Internal Parasite? Poop? Not sure

[vetteguy53081]

The recommended range for Coppersafe is 2 ppm on their bottle. it has been seen multiple times that a higher level is not really toxic and does a better job at removing ich. The dosing time is (as others have said) is 30 days - at that >2 ppm <2.5 ppm. This is whether you're treating a known outbreak or quarantining fish with no visible signs. using lower dose copper (as it seems you're trying to do) may induce some resistance - and may be worse than using nothing at all - though - I'm not sure there has been any proof (though its been stated) - that there is resistant ich out there because of using low-dose copper (perhaps @Jay Hemdal would know

Known as stale ich, is more stubborn with treatment

 

[vetteguy53081]

So based on everyone saying the same thing, I was definitely misinformed. I did some more research and this is what I found from the manufacturer

As stated, non toxic but can be an issue when above 2.75 and again 2.25 is a good target.

 

[MnFish1]

So based on everyone saying the same thing, I was definitely misinformed. I did some more research and this is what I found from the manufacturer

Its hard to read (sorry) - but assuming I went to the same site - it says up to 2.5 ppm correct?

 

[kylevan]

Its hard to read (sorry) - but assuming I went to the same site - it says up to 2.5 ppm correct?

Yup one of the bullet points

1. When COPPER POWER is used at 2.5 ppm Copper, parasitic infestations can be cured much faster than with conventional forms of copper medications at 0.5 ppm.

http://gocopperpower.com/assets/COPPER_POWER_FOR_SALT54256.pdf

 

[Jay Hemdal]

The recommended range for Coppersafe is 2 ppm on their bottle. it has been seen multiple times that a higher level is not really toxic and does a better job at removing ich. The dosing time is (as others have said) is 30 days - at that >2 ppm <2.5 ppm. This is whether you're treating a known outbreak or quarantining fish with no visible signs. using lower dose copper (as it seems you're trying to do) may induce some resistance - and may be worse than using nothing at all - though - I'm not sure there has been any proof (though its been stated) - that there is resistant ich out there because of using low-dose copper (perhaps @Jay Hemdal would know

Copper “Resistant ich” seems to be a result of treatment error, not a genetic change in the organism. There may be strains of ich that have different salinity or temperature preferences.

 

[winxp_man]

Its hard to read (sorry) - but assuming I went to the same site - it says up to 2.5 ppm correct?

It’s actually posted on the bottle itself to dose to 2.5ppm 24 hours after the initial day of intro to Copper Power. :cool:

 

[MnFish1]

Copper “Resistant ich” seems to be a result of treatment error, not a genetic change in the organism. There may be strains of ich that have different salinity or temperature preferences.

There was a thread here with a major warning about copper resistant (I cant remember either velvet or Ich) - I don't think this every played out - nor did the low oxygen theory - though that seemed more plausible

 

[Jay Hemdal]

There was a thread here with a major warning about copper resistant (I cant remember either velvet or Ich) - I don't think this every played out - nor did the low oxygen theory - though that seemed more plausible

Development of resistance requires multiple generations of exposure. The pet trade is so transient and fragmented, it isn’t really conducive for that sort of multi generational genetic changes.

There is a large public aquarium that has used constant hyposalinity to mange Neobenedenia for decades. I was talking to somebody last week who thinks this has created a partially hypo resistant strain of Neo. I asked; could they have introduced some brackish water capsalids and maybe that were the flukes they are seeing? His response was maybe - they can’t ID these to species level, so he can’t say for sure.

