KLIR DI-4 FITMENT

[Theducatiman]

Since these have been on sale and I have had good luck with the 7" version in my WB, has anyone used the 4" for an AIO system? I have a JBJ Flat Rimless Flat Panel that uses 4" filter socks. I think this would be a good upgrade if it'll fit correctly.


Thanks Brandon

 

[Ron Reefman]

bump

 

[brunera]

Following.
I just purchased the Klir 4" for my IM Nuvo Fusion 40 AIO. It fits well in the back side compartment, replacing the filter sock. However, I'm trying to figure out how to get some kind of insert or seal around the Klir, below the overflow, that will allow the water to rise instead of flowing around the gap as the fleece gets clogged. I probably will also need to mount the sensor in a different location as the divider between the first and second compartment is a little below the sensor. I'm thinking something 3D printed or some kind of rubber "skirt" that I can glue either onto the Klir or onto the sides of the compartment, allowing the Klir to slide out easily but maintaining a seal when in the compartment. I know this all sounds like a pain for something that's supposed to be plug n play, but I'm completely tired of replacing filter socks and the Klir seems a good design in concept. Doesn't hurt that it's on sale, too. Maybe there's some good DIYers out their with some ideas?

 

[Theducatiman]

Would love to see a picture of your setup so far.

 

[GK3]

Following.
I just purchased the Klir 4" for my IM Nuvo Fusion 40 AIO. It fits well in the back side compartment, replacing the filter sock. However, I'm trying to figure out how to get some kind of insert or seal around the Klir, below the overflow, that will allow the water to rise instead of flowing around the gap as the fleece gets clogged. I probably will also need to mount the sensor in a different location as the divider between the first and second compartment is a little below the sensor. I'm thinking something 3D printed or some kind of rubber "skirt" that I can glue either onto the Klir or onto the sides of the compartment, allowing the Klir to slide out easily but maintaining a seal when in the compartment. I know this all sounds like a pain for something that's supposed to be plug n play, but I'm completely tired of replacing filter socks and the Klir seems a good design in concept. Doesn't hurt that it's on sale, too. Maybe there's some good DIYers out their with some ideas?

Did you ever get this figured out? Can you share a picture of the filter in your overflow? I am looking at doing this and if you look at my build thread I 3D print and do all things DIY. So I maybe able to help out.

 

[brunera]

Hi all!

Sorry for the delay! I think I've got the Klir DI-4 working pretty well in the back of my IM 40 for a few weeks now. Let's see if I can explain what I've done and I'll post some pictures.

1) The only modification I had to make to the tank is to gently pried off the small plastic lip that is under the overflow opening in the back compartment so that the Klir would fit and sit closer to the overflow wall. If you're careful, you can save that piece and reinstall it later if you decide not to use the Klir anymore.

2) I happen to have some remnants of a 24" x 48" sheet of Optix Acrylic (but any thin sheet of plastic should work) that I purchased from Home Depot for another project. I cut a rectangular piece to just barely fit horizontally in the compartment behind the overflow. Unfortunately, I forgot to get a picture of the one that is installed and working now. Here is a picture of my first attempt that wasn't centered very well and broke. The purpose of this piece is to fit snuggly below the level of the overflow so that as the filter gets dirty, the water level rises.

3) Once I got the outer size correct, I removed the round filter sock adapter from the Klir and used the inner opening of the adapter as a template for cutting the opening in the acrylic. I then carefully carved out the center of the acrylic piece with my Dremel so that it would fit snuggly around the Klir and replaced the round filter sock adapter with the new rectangular version I made.

Make sure you pay attention the orientation so that the hole for the screw is on the correct side and the water flows into the Klir from the right direction. For me, this was with the roller motor facing the back. Also note, the sensor doesn't fit if installed where it is suppose to go on the Klir. Leave the sensor uninstalled. You should now be able to carefully push the Klir with the new rectangular adapter down into the space behind the overflow. You could use an aquarium safe silicone sealant around the edges for an even better seal, but I haven't found a need to do that yet. In fact, I achieved such a nice, tight fit that I will probably need to break the acrylic piece I made if I ever need to completely remove the Klir.

4) At this point, if you have a pretty good seal around the acrylic piece, you could just eyeball when the water level around the Klir seems to rise and dip the sensor briefly in the tank water to move the filter roll manually. This worked pretty well for a while until I found a pattern for a 3D printed sensor holder that I thought might work.

5) I found a couple of 3D printer patterns on Thingiverse for sensor holders and hooks and merged them together on Tinkercad.com to make these:

I had to print out several trial versions until I got the length of the holder and the depth of the notch just right. The sensor holder hangs just next to the Klir (inner side) and allows the sensor to sit just below the edge of the inner wall.

The nice thing about having this placement and having it be easily removable is that when I have the return pump turned off for some reason, and the back compartments fill with water, the sensor doesn't cause the roll to continually move and waste filter paper. I just lift the sensor temporarily out of it's location and replace it easily when I'm done.

6) Once I found the correct depth for the sensor, I then adjusted the depth of the ATO sensor. If I left it higher in it's previous location, then any time the Klir compartment started to fill, the ATO would add water. And as soon as the Klir filter paper moved, the water level would rise significantly, causing too much fluctuation in the water level. Placing the ATO sensor lower decreases the fluctuations of water level caused by the Klir and prevents the ATO to inadvertently add too much water. In this image, the white wire is leading to the ATO sensor in the center back compartment

The top down image below shows the entire back compartments of my IM 40. From top to bottom, the first compartment has the tubing from the ATO leading into a filter sock, next compartment holds the skimmer, middle compartment with ATO sensor, tank heater, and return pump, next compartment with a lonely mangrove seedling, and a small reactor with a layer of Zeovit and a layer of RowaPhos (my ammonia and nitrite are almost 0, but phosphate and nitrate levels are still a battle, thus trying out the Klir), and the last compartment with the Klir and sensor.

Some thoughts:

So far, I'm very happy with this system as it cuts out half of my filter sock cleaning since I used to replace two filter socks twice a week, now just one. And I HATE cleaning filter socks, but they are so far the best for my system and trying to get the nitrate down.

The Klir seems to move the paper a perfect amount, just a couple of centimeters each time, and it doesn't seem too excessive how often it moves, but I haven't timed it yet. Like I said at the beginning, I've had this running at least 3 weeks and haven't run through the first roll of filter paper yet. I'll try to pay more attention and post how long a roll lasts with this set up. I do have a heavy bioload with lots of fish and I'm a generous feeder so others with lighter load may not go through the roll as fast as I do.

The aesthetic isn't great, but not too bad. If things continue to run smoothly, I might even consider installing another one on the other side and completely get rid of filter socks.

I'd love to hear thoughts and ideas from everyone. I love these projects that require me to think outside of the box and "jerry rig" something together. Especially when it works!!

 

[jayl65]

How has this been going? I have a Nuvo 40 that I’m interested in adding one to. I have a tall canopy so the aesthetics aren’t a concern. Just wondering how effective it’s been and if you ever decided to run two of them?