Is bigger really easier?

Is more water easier to maintain?

  • Yes (from personal experience)

    Votes: 262 63.1%
  • No (from personal experience

    Votes: 72 17.3%
  • Can’t say (only had one size tank)

    Votes: 81 19.5%

  • Total voters
    415

E_reefer

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Ok, I get what your saying I guess I was just pointing out that a “large” tank on the 300-500 g range can be done for a more budget friendly price- Glass cages are almost fully customizable and, from my own experience, very sturdy and reliable. The GC tank I bought in 2016 was built in 2006- I actually found the original invoice for the build the previous owner left in a box of extra stuff that came along with it.

I am awaiting vetteguys response on how old his is, but I’m sure he will attest to the build quality as better than what you believe.

I will agree with you that with larger systems as a whole- everything costs a lot more so I think if someone is balking at a 3-5k tank cost then you already know your in too deep.
 

CenlaReefer

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All the guys with big tanks in my club (multiple 400g+ tanks) are all super hands off. They pretty much feed fish, turn a few knobs once a month for water changes, or setup auto water changes.. It couldn't be easier. I'd argue you could do the same with a small tank... But nobody ever does until it's large.

If you have a 300+ gallon tank and are trying to do things with buckets, yeah, it's gonna be more work... But most people who get a 300g tank spend like $8000+ on a custom build. A tank like that that takes a year to be made and delivered. They don't go down to bobs fish and get the biggest petco brand tank they can. So automation is part of that tanks design from the inception when you're talking to the tank designer and getting quotes.
All this is so very true. From the folks with big tanks, I found that having well-thought-out fish rooms made things easier as well.
 

jasonrusso

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I have a 210 gallon predator fowler that is on autopilot. I haven't tested the water in over a year (I do have an Apex pH probe), and I have a 32 gallon reef tank. Now that the reef tank is coming up on a year old, the maintenance is decreasing, but I do a comprehensive water test at least once a week to make sure my doser is correct.

So, I think the overall goal of the tank is the determining factor. If you want a reef, then it takes more work. Fowlers are more forgiving than reefs (regardless of size). Freshwater is more forgiving than fowler.

Also, if you want a reef with a ton of euphyllia, LPS, xenia, that's a lot less work than an SPS dominant tank.
 

Amoo

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i would say yes, but with the caveat of up to about 200ish gallons.

Most of the equipment prices seem to all fall into that "reasonable" threshold where we're not talking everything is the top end of the top end. I've been through multiple different sizes at this point and my next tank is going to be 48x24x20 so right about 100 gallons. The price difference between a skimmer for a 75g vs a 120g isn't as massive as the jump from a 75G to a 300G. It's just a completely different class of equipment price wise.

I do think the quality is there to be found at all levels of equipement, to me it's the price difference that seems to rocket up exponentially the larger you get.

Hence for me, about 75G-200G is the limit of what I feel is "easier" compared to smaller tanks that are nano-50g
 

jasonrusso

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I should also add, a 5 gallon WC on the 32 gallon (one bucket) takes 5 minutes. The 210 gets 15 gallons (3 buckets), which requires 3 trips up the stairs and takes 20+ minutes.

That being said, I can skip a week on the 210.
 

Rakie

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Ok, I get what your saying I guess I was just pointing out that a “large” tank on the 300-500 g range can be done for a more budget friendly price- Glass cages are almost fully customizable and, from my own experience, very sturdy and reliable. The GC tank I bought in 2016 was built in 2006- I actually found the original invoice for the build the previous owner left in a box of extra stuff that came along with it.

I am awaiting vetteguys response on how old his is, but I’m sure he will attest to the build quality as better than what you believe.

I will agree with you that with larger systems as a whole- everything costs a lot more so I think if someone is balking at a 3-5k tank cost then you already know your in too deep.

Correct, and that, I completely agree with! But it's often coming down to solving problems you can't easily solve with pre-made tanks. The easiest example is from one of the guys in my club, with a 400g peninsula tank.

So the problem with a 10' long Peninsula tank is where you gonna put the pumps, and hide the cords? His way was simple -- He has a GIGANTIC 250g sump and runs 6 sea swirls powered by red dragon pumps (So lets stop here... 6x $375 + 2x $1,600 already) all sea swirls on top of his tank, and drilled through his Eurobrace (earthquake country, plus it's stability is nice for sea swirls). On the far side of his tank, he has a single Gyre 280 flowing towards the overflow, and on the overflow side he has two or three MP60's.

