Kessil LED vs Halide T5

clover128

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Lumens per watt is totally useless for our application. Even PAR is showing to be semi useless at this point.

Again, I hope jda will chime in since I don't want to misquote the info he has. To sum it up, it shows that MH, T5 and LED have the same output per watt for our usage. Pretty interesting stuff and I hope he sees this

Lumens per watt was mentioned only as it refers to lighting efficiency - defending my point on power consumption. I wasn't saying Lumens = coral growth. I get that PAR is likely not even accurate enough esp after reading some of sanjay's data on the topic.
 

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Lumens per watt was mentioned only as it refers to lighting efficiency - defending my point on power consumption. I wasn't saying Lumens = coral growth. I get that PAR is likely not even accurate enough esp after reading some of sanjay's data on the topic.
But it has zero bearing or use in our application. If we were talking about lighting up a family room, then LED is the clear winner. No argument there. Although, I've had multiple failures already from LEDs in my home. Every light in my house that can be LED is. Therefore, any savings have been negated because the bulbs were expensive when we bought them. Thankfully, those prices have come down substantially.
 

DSC reef

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So you have a "one of" and this means?...............sorry, just a little sarcasm for a monday..
no offense is intended. just curiosity..

Anyways a bit more info would help.. Which tubes and power?

At this point if you want to further your experiment place it back under an LED.. you know how to fix it if it goes south..
The tubes were mentioned along with how many and how long the frag was under different led fixtures. I guess pics and upfront and unbiased data isn't good enough for some?
 

oreo54

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The tubes were mentioned along with how many and how long the frag was under different led fixtures. I guess pics and upfront and unbiased data isn't good enough for some?
I asked for facts not judgements.............
sorry if I missed the tube colors and intensity..
did I miss how long of time?
5 blue plus, 1 actinic, 1 purple plus, 1 coral plus.
didn't see it.

I never assume circumstantial evidence is de-facto proof of anything . Be it LED , T5 or Halide..

It is data, no more no less..
Your tone is implying more bias on your part btw..
I can't argue w/ the facts,nor ignore this statement:
I've never had problems growing coral under LED. I've had beautiful tanks with LED, big colonies, grown nicely.

Yet you seem to want to ignore it....could be the t5's, could be anything..goes against his own past experiences..
It's a curiosity..;)
 

clover128

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But it has zero bearing or use in our application. If we were talking about lighting up a family room, then LED is the clear winner. No argument there. Although, I've had multiple failures already from LEDs in my home. Every light in my house that can be LED is. Therefore, any savings have been negated because the bulbs were expensive when we bought them. Thankfully, those prices have come down substantially.

[emoji849]uncle
 

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I asked for facts not judgements.............
sorry if I missed the tube colors and intensity..
did I miss how long of time?

didn't see it.

I never assume circumstantial evidence is de-facto proof of anything . Be it LED , T5 or Halide..

It is data, no more no less..
Your tone is implying more bias on your part btw..
I can't argue w/ the facts,nor ignore this statement:


Yet you seem to want to ignore it....could be the t5's, could be anything..goes against his own past experiences..
It's a curiosity..;)
Sounds more like an argument which I'm not interested in;)
 
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BoomCorals

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So you have a "one of" and this means?...............sorry, just a little sarcasm for a monday..
no offense is intended. just curiosity..

Anyways a bit more info would help.. Which tubes and power?

At this point if you want to further your experiment place it back under an LED.. you know how to fix it if it goes south..
Not sure I get what you mean with the "one of"?

As for which tubes and power, are you referring to my ATI setup? It has been discussed a few times even on this page. :)
 
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I asked for facts not judgements.............
sorry if I missed the tube colors and intensity..
did I miss how long of time?

didn't see it.

I never assume circumstantial evidence is de-facto proof of anything . Be it LED , T5 or Halide..

It is data, no more no less..
Your tone is implying more bias on your part btw..
I can't argue w/ the facts,nor ignore this statement:


Yet you seem to want to ignore it....could be the t5's, could be anything..goes against his own past experiences..
It's a curiosity..;)
The only thing that has changed is the lighting. I'll happily put the frag back under LED for the name of science. :)
 

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Not sure I get what you mean with the "one of"?

