Lighting or Parameter issue? AIO 40 breeder tank

[caseytatum44]

Hey all, fairly experienced reefer who got back into it this past year. I downsized from a 110 setup I got from a local guy (stocking it and water/energy costs were too high to justify). So I moved everything to a 40 breeder that I installed a custom AIO to have it be as hands-off as possible. Live rock was removed from the other tank and it's been "alive" for probably 10 months or more at this point.

I added some zoa's hammer/soft coral's from a very reliable local guy but just have not had any growth over last few months (monti frag bleached). One zoa colony has closed up and isn't reopening and the others really don't show any growth. The hammer and others seem to be retracting. My first thought was too much light but I used the photone app and PAR readings seem pretty good (50ish on sandbed- 100-150ish in middle range and higher near water surface. I'm running Smatfarm G6 140 w at 40/70/70/70/10/10 at about 11-12 inches off surface. I have filter socks/skimmer/refugium setup and my paramaters are perfect. Maybe im running it too clean? I'm doing heavy feedings. 2 thermometers keep it around 78.5, salt at 1.26 and ATO keeps it steady.

Anyone have any suggestions or experience with this smatfarm light? Reviews on here and elsewhere seemed good... I have almost no algae build up in the tank except the back.. Urchin and cleanup crew ripped right through anything I had. I do not dose anything just doing 10% water change about once a month or month and half.

Thanks for any advice!

Current tank (taken near sunset)


AIO in back with Filter socks (one just removed to clean, Skimmer, refugium with large chaeto balls)






Previous tanks

 

[Catawba_Valley_Reef]

What do you mean by perfect water params?

What are your no3/po4 levels? Alk?

 

[edsbeaker]

How long ago was the tank transfer?
Parameters would be helpful, nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, calcium. I’m assuming salinity at 1.26 is a typo and it’s actually at 1.026?

What’s the flow like?

 

[caseytatum44]

How long ago was the tank transfer?
Parameters would be helpful, nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, calcium. I’m assuming salinity at 1.26 is a typo and it’s actually at 1.026?

What’s the flow like?

I transferred maybe 3-4 months ago. Calling me out on the parameters may be the culprit! My “perfect” parameters on on phosphates and nitrates are the lowest reading on the api test kit. I guess I’ve been misinformed thinking that was goal… my old tank 10 years ago thrived without me having to look at any params. Looks like I may be running it too clean. I haven’t tested alk recently but I remember that being in the right range. I have a single Jebao scp-wave maker that is way overpowered for the tank but it fits perfectly on one side and really gets a nice flow throughout on the lowest setting. Return pump also there.

I’m thinking on upping my feeding and maybe removing the filter socks to see if I can get phosphate and nitrates up a little?

 

[Catawba_Valley_Reef]

Recommend getting a better test kit for no3/po4.

API is notoriously faulty when it comes to no3.

I am a fan of salifert and they’ve stood the test of time in this hobby.

If you have some extra cash the hanna checkers are an even better option as you are trying to decipher colors on a chart.

 

[edsbeaker]

Nutrients are considered necessary these days. Years ago the goal was to keep them at zero. Nowadays most people run nitrate above 10 and phosphates over.1!!!

Before you change anything, let me start by saying that API tests are very inaccurate, so I bet your results are wrong anyway.

I think your best bet to really figure this out is to invest in some reliable test kits. Brands like Hanna checkers, or Sailfert are popular brands. I use Hanna checkers for Nitrate, Phosphate (the ULR one) and Alkalinity. I like Red Sea pro for calcium, but Sailfert is fine too.

I know that it’s expensive for these kits, but without good test kits you are flying blind.

 

[edsbeaker]

Recommend getting a better test kit for no3/po4.

API is notoriously faulty when it comes to no3.

I am a fan of salifert and they’ve stood the test of time in this hobby.

If you have some extra cash the hanna checkers are an even better option as you are trying to decipher colors on a chart.

We posted at the same time!
Same conclusion means we must be right!!!

 

[caseytatum44]

Thanks guys. The tank and rock are pretty spotless besides the algae on the back wall. So I think it’s safe to say I’m too low but I’ll get some better test kits.

My first tank was a 65 gallon with a reef radiance light. I think I just had a ton of beginners luck and got some great live rock and corals from a friend. It was pretty much hands off besides a small water change every month or two. Coral growth was crazy and I never dosed or had to test anything.