To do all that and have it be stable, you're starting with multiple thousand dollar pumps, $2400 in sea swirls, $1200 in MP60's, around $3,000 in return pumps, and like $500(?) in the Gyre. That's PUMPS, and not all of them, and the numbers are a bit conservative.

He would NOT have been able to setup the tank he wanted without going custom. And pushign that much flow, from a separated filter room needs a sturdy, well made, and metal braced tank. And that's just scratching the surface.

SO again, you're correct. But if you're building something specific, and don't want maintenance to take 3 days a week, it's best to design and go custom.
 

Rakie

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I should also add, a 5 gallon WC on the 32 gallon (one bucket) takes 5 minutes. The 210 gets 15 gallons (3 buckets), which requires 3 trips up the stairs and takes 20+ minutes.

That being said, I can skip a week on the 210.

Big tanks don't usually do water changes -- They do calcium reactor which supplements most all trace, and dose some trace on top. ICP testing makes this easy to keep parameters in check. A couple bottles of trace, some good Calcium Reactor media.. Easy Peasy.
 

jasonrusso

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Big tanks don't usually do water changes -- They do calcium reactor which supplements most all trace, and dose some trace on top. ICP testing makes this easy to keep parameters in check. A couple bottles of trace, some good Calcium Reactor media.. Easy Peasy.
Calcium reactors and dosers aren't set it and forget it. You need to check and adjust periodically.
 

Rakie

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Calcium reactors and dosers aren't set it and forget it. You need to check and adjust periodically.

Never said, nor implied they were. In fact, I have no clue who you even got that from what I said... Anyways, I said they put trace back into the tank, making water changes pointless. Guys with big tanks either don't do water changes and dose some trace in conjunction with Calcium Reactors, or have AWC systems.
 

Zuma

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My IM 20 is super easy and low maintenance, 5 gallon water change every other week and top off Kalk via and ATO. I would argue that the more complicated we make a tank (i.e. more equipment), the more work it is to maintain rather then based on its size.
 

Janci

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It is all about stability.
The more water, the less impact you have when getting your hands in the tank, miss a drop of dosing, add GFO, and so on.

My next build will have a bigger sump than display + frag tank!
 

Nicholas Dushynsky

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I have only had sub 30 gallon tanks currently running a 120l a 57l and 35l.
I use NSW in all 3 and it only costs fuel money to go and collect. I use 10l containers as alot lighter. I just feel smaller tanks are easier. Not had a large one mind.
But as less initial cost for the tank and all equipment I.e. Lighting pumps etc. If I had a 6ft tank full mixed Reef, the lighting alone would cost more than all 3 of my tanks put together.
Stocking is cheaper because in small tanks you can't have too many fish or corals,so in turn food costs less as less is needed so waste should be less so potentially less waste management, less glass to clean.

Also if the poop hits the fan and you lose all your stock I doesn't cost as much to start over I just think as long as you keep up with general maintenance and lightly stock then a small tank is easy.
I do a water change on my tanks once every 5-6 weeks if that. And I only dose in my 1 mixed Reef as my sps are growing and soaking it all up.
 

Forsaken77

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I've never heard that saltwater is easier than fresh. It's always people over exaggerating how much more difficult salt is. I don't think saltwater is THAT much more difficult, just different.

As to the larger is easier philosophy... that's crap. Yes, the more water there is, the slower changes happen. Where with a 10 gallon you can have a catastrophic crash in an instant.

I would take doing 2 gallon water changes every other day on a Fluval Evo 13.5 over the maintenance and cleaning of a 180+ tank.

Actually, I laugh when someone can do a 2 gallon water change on a tank compared to the garbage can I have to use, lol. Or a 5 gallon bucket for ato lasting a month on a small tank.

