Klir Filter Review.

Rob.bucek

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I just put a DI-7 on my waterbox 220.6 (roughly 210 total gallons). I did have to cut the turnover into my sump down as the DI-7 takes a max of ~1800 GPH. If you wanted to run more though your sump I suppose you could add a second DI-7 which would allow you to run ~3600 gph.

I put mine in last week and have had no issues. I did get the old motor with mine however I emailed coralvue CS and the promptly sent a new motor. I will say it is so nice not having to change the filter socks every2-3 days
hey, that's great and helpful information, thanks!! What would you estimate your turnover to be? I'm just getting everything laid out and collected here. My last tank was only 40 breeder so this is a huge jump for me. Looking to get some decent turnover for a mixed LPS / SPS. I would consider two if needed. I've got a MM 3000 gph overflow spec'd and two return pumps (haven't chosen yet but will size them accordingly).
 
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Dsantamaria29

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hey, that's great and helpful information, thanks!! What would you estimate your turnover to be? I'm just getting everything laid out and collected here. My last tank was only 40 breeder so this is a huge jump for me. Looking to get some decent turnover for a mixed LPS / SPS. I would consider two if needed. I've got a MM 3000 gph overflow spec'd and two return pumps (haven't chosen yet but will size them accordingly).
Id say mines probably at the 1600-1800 mark running through the sump so 7-11x.
 

wmo168

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Make sure you ask for the new blue controller. The new one makes beeping sound and will stop the roller if it run for more then 20 second so it wont burn out the roll if issue occurs
 

pecan2phat

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I only run approx 800 gph through my sump and I find the specs for the DI-4 over rated. I needed to add a 2nd slave unit to keep the fleece from turning often, that or turn down the flow to less then 600 gph.
 
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I just put a DI-7 on my waterbox 220.6 (roughly 210 total gallons). I did have to cut the turnover into my sump down as the DI-7 takes a max of ~1800 GPH. If you wanted to run more though your sump I suppose you could add a second DI-7 which would allow you to run ~3600 gph.

I put mine in last week and have had no issues. I did get the old motor with mine however I emailed coralvue CS and the promptly sent a new motor. I will say it is so nice not having to change the filter socks every2-3 days
About running two, since the Waterbox sump has its sock holders setup differently than other sumps. I don’t think adding a second DI-7 would change anything. Unlike other sumps where water from the intake chamber overflows onto a plate with two holes cut into it, ours goes from the intake, through the first sock hole, then a baffel section and then the second sock holder. I’d imagine that putting a second one would actually reduce the max flow further. Essentially difference of in series vs in parallel. Thoughts?

I ask as I’ve fiddled with my KLIR-4 on my Waterbox 130.4 and only ever got it to work in the second sock chamber and even then it was temperamental, especially when I clean the glass or baste the rock work. I’ve recently gone back to running just a single mesh sock in the second chamber and I’ve noticed that I get absolutely zero detritus build up while running a sock. I’m thinking of changing things up and running the mesh (225 micron) sock in the first and my KLIR-4 in the second. This will ensure I don’t get any detritus build up from by passing the KLIR and take some of the pressure off of the KLIR filter. Makes it more of a polisher. Doesn’t help with the maintenance aspect having to change socks, but I’m already doing that so nothing to lose. Maybe the combo will add a day or two onto my sock changes. With the mesh sock I just pull it and rinse it in the kitchen sink with a sprayer. Takes many a minute. I’ve been using the same sock for a few months. Its starting to turn a little more brown even after rinsing. Might bleach it or throw it in the wash. Might even just toss as they aren’t super expensive if it lasts 2-3 months.

Anyways just some thoughts. Really like my Klir, just haven’t really found the perfect way of making them run in a Waterbox. Been considering getting a new sump to accommodate an algae scrubber and having two parallel socks will be a must :)
 

Dsantamaria29

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About running two, since the Waterbox sump has its sock holders setup differently than other sumps. I don’t think adding a second DI-7 would change anything. Unlike other sumps where water from the intake chamber overflows onto a plate with two holes cut into it, ours goes from the intake, through the first sock hole, then a baffel section and then the second sock holder. I’d imagine that putting a second one would actually reduce the max flow further. Essentially difference of in series vs in parallel. Thoughts?

