Is this the right UV for me?

[Auqaman]

Hi,
I've been reading all the text and watching all the videos about UV sterilizers and honestly I think this is the most stressful decision I've had to make in this hobby. I don't want to buy something that will end up being useless. I have a Red Sea Reefer 250 (65g) tank and want to purchase a UV Sterilizer for the purpose of algae control (dinos) and water clarity (I'm relying on my QT to solve any disease issues that might arise).
I plan on buying a separate pump that will run beside the return pump in the same chamber in the sump. Then I'll plumb in lines that will then take the water from the sterilizer and route in directly to the DT. The pump and UV sterilizer are as follows;

UV Sterilizer - Aqua UV Advantage UV Sterilizer Barb x Barb - 15 Watt. (Salt Water Sterilizer to 75 gals / Flowrate - 233 gph for 90,000 µw/cm2)

Pump - Eheim compactON 1000 Adjustable Water Pump (105 to 260 GPH). I'd have the pump running at max flow through the sterilizer then throttle it back to achieve a flow rate of 233gph to match the manufacturers recommendation

Does this seem like a logical set up? Or would I need a more powerful sterilizer?
Thanks for the help

 

[Spare time]

Not all dinos are affected by UV, and there is no reason to assume you would get dinos unless you have a major biofilter disturbance or you have way too little nitrate and phosphate

 

[Auqaman]

Not all dinos are affected by UV, and there is no reason to assume you would get dinos unless you have a major biofilter disturbance or you have way too little nitrate and phosphate

The outbreak I recently had is the kind that would be reduced with a uv. I’m sure they’ll be back at some point

 

[Spare time]

The outbreak I recently had is the kind that would be reduced with a uv. I’m sure they’ll be back at some point

Do you know what the cause was?

 

[Auqaman]

Came to the conclusion it’s because the phosphates and nitrate bottomed out. Water clarity is another reason for getting the uv

 

[Spare time]

Came to the conclusion it’s because the phosphates and nitrate bottomed out. Water clarity is another reason for getting the uv

Ah well it wouldn't hurt to have a UV in most cases. You might want to try out a ROX 0.8 carbon reactor or maybe some aquachar (just found out about this stuff and it looks neat).

 

[Spare time]

I found this chart of aqua UV which says that your setup would be pretty strong. The 15w is up to 75g and 233gph would be the highest end of sterilization on this. I saw on another thread that some (dwest was the user) recommend 1-3 system volume per an hour. You would be doing a little over 3 turnovers an hour so based off of that you should be fine

 

[Auqaman]

I found this chart of aqua UV which says that your setup would be pretty strong. The 15w is up to 75g and 233gph would be the highest end of sterilization on this. I saw on another thread that some (dwest was the user) recommend 1-3 system volume per an hour. You would be doing a little over 3 turnovers an hour so based off of that you should be fine

sweet thanks. I never considered 233gph is a max flow rate. So theoretically, if I bumped it down to say 150gph (2 times system per hour), contact time would be increased and the uv would be more effective?

 

[piranhaman00]

All dinos are killed by UV, its just some dont readily enter water column. UV and turkey bastor rocks is the best treatment for any dinos.

 

[piranhaman00]

sweet thanks. I never considered 233gph is a max flow rate. So theoretically, if I bumped it down to say 150gph (2 times system per hour), contact time would be increased and the uv would be more effective?

UV sterilizers are used primarily for two things clarifying and sterilizing. Clarifying turns the tank over many times (10x) at a low UV dosage, to kill as many free floating bacteria ect it can, thus making the water crystal clear. Sterilizing turns the tank over slowly (the 1-3x mentioned above) with a large dose of UV, this will kill free floating protozoa (crpyto/ich). The turnover rates differ because bacteria/algae multiply quickly where as the protozoa are slow (fast vs slow turn over). The UV dosage is dependent on what is needed to mutate the DNA to adequately "kill" your target.

You want clarity, you dont want to turn the gph down, you want to turn it up. you should shoot for 30,000uw/cm3 , and turn the tank over more times/hour to destroy as many as possible. Blow rocks off and you will be good.

FWIW I have two of the 15watt barb UVs, one a two different 65 gallon systems, its perfect. But I shoot for 200gph to help with any possible protozoa. You can start with it high and if its not working turn the pump down, but I cant say enough, for dinos you have to blow the rocks off, they wont just disappear by adding UV (although one species will You will be happy.

 

[Spare time]

sweet thanks. I never considered 233gph is a max flow rate. So theoretically, if I bumped it down to say 150gph (2 times system per hour), contact time would be increased and the uv would be more effective?

I think 233 is right where you would want it or at least that is my understanding in terms of sterilizing

 

[Auqaman]

UV sterilizers are used primarily for two things clarifying and sterilizing. Clarifying turns the tank over many times (10x) at a low UV dosage, to kill as many free floating bacteria ect it can, thus making the water crystal clear. Sterilizing turns the tank over slowly (the 1-3x mentioned above) with a large dose of UV, this will kill free floating protozoa (crpyto/ich). The turnover rates differ because bacteria/algae multiply quickly where as the protozoa are slow (fast vs slow turn over). The UV dosage is dependent on what is needed to mutate the DNA to adequately "kill" your target.

You want clarity, you dont want to turn the gph down, you want to turn it up. you should shoot for 30,000uw/cm3 , and turn the tank over more times/hour to destroy as many as possible. Blow rocks off and you will be good.

FWIW I have two of the 15watt barb UVs, one a two different 65 gallon systems, its perfect. But I shoot for 200gph to help with any possible protozoa. You can start with it high and if its not working turn the pump down, but I cant say enough, for dinos you have to blow the rocks off, they wont just disappear by adding UV (although one species will You will be happy.

That's what I couldn't wrap my head around.
Algea/ clarity = high water turn over rates with lower UV
disease control = Low turn over rates with higher UV

So since I'm using it for algea/clarity control, I could use a higher pump output and dial it down as needed. I was really hoping to get 660gph pump for the UV and use it as a back up should my return pump fail.

 

[Blue Spot Octopus]

All dinos are killed by UV, its just some dont readily enter water column. UV and turkey bastor rocks is the best treatment for any dinos.

Do you have your pump in the DT? If so what pump do you run?

 

[Auqaman]

Do you have your pump in the DT? If so what pump do you run?

My main return pump is a Sicce Syncra 3.5 high pressure adjustable water pump - 660gph. It would be nice to buy another one for the UV, so I could use it as a back up, but I think the flow would be too high

 

[piranhaman00]

That's what I couldn't wrap my head around.
Algea/ clarity = high water turn over rates with lower UV
disease control = Low turn over rates with higher UV

So since I'm using it for algea/clarity control, I could use a higher pump output and dial it down as needed. I was really hoping to get 660gph pump for the UV and use it as a back up should my return pump fail.

My main return pump is a Sicce Syncra 3.5 high pressure adjustable water pump - 660gph. It would be nice to buy another one for the UV, so I could use it as a back up, but I think the flow would be too high

After head loss you will be perfect Flow will not be too high.

 

[Auqaman]

awesome thanks. I'm anticipating a lot of loss because it will be getting installed in a tight spot and will have a lot of 90 degree elbows