The only thing easier with bigger tanks is keeping parameters stable longer and they don't require frequent attention. But that "attention" comes at a big price. ;)
 

Proteus Meep

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I voted smaller is easier as water changes can solve most imbalances simply and working on the tank as a whole is much easier

......but i believe its more complex than that and is a matter of realizing that there is a different rule set for each reef type and trying to run a nano based on the knowledge and rules you have gained with a larger tank can lead to a difficult and frustrating journey and give the false impression that it is harder with a nano... and vice versa trying to apply the knowledge gained in nano reefing to a larger tank

When i switched from a larger tank to a nano it took a while (about the 8 month stage) to realise that a new set of rules was required but once this new knowledge gained from experience was assimilated it became very easy to keep and certainly easier than my larger reef was
 

Mebbid

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It all depends on what you mean by "Easier"

The bigger the tank is, the slower the fluctuations in water chemistry will come. However, it's also more difficult to correct these issues on a large tank, i.e. doing a large water change on a 40g tank to correct a major issue is a whole lot easier than on a 200g tank. Also, with more equipment comes a higher chance of failure. I would say "Larger is easier up to a certain point" Over 55 gallons or so there is a point of diminishing returns.

As to salt water being easier than fresh, no. The remedy to any fresh water tank issue is gonna be a 50% water change. Hook up a hose to the sink and you're done in an hour.
 

Fritzhamer

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With big you can also have biodiversity which, in my opinion, leads to greater stability as well. In a small tank you often don't have enough room for diversity, be it in algae, or tiny animals, etc. With a larger tank you can get close to having an ecosystem of flora and fauna that can help to "take care of itself". Most issues I have now a-days I let work themselves out. As was mentioned, in a small tank you really have to be on top of everything. Nothing good happens fast. It's hard for anything to not happen fast in a small tank.

I also have a level of automation on my tank that would be hard to do on a nano.
 

littlebigreef

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I'm reading a lot of "go big or go home" which is fine and its true that if you're doing a 240+ gallon display you can't be cheap and the infrastructure must be well thought out. That being said, I'm assuming most people are talking about a 125 as being a large aquarium- which is its. But I suppose its all a matter of perspective.
 

trido

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I agree with the comment on definition of easier... Easier as in mistakes have far less impact. Not easier in the aspect of more real estate = more work. Someone commented that with a small tank a WC fixes problems..... I have 450 gallons and a WC helps to fix problems for me too. The bigger the system, the bigger the budget you need to take care of things. I do a 50G WC. I need $50 to treat for bryopsis. I dose Acro power and it costs $20 a month. My electric bill is $100 month just for the tank. A small tank is easier on the wallet.
 

doughboy

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buying a 25K tank does not guarantee success. just like someone who knows how to take good pictures can take good pictures with a cheap camera better than someone who goes out and gets a 10k camera and use it point and shoot. people new to the hobby most likely start small, hence you see more problems posting with small tanks. by the time they are knowledgeable, they upgrade to bigger tank, hence it appears bigger tanks have less problems. there are lots of examples of skilled reefers with nicer looking small tanks than most big tanks. its not the tank size that is the issue, its the skill/knowledge of the person running the tank. OP could be skilled at this point and really looking to upgrade and posting here simply to get confirmation bias. I'd say OP knows best his skill/experience and if he is ready, go for it by all means. But as I said before, if it is the case that OP is not having any success with a small tank, dropping 25k on a big tank will not guarantee success.
 

ca1ore

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All the guys with big tanks in my club (multiple 400g+ tanks) are all super hands off. They pretty much feed fish, turn a few knobs once a month for water changes, or setup auto water changes.. It couldn't be easier. I'd argue you could do the same with a small tank... But nobody ever does until it's large.

If you have a 300+ gallon tank and are trying to do things with buckets, yeah, it's gonna be more work... But most people who get a 300g tank spend like $8000+ on a custom build. A tank like that that takes a year to be made and delivered. They don't go down to bobs fish and get the biggest petco brand tank they can. So automation is part of that tanks design from the inception when you're talking to the tank designer and getting quotes.

I generally agree with that .... echoes the point I made earlier in this thread. The only caveat is that all that tech needs to be maintained. My CaRx ticks along like the proverbial Swiss watch for about 6 months, at which point it needs a time-consuming service. Ironically, it's on the list for this weekend .... and generally takes a couple of hours to do (in part because it's not easy to access .... note to self).
 

Being sticky and staying connected: Have you used any reef-safe glue?

  • I have used reef safe glue.

    Votes: 129 88.4%
  • I haven’t used reef safe glue, but plan to in the future.

    Votes: 8 5.5%
  • I have no interest in using reef safe glue.

    Votes: 6 4.1%
  • Other.

    Votes: 3 2.1%
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