I ask as I’ve fiddled with my KLIR-4 on my Waterbox 130.4 and only ever got it to work in the second sock chamber and even then it was temperamental, especially when I clean the glass or baste the rock work. I’ve recently gone back to running just a single mesh sock in the second chamber and I’ve noticed that I get absolutely zero detritus build up while running a sock. I’m thinking of changing things up and running the mesh (225 micron) sock in the first and my KLIR-4 in the second. This will ensure I don’t get any detritus build up from by passing the KLIR and take some of the pressure off of the KLIR filter. Makes it more of a polisher. Doesn’t help with the maintenance aspect having to change socks, but I’m already doing that so nothing to lose. Maybe the combo will add a day or two onto my sock changes. With the mesh sock I just pull it and rinse it in the kitchen sink with a sprayer. Takes many a minute. I’ve been using the same sock for a few months. Its starting to turn a little more brown even after rinsing. Might bleach it or throw it in the wash. Might even just toss as they aren’t super expensive if it lasts 2-3 months.

Anyways just some thoughts. Really like my Klir, just haven’t really found the perfect way of making them run in a Waterbox. Been considering getting a new sump to accommodate an algae scrubber and having two parallel socks will be a must :)
I’ve got mine running in the first sock hole without issues. I’m not sure if the sump differences of the 130 vs the 220 Lead to differing successes, if there is any noticeable difference. As for detritus, I haven’t noticed if there is anymore or less compared to the filter socks. I’ll have to vacuum out the filter sock portion and monitor it to see if it’s any different. When you say it was temperamental when you cleaned the glass and rocks what did you notice?

I did buy the diverter cap so that if I wanted to run it in the second sock hole I could plug the first sock hole which would divert the water over the first baffle into the second. It makes me a little nervous because of the amount of water in the first sock area.

I did initially toy with the idea of cutting out the filter sock section and using the mount or a different brand filter roller however I went with the KLIR because I liked the plug and play aspect and it seemed that coralvue ironed most of the kinks out. I know I've seen some Red Sea tank owners do this, Not sure if that’s something that was on your radar.
 
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I’ve got mine running in the first sock hole without issues. I’m not sure if the sump differences of the 130 vs the 220 Lead to differing successes, if there is any noticeable difference. As for detritus, I haven’t noticed if there is anymore or less compared to the filter socks. I’ll have to vacuum out the filter sock portion and monitor it to see if it’s any different. When you say it was temperamental when you cleaned the glass and rocks what did you notice?

I did buy the diverter cap so that if I wanted to run it in the second sock hole I could plug the first sock hole which would divert the water over the first baffle into the second. It makes me a little nervous because of the amount of water in the first sock area.

I did initially toy with the idea of cutting out the filter sock section and using the mount or a different brand filter roller however I went with the KLIR because I liked the plug and play aspect and it seemed that coralvue ironed most of the kinks out. I know I've seen some Red Sea tank owners do this, Not sure if that’s something that was on your radar.
So the issue I have in running in the first sock holder is the nominal water level. Our sumps have a lip that the water has to go over from the intake chamber to the first sock. Other sumps it is just a flat corner. What this means is that the klir actually sits a bit lower than the water that comes in and reduced the amount of “travel” the water level has to play with for restriction of flow. When I insert a KLIR brand new the nominal water level is fairly close to the sensor (sensor faced away from the intake chamber). That means even the slightest restriction in flow will cause it to advance. I found it would advance too quickly and would barely come out dirty when placed in the first chamber. As for why it works for you, my guess is that either a) you have lower flow vs your 7” hole compared to my flow and a 4” b) the volume of the first sock holder area is much larger or c) the larger diameter hole puts the sensor further away (horizontally) from the lip that the water has to go over, this may help reduce turbulence and lower the nominal water level.

Yah I’m not sure I would divert it over. Not sure what you gain in by passing the first sock. Just let it flow through to the second.

I have seen people do that to fit a clarisea, but like you I wanted something plug and play and want the option to go back to something else which I can’t do if I remove the baffles.

Maybe today I’ll try the Klir again in my second chamber and a mesh sock in the first. I can’t remember if I tried that or not and if it was helpful. If nothing else it’ll get me toying with it again and see if I cant get it to cooperate.
 

