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fishguy242

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Urchins mouth ?
 
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Lasse

Lasse

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God Jul (Merry yule) to all of you around the world!!!!

Peace, love and understanding to you all even if the world more looks like hate, war and misunderstanding for the moment.

Sincerely Lasse
 

fishguy242

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Same to you and yours Lasse... :)
 
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Lasse

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Some photos
250112 hawk.jpg


250112-torch-2.jpg


250112-torch.JPG


250112-lemmon2.jpg


250112-lemmon.jpg


250112-copperband.jpg


Sincerely Lasse
 
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Lasse

Lasse

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One some of my photos - like the upper euphyllia above - you can see red Cyanobacteria mats. But it does not take over the aquarium - for the moment it get lesser and lesser. I have not done anything more than stirr it up now and than.

But if you look closer, I probably have a lot of some cyanobacteria in my aquarium - including those that form mats. If you look closely at the mats under a microscope, they consist of multicellular organisms that grow like rods and that they are connected via a jelly-like mass.

My camera has many tricks - one that I discovered when I was going to take close-ups of a strange organism on the front glass of the aquarium. It turned out that you can activate a multi-frame capture that consists of images with different depths of field, which means that you can get images of organisms in the water column behind the glass.

My water look like this from a distance

clear-water.jpg


clear-water2.jpg

But if you try to take pictures with high magnification and at different distances from the aquarium's front window - the image of the water clarity becomes somewhat completely different

cyano1.jpg


cyano2.jpg


cyano4.jpg


cyano5.jpg
cyano6.jpg


This can be green algae but also some type of filamentous cyanobacteria. I have to take up samples from the mats and see if it is possible to link the sticks above to the mats

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Lasse

Lasse

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3 months ago I was able to introduce a speciement of my must have fish - Fathead/Sunburst anthias (Serranocirrhitus latus). I lost the onw I had before 2 years ago.

Its a shy fish and it has been long time no seen. The last weeks he/she have shown up now and than and I got some photos of Him/Her

250112-fathead1.jpg
250112-fathead2.jpg


250112-fathead3.jpg
250112-fathead4.jpg


250112-fathead5.jpg
250112-fathead6.jpg

Sincerely Lasse


 
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Lasse

Lasse

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@Northern Flicker This is the theoretical spectra I run. its calculated in GHL´s program Light composer and based on the actual LED´s I run and at 100 %. However - because that these fixtures (GHL´s Light Bar 2) have true RGB LED´s - the light looks much more "whitish" than 14800 K.

1736743860545.png



Here is the explanation for the "whitish" look Tthe yellow line - it shows the sensitivity of the human eye - That is - how you perceive the current light mix with your eye.

1736745745983.png



The theoretical light temperature with this equipment is 14870 degree K - but what is the light temperature that you really see with your eye (read brain)? I shout down the blue channels to zero - and surprise, surprise we perceive the temperature of the light to be between 5900 - 6800 K - daylight!

1736745848007.png

The total brightness that our eyes (read brain) see in lumens has decreased by about 11% but the wattage has decreased by almost 55%.

This fixture give you a chance to give your corals a heavy blue load but your eyes see a natural light at around 3-4 meters deep

Normally I set a real white balance on my camera that is based on the real appearance. However, the last pictures of my FatHead Anthias were taken with the camera's own automatic mode because this fish is really shy. I had to set up the camera on a tripod and remotely control it via my mobile phone 3 meters from the aquarium. With remote control, you can't manipulate the white balance in the same way - the pictures therefore have a slightly "yellower" shade compared to reality.

The only post-processing I do is in Photo Shop. I check the sharpness and use the built-in auto color and levels program. I try to make the picture as similar to the real look as possible.

The camera I use is this https://www.olympus-global.com/tech...ts/digital-tough/tg-6/?page=technology_museum

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Lasse

Lasse

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Since a year ago - my PO4 concentrations have skyrocket. I have test some different methods - and nothing seems to help. Lanthanum is still a no-no for me because of all my fishes. I´m looking into different methods and stumble over this - which probably excludes absorbers too :angry-face:


Sincerely Lasse
 
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Lasse

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I got my latest ICP-MS analyse some days ago. As suspected - PO4 was high - very high. Coming actions is firstly what I´m discussing here - but I´m also preparing to use of Lanthanum if I can´t do it with Saliferts Phosphate Eliminator. I have bought a used media reactor that I will convert into dosing/filter unit for Lanthanum.

