Innovative marine APS stand leveling/ gap between tank question

Fishphi784

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 18, 2014
Messages
367
Reaction score
50
Location
NC
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
glad I found this thread as I’m going through something similar. However, I have a much different understanding of the issues. Let me try and explain the way I see it, at least in my case. Also, don’t take it too hard. I’ve had some sort of issue with every tank stand I’ve ever had, and I have had a lot. J

The non-perimeter top cross braces are a couple mils taller when torqued than the perimeter bracing. Because of this, the tank is essentially supported by non-permitter braces alone. In support of this theory, a feeler gauge demonstrated a gap around the majority of the tank with a much larger gap at the side. The larger gap at the sides make sense because the center of the long perimeter braces would deflect. Moreover, there is no gap whatsoever between the top aspect of the center braces and the mat underneath tank. The explanation would ask be consistent with why the gap remained after filling tank.

So what to do about it

I am debating three options: (1) leave as is because the center braces are supporting the tank evenly, (2) move the center braces outward from the center with the outside-most braces touching the side perimeter brace to further distribute the support and (3) raise the side perimeter braces to be flush with tank/foam bottom to further support each end. Any of the solution leaves gaps between the long perimeter braces and bottom, but I assume the center braces are adequate to support the tank.

Additionally, I use a laser level on both the foam layer adhered to the tank as well as the stand. I do this to ensure the tank and the stand are flat/level. This eliminates any error caused by the tank glass being slightly warped/bowed, panes being slightly out of square, etc. using a info level across two lanes introduces a lot of variable I’d rather just avoid.

Love to hear other’s thoughts on a solution or poke holes in my theory.

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg IMG_7878.jpeg IMG_7876.jpeg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
J

johnmac28

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 2, 2022
Messages
119
Reaction score
52
Location
odessa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
glad I found this thread as I’m going through something similar. However, I have a much different understanding of the issues. Let me try and explain the way I see it, at least in my case. Also, don’t take it too hard. I’ve had some sort of issue with every tank stand I’ve ever had, and I have had a lot. J

The non-perimeter top cross braces are a couple mils taller when torqued than the perimeter bracing. Because of this, the tank is essentially supported by non-permitter braces alone. In support of this theory, a feeler gauge demonstrated a gap around the majority of the tank with a much larger gap at the side. The larger gap at the sides make sense because the center of the long perimeter braces would deflect. Moreover, there is no gap whatsoever between the top aspect of the center braces and the mat underneath tank. The explanation would ask be consistent with why the gap remained after filling tank.

So what to do about it

I am debating three options: (1) leave as is because the center braces are supporting the tank evenly, (2) move the center braces outward from the center with the outside-most braces touching the side perimeter brace to further distribute the support and (3) raise the side perimeter braces to be flush with tank/foam bottom to further support each end. Any of the solution leaves gaps between the long perimeter braces and bottom, but I assume the center braces are adequate to support the tank.

Additionally, I use a laser level on both the foam layer adhered to the tank as well as the stand. I do this to ensure the tank and the stand are flat/level. This eliminates any error caused by the tank glass being slightly warped/bowed, panes being slightly out of square, etc. using a info level across two lanes introduces a lot of variable I’d rather just avoid.

Love to hear other’s thoughts on a solution or poke holes in my theory.

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg IMG_7878.jpeg IMG_7876.jpeg
Hey-I really appreciate your input and pictures.
Here is what I am thinking-Seems that moving side inner braces more outside would result in increasing gap. I was going to try to lower my front and back outer braces by just a touch, as it should mitigate the extra height of the inner middle support pieces.
Also, I have worked with IM to a good extent last week, and they are sending me another mat to add to my existing one-they said mine looked a little thinner than it should.
From what I see on your pics, it looks like you made your outer braces flush with the plastic end caps. Mine are flush with the aluminum vertical pieces that hold the end caps. I was thinking that outer support was most crucial, but I am going to ensure middle supports are bearing weight as well. Hopefully with the extra mat and slight lowering of outer braces (if I need to after mat), I should be close to ideal. Those are just my thoughts, and any opinions are welcomed.
 

rioreef

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
159
Reaction score
122
Location
VA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It's been a couple of months; did you get this resolved?
 
OP
OP
J

johnmac28

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 2, 2022
Messages
119
Reaction score
52
Location
odessa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Yes, I got it resolved. I could not be happier. I used a framing square and ensured all parts were level and correct. When I mounted tank I noticed a slight low spot on right side. I put a couple of composite shims in and all is good. It takes a little time to assemble correctly, but I think it is the best stand I have had and should last much longer than a typical wooden stand.
 
OP
OP
J

johnmac28

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 2, 2022
Messages
119
Reaction score
52
Location
odessa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It's been a couple of months; did you get this resolved?
Yes, I got it resolved. I could not be happier. I used a framing square and ensured all parts were level and correct. When I mounted tank I noticed a slight low spot on right side. I put a couple of composite shims in and all is good. It takes a little time to assemble correctly, but I think it is the best stand I have had and should last much longer than a typical wooden stand.
 
OP
OP
J

johnmac28

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 2, 2022
Messages
119
Reaction score
52
Location
odessa
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I am interested in an update, as I am trying to choose between IM or Waterbox. They both have aluminum profile stands.
Waterbox also uses metric plumbing if I recall, and shipping times vary from what I know. I am very happy with IM
 

Reefing threads: Do you wear gear from reef brands?

  • I wear reef gear everywhere.

    Votes: 27 15.3%
  • I wear reef gear primarily at fish events and my LFS.

    Votes: 11 6.3%
  • I wear reef gear primarily for water changes and tank maintenance.

    Votes: 1 0.6%
  • I wear reef gear primarily to relax where I live.

    Votes: 24 13.6%
  • I don’t wear gear from reef brands.

    Votes: 101 57.4%
  • Other.

    Votes: 12 6.8%
Back
Top