Eder

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I have two Di7s in our 230.6 and work flawlessly. I have them daisy chained but use the sensor of the second one. Therefore when the first one clogs it overflows to second one and when that one clogs they both turn. Works like a charm.
 
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I have two Di7s in our 230.6 and work flawlessly. I have them daisy chained but use the sensor of the second one. Therefore when the first one clogs it overflows to second one and when that one clogs they both turn. Works like a charm.
Do you think having two increases the max flow you can put through them thou? Or just extends the life of the floss? The first one is still bearing the brunt of the flow. Do you find that one floss is used more quickly than the other?
 

TX_Punisher

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I have two Di7s in our 230.6 and work flawlessly. I have them daisy chained but use the sensor of the second one. Therefore when the first one clogs it overflows to second one and when that one clogs they both turn. Works like a charm.
How often are you changing rolls?
 

Eder

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One floss is not used more rapidly than the other really because they both turn simultaneously after the sensor of the second unit is activated.

i have increased the flow a bit yes so I think it can handle it.

i change Rolls every 2+ months. Apparently I have very clean water.
 

TX_Punisher

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Still potentially thinking of some sort of roller, though, I hate that it's one more thing to replace.

Are you guys running the filter roller AND a skimmer? Seems like it sure would strip the water running both. ]

Thanks
 
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I reinstalled the klir this past week. Getting a very consistent and dark color on the fleece. You can see the advancements as a pattern. Sections where the brown color goes across the entire sheet width is where the floss was directly on the bottom. Where the sheet has white along the sides is the distance it advanced. Or at least I suspect.

Goes to show just how much gets through a 225 micron mesh sock. I still think having the sock before the Klir is necessary to keep it from wasting fleece when you clean, feed, etc. Also helps keep the skimmer section detritus free. I have to remember to turn off the Klir when I change the sock as it temporarily raises the water level and needlessly advances the roll. I also have my Apex programmed to turn it off during the feed cycle and to keep it off for 5 minutes (just like my skimmer) to give things time to settle back down.

One thing I am trying to figure out a solution to is that it “pressurizes” the second sock chamber after my feeding cycle. My feed button turns off the return pump completely. I have a check valve on my return line. The aquarium drains back down the drain lines a bit. The water level in the sump rises. When the pump comes back on the water level in the second sock chamber stays higher. Normally it is at the same level as the skimmer section. I have to pull the Klir out a bit. It releases the pressure and the water level returns to normal. The same thing happens when I used a sock for what it’s worth.

Anyone else experience that? It’s an easy fix but would like to find a better way to ensure it can vent the pressure on its own.



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goggs29

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So what I did with mine, I have had it running for a day with new style motor and blue controller and I have gotten 2 long run time alarms. It seems the optical sensor is garbage right out of the box so i set up an apex optical sensor in the sock chamber and I have the klir one sitting in costant water as to always be tripped. my code for the apex is If Sensor CLOSED Then ON and If Sensor OPEN Then OFF. so my apex energizes the outlet as soon as the apex optical senses water and kills the circuit when level drops after a 5 second delay to make sure the klir has time to cycle the fleece. Obviously you need an apex setup with a fmm module and a magnetic mount optical sensor
 
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So what I did with mine, I have had it running for a day with new style motor and blue controller and I have gotten 2 long run time alarms. It seems the optical sensor is garbage right out of the box so i set up an apex optical sensor in the sock chamber and I have the klir one sitting in costant water as to always be tripped. my code for the apex is If Sensor CLOSED Then ON and If Sensor OPEN Then OFF. so my apex energizes the outlet as soon as the apex optical senses water and kills the circuit when level drops after a 5 second delay to make sure the klir has time to cycle the fleece. Obviously you need an apex setup with a fmm module and a magnetic mount optical sensor
So I can’t speak to the included sensor quality. I’ve never had an issue, but I have considered what you did which is remote mount the sensor. I feel having a higher sensor might positively affect the cycles of water level in the sock compartment. Would be a nice feature for future generations of the Klir. Have a slot to move the sensor in. If I have trouble with mine again I’ll try and remotely mount the Klir sensor.
 

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