 

[kylevan]

It’s actually posted on the bottle itself to dose to 2.5ppm 24 hours after the initial day of intro to Copper Power. :cool:

My bottle doesn’t have it. On this note, are there any reliable calculators for how much to dose? Manually tracking is minorly inconvenient lol. Im trying to get to the 2.2 without over shooting now and I’ve done:
4/20- 3 ml -> .67ppm
4/21 - 2.5 ml -> 1.21ppm
Today - 3 ml - 1.61ppm
Today - 3 ml - waiting to test since I just gave this dose.
Running a 10g QT

 

[winxp_man]

My bottle doesn’t have it. On this note, are there any reliable calculators for how much to dose? Manually tracking is minorly inconvenient lol. Im trying to get to the 2.2 without over shooting now and I’ve done:
4/20- 3 ml -> .67ppm
4/21 - 2.5 ml -> 1.21ppm
Today - 3 ml - 1.61ppm
Today - 3 ml - waiting to test since I just gave this dose.
Running a 10g QT

So for water that has zero copper it’s 1.48ml-1.50ml (some state the 1.50 ml is a good number). You can run your own tests to see what the bottle you have isn’t at ml per gallon. Make sure you have a real close number for gallons of water in the tank. Measure the inside of the tank, then once filled measure the water height. Use a tank gallons calculator to get your gallons. Then dose as I stated 1.48-1.50ml per gallon. Then test with the Hanna tester. This is for 2.5ppm of copper. As stated above by jay and vette, 2.50 is max you want to keep a QT tank at and above 2.25 for copper to be effective.

And during water changes I use 7.5ml per gal gallons. I run the 20long QT tanks with 15 gallons. And when doing water changes you does the new water to what you want to run. Then pump it into the tank.

Don’t forget don’t run filters that absorb copper such as ammonia reducing pads, phosphate pads and so on. Only bio filters. I like the fluval 107 canister that I’m using on one of my QT systems. So far it’s been a good thing for me.

Here is a copper calculator that has worked me. All you need it to do is help you get above 2.25ppm and stay below 2.50 ppm.

 

[kylevan]

So for water that has zero copper it’s 1.48ml-1.50ml (some state the 1.50 ml is a good number). You can run your own tests to see what the bottle you have isn’t at ml per gallon. Make sure you have a real close number for gallons of water in the tank. Measure the inside of the tank, then once filled measure the water height. Use a tank gallons calculator to get your gallons. Then dose as I stated 1.48-1.50ml per gallon. Then test with the Hanna tester. This is for 2.5ppm of copper. As stated above by jay and vette, 2.50 is max you want to keep a QT tank at and above 2.25 for copper to be effective.

And during water changes I use 7.5ml per gal gallons. I run the 20long QT tanks with 15 gallons. And when doing water changes you does the new water to what you want to run. Then pump it into the tank.

Don’t forget don’t run filters that absorb copper such as ammonia reducing pads, phosphate pads and so on. Only bio filters. I like the fluval 107 canister that I’m using on one of my QT systems. So far it’s been a good thing for me.

Here is a copper calculator that has worked me. All you need it to do is help you get above 2.25ppm and stay below 2.50 ppm.

Don’t see the calculator if you posted a link. Yeah I’m running a 10g QT. I have HD paint buckets with measurements on the side (not sure if they’re exactly accurate) and I put almost exactly 10 gallons minus maybe a 1/4 gallon that wouldn’t fit because of displacement. I have exactly 2.5 gallons mixed up right now that I plan to change tomorrow. So you’re saying I can dose the 2.5 gallons (new water) to 2.25 ppm and be good when I do the water change? To be around the 2.25 ppm I’m at? Just want to make sure I understand that correctly

 

[winxp_man]

Don’t see the calculator if you posted a link. Yeah I’m running a 10g QT. I have HD paint buckets with measurements on the side (not sure if they’re exactly accurate) and I put almost exactly 10 gallons minus maybe a 1/4 gallon that wouldn’t fit because of displacement. I have exactly 2.5 gallons mixed up right now that I plan to change tomorrow. So you’re saying I can dose the 2.5 gallons (new water) to 2.25 ppm and be good when I do the water change? To be around the 2.25 ppm I’m at? Just want to make sure I understand that correctly

This one was a better one for me, but the past few days it just stopped working.