The tin concentration is steadily decreasing - but from a very high concentration

1737368961777.png


There was also some other results that needs attention when we talk about decreasing their concentrations - Boron, copper and cobalt - not any panic but the trend for Co and Cu is increasing .

1737369833729.png


My Al was rising a bit (use Al based PO4 remover) and this report show how effective GFO is according picking up traces - it means that I will run GFO too.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Lasse

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Are you running carbon to help absorb the heavy metals? If so do you think it has been helpful?
Nope - I will run GFO - according to this study - its very effective - IMO better than active carbon an it will not release much back. Active carbon can release Ba, Co, Mn,MO and Ni.

1737371764656.png


GFO do not release anything and are very effective to adsorb many traces. So effective that you need to be careful and stop when your goal is met.

1737372186005.png

Active carbon also release pollutants

1737372261383.png

GFO did not but decrees som of them

1737372333010.png


This was a lab experiment and its an indication that GFO should be used with caution as permanent solution for PO4 removal but could be an effective tool against some pollutants. However - this is a lab study and there is a lot of good examples of reefs running with GFO.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Lasse

Lasse

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Since a year ago - I have had high PO4 concentrations - I have battled this with using a mainly iron based solution - but this is not strong enough for my aquarium. I have - and are - sceptical to use Lanthanum - but I´m going to do an experiment with that. The backslash with Lanthanum is that if you do not get rid of the flocks direct - they can clog the gills of gill breathing animals. Many people dose directly in the skimmer but I will go another path.

I plan to treat with Lanthanum in bursts and run GFO between treatments. I have rebuilt a reactor to be able to dose Lanthanum directly before the water is pushed into the reactor.

IMG_20250123_181959.jpg
IMG_20250123_182012.jpg


In the first attempt, I filled in some coral sand plus a lot of filter wadding. I ran it yesterday and dosed in 0.5 ml Lanthanum per minute. The concentration was that 1 ml lowered 100 L of water by 0.1 mg/L. The flow through the reactor was about 10 L per minute. I suspect that the dosage per minute was a bit too high - next time I will run 0.1 ml/minute so that everything is guaranteed to flocculate and be filtered out before the water leaves the reactor.

My starting point with Hanna Marin Master ULR was 1.2 mg/L. An hour after dosing - the filter still running - it was 1.0 mg/L.

The idea has been to clean the filter material after each run and replace it with GFO + filter wadding. That's what I did now. Now the reactor is running with GFO since last night.

The original plan was that when my GFO is used up and needs to be replaced, I would fill it up with sand and filter wadding again and run a few hours of Lanthanum treatment before switching to GFO again.

After my brain went to 120% thinking about this, another idea came up. When the GFO is to be replaced, it is quite tight and could actually function as a filter for my lanthanum flocks - to then be replaced completely. Not going the complicated path with empty the reactor - new type of filter media - emptying again - and filling up with GFO again.

@Randy Holmes-Farley @Christoph (or any one else) Do you see any chemical risks with dosing in lanthanum into a reactor filled with phosphate saturated GFO?

Update - 0.5 this morning - I think I took a little to much GFO in the reactor - we will see whats happens

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Hi Lasse

For inspiration.
I use a similar setup, but for a continuous slow removal of PO4.
This is a 1 micron filter in a 10" filter house placed upside down in the sump. This way the water does not run backwards when the pump stop.
The LC are dosed in the intake of the pump, and the outlet of the filter is right in front of the skimmer pump inlet, so that smaller particles are sucked into the skimmer, and hopefully get skimmed off.
The pump starts every 59 each hour and stop 2 min later (at 01) and LC is dosed at every full hour. Then the pump only run 24 times 2 min pr day, so that the filter don't get glogged that fast.

1737796707718.jpeg


1737796648766.jpeg
 
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Lasse

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Hi Lasse

For inspiration.
I use a similar setup, but for a continuous slow removal of PO4.
This is a 1 micron filter in a 10" filter house placed upside down in the sump. This way the water does not run backwards when the pump stop.
The LC are dosed in the intake of the pump, and the outlet of the filter is right in front of the skimmer pump inlet, so that smaller particles are sucked into the skimmer, and hopefully get skimmed off.
The pump starts every 59 each hour and stop 2 min later (at 01) and LC is dosed at every full hour. Then the pump only run 24 times 2 min pr day, so that the filter don't get glogged that fast.

1737796707718.jpeg


1737796648766.jpeg


Thank you so much - it could be an idea in the future but for the moment some of my traces and Al are running a little high - therefore I want to use GFO in order to hit several birds with one stone - or as a great storytaler say " syv fluer med et smæk ":)

Sincerely Lasse
 

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