IKEA Cabinet as Sump? Reinforcement?

Innominandum

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Hi, I have been running a Fluval Evo 13.5 on an IKEA Alex storage unit and Karlby table top for ~6 years. Been considering adding a sump inside the cabinet/storage-unit for more equipment space (UV-C for medical reasons), water vol, frag tank. Despite the setup working for so long (no bending, buldging, etc), I am concerned that the 2-3 3/4" holes Id have to drill in the back for plumbing/cables would affect its load bearing capacity. I currently have a couple small 1/4" holes for auto water change tubing. Looking to keep the cabinet since it matches the rest of my room decor, which makes this complicated (will try and coat the inside with some kind of water resistant layer).

So far, I have considered the following options:
  1. Drilling the holes and hoping it doesn't collapse
  2. Adding some kind of adjustable table legs inside the cabinet on all 4 corners
  3. Building a whole T-slot aluminum extrusion stand to fit inside the cabinet

Would love any feedback on these ideas from those who have more experience

IMG_8750.jpg
 

FUNGI

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the back wont effect load bearing. The back will effect sway. Those cabinets are pretty strong...correct me if im wrong, but the back is just 1/8th board (almost cardboard) on the back
 

FUNGI

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you'll also need to look at coating with marine paint for condensation. The "melamine" they use is not the best...its almost like a vinyl wrap. it will not do so good in a wet enviroment
 
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Innominandum

Innominandum

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the back wont effect load bearing. The back will effect sway. Those cabinets are pretty strong...correct me if im wrong, but the back is just 1/8th board (almost cardboard) on the back
Yeah, all of the surfaces seem to be 1.5cm thick coated MDF boards.
 

cody6766

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Flex Seal Spray.....
That stuff surprised me. I bought a cheap enclosed trailer for a move and it had some leaks in the roof. I sprayed the inside and outside with clear flex seal (not sure if they have other colors) and it held up for the 3 years I owned it. It sat through Alaska winters and summers without having to be resealed. I wouldn't make a bucket out of the stuff, but it was a reliable water barrier for me.

A few small holes in the back will be fine. The stand's ability to support the tank comes primarily from the sides. The back may carry some of the load it it's built to transfer it from the top to the floor, but you have plenty of support from the sides. If you want some piece of mind, drill more to the center and to avoid having thin areas that could crack from any racking that probably won't occur, but doubt that's really a concern. Just keep the water out of the core and the stand should hold just fine.
 

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