As for which tubes and power, are you referring to my ATI setup? It has been discussed a few times even on this page. :)
If you do switch your last LED tank to T5, is it connected to the same water?

If so, go with Giesemann bulbs in an ATI fixture and run that experiment. Some serious acro peeps swear that Gmann bulbs are better and I'm inclined to switch all my ATI bulbs for Gmann next year when it's time.
 
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If you do switch your last LED tank to T5, is it connected to the same water?

If so, go with Giesemann bulbs in an ATI fixture and run that experiment. Some serious acro peeps swear that Gmann bulbs are better and I'm inclined to switch all my ATI bulbs for Gmann next year when it's time.
Yes, each of the main 3 frag tanks I have been referring to in this experiment are all connected to the same water/sump/eachother. So there is no difference between the 3 except the lighting. They all have the same powerheads, running the same program, on the same intensity and schedule. (Gyre XF230s) No natural light gets to these tanks at all, so it's just tank lighting and room lights when I go in/out. Central sump, central ATS, central dosing pumps, automatic water change system, etc and so on.
 

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Yes, each of the main 3 frag tanks I have been referring to in this experiment are all connected to the same water/sump/eachother. So there is no difference between the 3 except the lighting. They all have the same powerheads, running the same program, on the same intensity and schedule. (Gyre XF230s) No natural light gets to these tanks at all, so it's just tank lighting and room lights when I go in/out. Central sump, central ATS, central dosing pumps, automatic water change system, etc and so on.
Then it would be a great experiment to try IMO. Same ATI fixture but just different bulbs. You should be able to get spectrum close enough. At least as close as we can using different brands
 

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The only thing that has changed is the lighting. I'll happily put the frag back under LED for the name of science. :)
Thank you...

err.. what color does it look like under normal daylight?

Since I have yet to see any proof of "magic photons" almost everything has to to w/ spectrum components and/or intensity..
Though "stroboscopic" effects of multi-colored LED emitters has some possibilities to add another complication..

BTW: did you measure the PAR at the frag spot under each of those lights?

ati-bulbs-chart-1_2.jpg
 
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madweazl

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Thank you...

err.. what color does it look like under normal daylight?

Since I have yet to see any proof of "magic photons" almost everything has to to w/ spectrum components and/or intensity..
Though "stroboscopic" effects of multi-colored LED emitters has some possibilities to add another complication..

BTW: did you measure the PAR at the frag spot under each of those lights?

What is normal daylight?
 

oreo54

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Or the refugium, or myriad other sources but almost never a display tank. What's the point?

curiosity...how much is real pigment.. how much is "forced"..guess even that is arguable.. ;)

my guess for the effect.. The True actinic which is lacking in almost all the mentioned LEds..at least in quantity..
composes 1/8 of the output of the T5's..

Use an Orphek V4.. Run ch 3 and 2 (or 4) heavy...
 
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curiosity...

my guess for the effect.. The True actinic which is lacking in almost all the mentioned LEds..at least in quantity..
composes 1/8 of the output of the T5's..
How is true actinic missing from leds? I run 460nm blue + and no "true actinic" and my corals haven't changed color from the years I ran them.
 

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curiosity...

my guess for the effect.. The True actinic which is lacking in almost all the mentioned LEds..at least in quantity..
composes 1/8 of the output of the T5's..
Actinic is typically 420nm which makes up the vast majority of LED and T5 sources; I'd guess over 70% of the total spectrum from these light sources fall into the 420-460nm range.

Two examples but just about all of them are recreating something very similar.

36541690760_6df7a29513_h.jpg


Orphek under similar conditions FWIW

38549911271_c1c5837abd_b.jpg
 
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oreo54

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Peaks at 420 approx..
ati_trueactinic_chart_1__3.jpg


LED's main peak is approx 30nm to the right..

Orphek-Atlantik-V4-Spektrum-Kanal-3.jpg


someone w/ a spectrophotometer can put real #'s to this..
As I said my guess....
 
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