start before I ever put water in the aquarium: flow, ample rock without detritus collecting dead spots, and a moderate deep sand bed. Vigorous maintenance and lots of food; monitor and control temp, salinity, pH, etc, etc, as close to natural as possible.

 

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