To get this thread back to track, after so many tangents…
My first post in this thread mentioned Liebig’s Law of the Minimum which states plant growth is limited by the least available nutrient, even when others are in abundance. It is my contention that in
reasonably maintained and fed aquaria that nitrogen and phosphorous are available in quantities sufficient to maintain zooxanthellae and hence coral growth.
I found this definition of ultra-low nutrient system (ULNS) and it is:
Nitrate: 0 – 1 mg/L
Phosphate: <0.03 mg/L
I’ve got a couple of issues with this definition and had to make some assumptions. First is the way these nutrients are reported. Nitrate can be reported as NO3, or as only the nitrogen content (NO3-N). The same is true for phosphate. If we take the definition of these nutrients at face value, the actual phosphorus content is 0.009 mg/L and the nitrogen content is 0.22 mg/L.
The second point is test kits used by most hobbyists. Some do not tell how nutrients are reported (for example, NO3, or just the nitrogen content – NO3-N.) These tests report ‘ballpark numbers. This morning I checked the nitrate in the newly set up 90-gallon tank using a Hach colorimeter and the cadmium reduction method, and found the nitrate as N is 0.7 mg/L (or about 3 mg/L as nitrate, NO3.) I compared this to the results obtained with an internationally known aquarium firm, and found the nitrate (as NO3) to be, at the highest, 0.4 mg/L (and I gave it the benefit of a doubt – it was probably closer to 0.2 mg/L. So, 3 mg/L with the $1,000 instrument v. ~0.4 mg/L with the $10 test kit.
Point 3: I finally found my log book I used in coastal monitoring in Hawaii, and the testing revealed seawater on a natural reef to be nitrate (as NO3-N) at 3.6 mg/L and ortho- (reactive) phosphate as P at 0.16 mg/L. Nitrate is due to a couple of things – 1. weathering of young lava rock (geologically speaking) adds nitrate to rainwater leaching through the porous rock and 2. Leachate from septic tanks/cesspools. The phosphorus is due to septic tanks/cesspools/ lawn and golf course fertilizers. Even with these nutrient levels (checked with an expensive Hach spectrometer), the reefs were healthy with a bare minimum of algae (probably due to grazing by herbivorous fishes) and corals were colorful (I saw an astounding blood red Cyphastrea, purple and vivid green Porites, pink Pocilloporas, and so on.)
Point 4: Liebig’s Law of the Minimum. I content that evidence suggests the majority of hobbyists cannot accurately report nutrients in an aquarium (with the exception of the Hanna Checker for low range phosphorus, which I found to report results very close to those obtained with an expensive lab-grade instrument.) Nitrate is problematic – the cadmium reduction method is the only test recommended for saltwater, and even then chloride at levels in saltwater cause a negative interference (the results are low.) Organic phosphate cannot be tested for by any means I know of by the vast majority of hobbyists (unless you’ve got a block heater, specialized reagents.) Organic phosphorus, in the phosphorus cycle, is converted slowly to phosphate that can be used by plants (ortho-phosphate, or reactive phosphate.) So, nitrate and phosphorus are probably never really limiting (recall the expedition that added just iron to seawater to make phytoplankton bloom?)
Point 5: Low level nutrients lessen
zoox numbers and reveal hidden coloration. Just not true, and you can test for yourself. Colorful proteins are water-soluble, so snip a brown branch off an Acropora that has colorful tips and place it in a clean contained filled with just enough distilled water to cover said branch. It might take as long as overnight for the proteins to migrate out, but usually it is just a matter of minutes. But that’s another story, and I’m off on a tangent again.
So to recap: *Some* very healthy coral ecosystems have high nutrient concentrations. Many, if not most, hobbyists do not have the means to accurately measure nutrients (especially nitrate.) Some hobbyists attempt to control phosphorus through export by algae or chemical means. These will not remove organic phosphorus which is anaerobically converted to reactive phosphate. How do we determine what gets the reactive phosphate first – corals or algae, algae or corals? Feeding will add organic nitrogen and phosphorus to the water. So, some go to great lengths to remove nutrients (which probably can’t be measured correctly) only to add nutrients back to the water. This might make sense to many, but not to me.