Is blackout last resort?

[unclejed]

Ok, I have pretty much tried everything for the algae problem. I tried all the algae fixes i.e.

Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer​

API MARINE ALGAEFIX Algae Control​

ReefHD Reef Flux Anti-Fungal Treatment​

Nothing is working. Is a blackout the last resort? If so, how many days and after does the algae return? Let me know all your thoughts. Thanks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APIIW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

 

[Tahoe61]

Well looks like you don't have corals so a complete black out can't hurt, but it's not going to remove the nutrients fueling the algae growth.
What type of tank Biocube?
What type of lighting?
Is it a young tank?
If it is an AIO have you considered a nano drop in UV sterilizer?

 

[Outlaw Corals]

Algae scrubber will have your tank looking new i. Under a month

 

[unclejed]

Well looks like you don't have corals so a complete black out can't hurt, but it's not going to remove the nutrients fueling the algae growth.
What type of tank Biocube?
What type of lighting?
Is it a young tank?
If it is an AIO have you considered a nano drop in UV sterilizer?

Right, no coral. Biocube 32 with the standard lighting. About 6 mos. old but did add the top rock a few weeks back. It was dry live rock. I thought perhaps it started another cycle :confused-face:

 

[Tahoe61]

You could perhaps add more cuc members or different types. You could also run a phosphate reducing media in the back chambers. Or leave the lights off, or significantly reduce the time the lights are on. If it were my tank I would probably start with a phosguard or like products, turn off the lights for a week and then reduce the lighting schedule.

 

[Snoopy 67]

Possibly, or full of PO4.
Take the rock out & spray with peroxide, scrub with a brush, spray again & after 5 minutes put it back in the tank.

 

[rtparty]

Blackout won’t fix anything. That’s green cyano from what I can see. Where is your clean up crew? You need more flow as well

 

[Tahoe61]

I just looked at your other thread addressing the same issue. How is the flow in the tank?

 

[Reefering1]

I don't see any herbivores in there. I would start there

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok, I have pretty much tried everything for the algae problem. I tried all the algae fixes i.e.

Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer​

API MARINE ALGAEFIX Algae Control​

ReefHD Reef Flux Anti-Fungal Treatment​

Nothing is working. Is a blackout the last resort? If so, how many days and after does the algae return? Let me know all your thoughts. Thanks

Amazon product ASIN B0002APIIW

Not last resort but first recourse. I suspect this tank may be at or near a window?
With this, you want to reduce or shorten hours of white light intensity. Best is to pull rocks and scrub with a firm toothbrush and some 3% hydrogen peroxide.
Return to tank, reduce white light intensity and number of hours of white lighting and add some snails such as :
Astrea
cerith
turbo grazer
trochus

A Pencil urchin

8-10 Caribbean blue leg hermits

Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?
What is your phosphate level?

Flux and algae fix are alternatives and often Not solutions

 

[ilyad]

I would also second the few comments in here that mention that there is not enough clean up crew that is visible. Also, new dry rock can be leaching silicates or phosphates that the algae takes hold to. Lastly, I would say that using those meds can disturb the normal bacteria that would compete with the algae.

If it were me, I would stock up on a ton of various sized snails, one or two emerald crabs, dose some seeding bacteria and let it run for a bit. If that doesnt improve it, then I would try the blackout.

Edit: is that a puffer in the last photo? If so, they are notoriously messy eaters and also create a ton of biowaste. That fish wouldnt be a good candidate for a biocube that size even when fully established, but especially when the tank is so young.

 

[unclejed]

Not last resort but first recourse. I suspect this tank may be at or near a window?

Yes, but a North side window. Doesn't get sun per se.

With this, you want to reduce or shorten hours of white light intensity. Best is to pull rocks and scrub with a firm toothbrush and some 3% hydrogen peroxide.

Reluctant to pull all rock (have taken out two larger ones) because of the caves and hiding places the File Fish goes into.

Return to tank, reduce white light intensity and number of hours of white lighting and add some snails such as :
Astrea
cerith
turbo grazer
trochus

A Pencil urchin

8-10 Caribbean blue leg hermits

Clean up crew would be problematic because of the Narrow Lined Puffer and File Fish. My wife just HAD to have a Puffer and so reluctantly I got him. I use RO/DI water.

Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?

What is your phosphate level?

