Long time reefer and various spp octopus keeper

[MyFirstCar]

You'd still have to be doing lots of water changes (which sound like a ton of work on your system), but it would at least be cheaper.

 

[elessar333]

Now I'm not quite sure what you're looking for in an additive

I assumed you were using something to try to "bind" or reduce ammonia, and from the link above those products don't work for ammonia like it says on the bottle. I don't know of any product that does.

But maybe you were looking more for like trace elements?

No additives….not needed for strictly Octopus care, and the frequent, major water changes with std salt mixes would preclude need for these, in any case. No, just looking for a detoxifier. Good to know, your info; will save me some $.
Thanks

 

[elessar333]

This might be a dumb idea, but what about taking half of your sump rock into a new tank at 82F, and then water change into that tank, and then take the water from that tank and chill it back into the octopus tank? Basically water change between two tanks, one at high temp to rapidly de-ammonia, and one at octopus temp. Then you can even do a bunch of carbon dosing on the "hot" tank to get rid of nitrate too. That of course requires a second tank (or at lease a big plastic tub), and probably a second skimmer.

Interesting thought. I even considered “pre-heating” the water coming from the tank, going into one of my large biologic filtration units, then re-chilling before return to the main tank. I do employ this technique for preserving temp and not shocking the GPO: I have an adjacent 180g that is also run at 55F, which I put into the GPO tank to replace the water I’m changing.
Thanks!

 

[elessar333]

Do you live near the sea . I changed to NSW 3 years ago and never looked back.
You're temp is 55f so do you use a chiller . Also I keep cold water marine. Go and catch shore crabs at low tide would also lower your bills

Used to, but now live landlocked. I have to run dual chillers (TECO is the best) in order to accommodate the qty of water, as well as serve as a failsafe, in the event one chiller goes down. Also designed a dual feed plumbing system with PVC, with my 2 sump pumps, same reasoning. In fact, most of this tank requires backup systems, because of the specific (researched!) demands of this guy, and experiences with my last 12 or so cephalopods.
Thanks for the suggestions! I have found a couple of folks respond with criticism only, or some with unfounded assumptions about my taking this on without knowledge or preparation aforethought. Your attitude is refreshing.
Can you tell me about your coldwater ventures?

 

[elessar333]

I have no useful input but would love to see a picture of the tank and octopus whenever time permits.

I’ll try to get one out. Appreciate the interest! His TV is now installed.

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

Hello, Ok a couple things... Why are you set at 55 degrees. I know it is a popular temp for zoos and public aquariums. But being from SoCal our water temp may be in the mid fifties only for a couple months, but mostly it is in the low to mid sixties range. I keep my temperate tanks at 63F. If you were to be able to go a bit warmer that could give you a leg up. Secondly I would imagine a good size sand filter would help immensely. Lots of tumbling surface area on that. The other thing you can set up cheaply is a spray tower filled with ceramic media that would have a high gas exchange rate. I wonder how many corals you would have to use to offset the ammonia?

 

[Nano_Man]

Hi have had different types of cold water. Really when I have time I will respond better as above says about temperature around the 60f i keep all my cold water tanks. Good to see someone else got the cold water bug. Good luck going forward. T Speedo is very knowledgeable about cold water set ups as well. I will keep following have you nailed the lid down lol

 

[elessar333]

Hello, Ok a couple things... Why are you set at 55 degrees. I know it is a popular temp for zoos and public aquariums. But being from SoCal our water temp may be in the mid fifties only for a couple months, but mostly it is in the low to mid sixties range. I keep my temperate tanks at 63F. If you were to be able to go a bit warmer that could give you a leg up. Secondly I would imagine a good size sand filter would help immensely. Lots of tumbling surface area on that. The other thing you can set up cheaply is a spray tower filled with ceramic media that would have a high gas exchange rate. I wonder how many corals you would have to use to offset the ammonia?

Thanks for the thoughtful input! The 55 temp is not only what the collector stated he came from, coming from the coast of northernmost CA, but also the temp the ‘pus definitely likes; he seems to get irritated when the temp drops a few degrees, such as when I tried ~63F water from my holding tanks…the few minutes before I filled it up and got the chiller/sump water circulating again. To get the max benefit from my chiller, that is the last step before going into the main tank, so no help with putting bio-balls right before a sprayer. Don’t think it’s a surface area problem: LOTS of bioballs, etc., in the sump, right before the chillers. That’s all in addition to an FX6 and 2 more big bio-surface filters.
I suppose there are 55F corals out there, but octopuses are kinda’ a species-specific tank, and I’m not sure how much denitrifying they would do, in any case.

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

Having a rotating sprayer bar over ceramic media I believe would improve your results. It does not have to be that last step process in fact by raising your temperature before it hit the filter would improve results. Using ceramic media has more surface area than Bio balls, also why I suggested a sand filter. Spray bars over media were superior to the de-nitrification process currently used in todays methods. But fell out of favor when learned for most systems it wasn't needed as much and could do without the salt spray and creep. Alternatively you could try a media filled tube with micro bubbles in an upwelling effect. I believe there is no reason you can not build a system that can handle the load, You just have to design the system to handle the load. Right now I believe your system is a linear one. You may also try to create a branching system that takes part of the water, warms it filters it and chills it down again before returning it to the main system.

 

[elessar333]

Having a rotating sprayer bar over ceramic media I believe would improve your results. It does not have to be that last step process in fact by raising your temperature before it hit the filter would improve results. Using ceramic media has more surface area than Bio balls, also why I suggested a sand filter. Spray bars over media were superior to the de-nitrification process currently used in todays methods. But fell out of favor when learned for most systems it wasn't needed as much and could do without the salt spray and creep. Alternatively you could try a media filled tube with micro bubbles in an upwelling effect. I believe there is no reason you can not build a system that can handle the load, You just have to design the system to handle the load. Right now I believe your system is a linear one. You may also try to create a branching system that takes part of the water, warms it filters it and chills it down again before returning it to the main system.

I am warming up to your reasoning. Don’t have time to self-build such a system….are u aware of such a pre-built system that could handle a~530g load?

 

[elessar333]

Hi have had different types of cold water. Really when I have time I will respond better as above says about temperature around the 60f i keep all my cold water tanks. Good to see someone else got the cold water bug. Good luck going forward. T Speedo is very knowledgeable about cold water set ups as well. I will keep following have you nailed the lid down lol

It’s interesting; all my other ‘puses have been escape concerns, not this, the strongest and biggest by far! He hates ambient temps (kept at 72F). If he tries to pull me in with his suckers, all I have to do is raise his arm barely into the air, and he lets go. Honestly, the 40 lb acrylic 1” sheets on his tank serve as an insulation barrier, only. Good thing! He could easily lift them.
It may have to do with the fact they are not so much for the tidepool thing, as deeper water-only denizens.