Copper Power Dosage Measurement | CALCONIC_ Calculator

Custom Copper Power Dosage Measurement calculator, built using CALCONIC_

app.calconic.com

Always test and write down notes. The end game is nothing is set in stone for dosing being calculators can’t take all circumstances in the calcs. These calculators are just a means to get close. I utilize to get me in the 2.30-2.40ppm and call it good.

 

[kylevan]

This one was a better one for me, but the past few days it just stopped working.

Copper Power Dosage Measurement | CALCONIC_ Calculator

Custom Copper Power Dosage Measurement calculator, built using CALCONIC_

app.calconic.com

Always test and write down notes. The end game is nothing is set in stone for dosing being calculators can’t take all circumstances in the calcs. These calculators are just a means to get close. I utilize to get me in the 2.30-2.40ppm and call it good.

Alright, here’s an update after today and a 25% water change. Not perfect but I’m happy for now. I’m hoping to knock down those nitrites next water change. Dosing prime until Saturday for my water change unless nitrites get out of hand.

 

[winxp_man]

Alright, here’s an update after today and a 25% water change. Not perfect but I’m happy for now. I’m hoping to knock down those nitrites next water change. Dosing prime until Saturday for my water change unless nitrites get out of hand.

Nitrates do not affect fish much. It’s the ammonia you have to keep an eye for. I would get the seachem ammonia badge. The only product that really reads free ammonia well enough. I don’t do prime or anything. Aside from basic saltwater and copper. Add the ammonia badge and do WC’s when the badge starts reading ammonia.


Edit: Forgot to add, that ammonia reading devices read all ammonia or the copper power trips out the proper reading. Thus the need for only the badge. Free ammonia is what is bad for fish.

And when doing water changes dose the new water going in. Being it’s zero you can use the standard 1.48-1.5ml to get close to 2.5ppm. The bottle I’m now running is off by a bit. So I’m close to 1.6ml per gallon. I use a HD 5 gallon metered bucket to know I have a 5 gallon bucket on the dot.

 

[kylevan]

Nitrates do not affect fish much. It’s the ammonia you have to keep an eye for. I would get the seachem ammonia badge. The only product that really reads free ammonia well enough. I don’t do prime or anything. Aside from basic saltwater and copper. Add the ammonia badge and do WC’s when the badge starts reading ammonia.


Edit: Forgot to add, that ammonia reading devices read all ammonia or the copper power trips out the proper reading. Thus the need for only the badge. Free ammonia is what is bad for fish.

And when doing water changes dose the new water going in. Being it’s zero you can use the standard 1.48-1.5ml to get close to 2.5ppm. The bottle I’m now running is off by a bit. So I’m close to 1.6ml per gallon. I use a HD 5 gallon metered bucket to know I have a 5 gallon bucket on the dot.

Yeah I have the badge also. Honestly it’s hard to tell I feel like if I can’t tell if it’s in the alert or good. Under flashlight and camera it looks good but to the eye it looks like it might be a little tinted lol

 

[winxp_man]

Yeah I have the badge also. Honestly it’s hard to tell I feel like if I can’t tell if it’s in the alert or good. Under flashlight and camera it looks good but to the eye it looks like it might be a little tinted lol

One of my smaller tank has a nice white light. And it shows the color properly. The others struggle at times being the lights suck. You do have a tank light over the tank yea?

 

[kylevan]

One of my smaller tank has a nice white light. And it shows the color properly. The others struggle at times being the lights suck. You do have a tank light over the tank yea?

I don’t I have a AI 16HD Prime for a coral QT right next to the fish QT though, with the lid it won’t fit. My basement door to the outside is pretty close to the tanks though so I feel like they get a decent amount of ambient light from that. Probably not the best but it’s what I got for now. I thought about just turning the whites on the Prime next to the tank for a little more ambient light.

 

[winxp_man]

Mine has a color similar to yours when the lights are not on. So you can somewhat assume that the ammonia levels should be good for now.