Flux and algae fix are alternatives and often Not solutions

 

[unclejed]

I would also second the few comments in here that mention that there is not enough clean up crew that is visible. Also, new dry rock can be leaching silicates or phosphates that the algae takes hold to. Lastly, I would say that using those meds can disturb the normal bacteria that would compete with the algae.

If it were me, I would stock up on a ton of various sized snails, one or two emerald crabs, dose some seeding bacteria and let it run for a bit. If that doesnt improve it, then I would try the blackout.

Edit: is that a puffer in the last photo? If so, they are notoriously messy eaters and also create a ton of biowaste. That fish wouldnt be a good candidate for a biocube that size even when fully established, but especially when the tank is so young.

Clean up crew would be problematic because of the Narrow Lined Puffer and File Fish. My wife just HAD to have a Puffer and so reluctantly I got him.
Phosphates at 0. All parameters are "perfect."

 

[unclejed]

Yes, but a North side window. Doesn't get sun per se.

Reluctant to pull all rock (have taken out two larger ones) because of the caves and hiding places the File Fish goes into.

Clean up crew would be problematic because of the Narrow Lined Puffer and File Fish. My wife just HAD to have a Puffer and so reluctantly I got him. I use RO/DI water.

Yes, but a North side window. Doesn't get sun per se.

Reluctant to pull all rock (have taken out two larger ones) because of the caves and hiding places the File Fish goes into.

Clean up crew would be problematic because of the Narrow Lined Puffer and File Fish. My wife just HAD to have a Puffer and so reluctantly I got him. I use RO/DI water.

Phosphates at 0. All parameters are "perfect."

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Do I see no powerheads in the tank? A 32 gallon should have more flow than just the return, get some flow in there.

Do you have a skimmer? Messy eating fish like puffers need skimmers on the tanks.

Bottled products are crutches, learn to reef without them.

that is not a bad algae problem, not at all. You should google some images of real algae problem tanks, and at only 6 months its very normal to have some amount of green algae. Don't give up so easily

 

[CHSUB]

FO tank, reduce light, scrub rocks and WC /w manual removal….should be very easy. Forget about chemical fixes and use “elbow” grease.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Yes, but a North side window. Doesn't get sun per se.

Reluctant to pull all rock (have taken out two larger ones) because of the caves and hiding places the File Fish goes into.

Clean up crew would be problematic because of the Narrow Lined Puffer and File Fish. My wife just HAD to have a Puffer and so reluctantly I got him. I use RO/DI water.

Its not the sun but the UV from the window that often causes this. UV will penetrate shades-blinds-curtains.
Other factors are overfeeding, under filtration and lack of maintenance.

 

[mikebusc]

I went through the same thing recently and finally overcame it. I tuned my lights to a reduced white. Only 10%. What finally cleared it up was a double dose of Reef Flux. I tried twice with the normal dose but it didn't help. I scrubbed as much as I could in the tank with a toothbrush. And added a hang over filter temporarily to help clear it out before the double dosage. I have a big clean up crew with urchins as well but they couldn't put a dent in it. My tank was 5 times worse, yours looks clean comparatively. And I also stopped all other additives while doing this procedure also. And some others here may know better, but I don't believe you want phosphates at "0". My nitrates and phosphates were at 0 at one point and I had to add NeoPhos NeoNitrate to add some back. This was again from recommendations from this forum. But I do believe the double dose did it. And it never affected my chaeto in the sump. Best of luck to you.

 

[ilyad]

A lot of people are providing various solutions but you have a much larger problem on your hands... that puffer needs to be housed in a minimum a 125 gallon tank. Even as a small juvenile as it is now, its far outgrown the biocube already. Doesnt matter what you try and do, but that much biomass, and not having any clean up crew, you're looking at a painful experience.

That all being said, doesnt even take into account the terrible home conditions for the puffer. In such a small tank you're going to be looking at stunted growth of the puffer, stress, and aggression when it cant find its own territory with other fish in that small space. Ultimately, that fish will suffer and die much earlier than its life expectancy.

I understand the need to buy fish and other critters that are a "must have" but you either need to provide adequate conditions of them, or limit your must haves to those that can live happily in what set up you have.

 

[unclejed]

You could perhaps add more cuc members or different types. You could also run a phosphate reducing media in the back chambers. Or leave the lights off, or significantly reduce the time the lights are on. If it were my tank I would probably start with a phosguard or like products, turn off the lights for a week and then reduce the lighting schedule.

I already am running Phosguard in the back chamberr. I am now going to add this nifty UV sterilizer designed for AIO biocubes.