Looking for lighting ideas.

[skinz78]

So the new 210g tank came with a MH/CF/LED combo unit and I guestimate it uses about 1300 watts of electricity to run it. It's a nice lighting combo/spectrum but it's too costly to run IMHO.

I have a DIY 6 bulb T5 fixture over my 120g that I'm keeping. I just replaced a few of the bulbs in it and most of them aren't that old to begin with. It has 2 ballasts, one 4 bulb that is overdriven by 15% and a standard 2 bulb. The problem is that the T5's are 4' long and the 210g is 6' long. So what I'm considering doing is using my 4 bulb T5 ballast and then doing 2 5' to 6' long DIY LED strips.

Any suggestions on what I should do and if I do do the DIY LED strips what bulbs etc should I use? What percent of blue and what percent of white bulbs?

 

[Electrobes]

It depends on what you have available or plan on moving to. For instance.. what controller (If you;re using one) are you using?

As an example, I have an Apex. When I got my parts for a DIY LED build from RapidLED, I also got the VDM module for the controller.. to control dimming on the DIY LED.

 

[skinz78]

I have a Reefkeeper light controller.

 

[Electrobes]

Hmm I am not familiar with those.. Do they have modules like the Apex?

 

[skinz78]

Haha I don't know, you mean the 8 plug in thingy? I basically use mine for a light timer, temp probe, and Ph probe.

 

[Ron Reefman]

Skinz, you might want to keep an eye on the OceanRevive sponsor forum.

I believe they will have a new 'Master & Slave' led lighting system in the near future. One Arctic S026 style fixture with a controller (not in the fixture itself) and the ability to run up to 9 or 10 'slave' systems (S026 fixtures with no controller... so less expensive than the 'master'). I'm waiting to see it as I'm thinking about switching from the EverGrow IT2080's that I have now over my 180g DT to some version of this system. A couple of months ago I tried a OR Arctic S026 over my 24g frag tank (replacing an EG D120) and I like it a lot better for a variety of reasons. So I've done 2 more over my 55g local/QT (again replacing EG D120's).

For my 180g DT I'm thinking 3 fixtures toward the front (1 master and 2 slaves) and running them a bit more white and 2 more behind, kind of in between the front 3 (1 master and 1 slave) and running them a bit more blue. These fixtures do a much better job of 'spreading' the light than the EG or RB fixtures because the leds are spread all over the fixture rather than all grouped in the center. I'm hoping to accomplish 3 things:
1) With more white light in the front and more blue in the back, I hope to create a look of more depth to the tank.
2) I'll have a few more leds than I do now (240 vs 198) so more PAR and more flexibility in how much power I use.
3) With the better spread of leds all over the tank I hope to greatly reduce the amount of shadowing under rock & coral overhangs and a look that has a bit less contrast (a common complaint of most led looks).

 

[ezane]

with the reefkeeper you can use the (advance light controller ) or ALC for dimmin you t5s and led.

 

[skinz78]

with the reefkeeper you can use the (advance light controller ) or ALC for dimmin you t5s and led.

Gotta link?

 

[skinz78]

Bump for more ideas!

 

[heatdissipation]

I used steves leds and built my own. Each rail can be adjusted independently. Higher or lower, and each rail is able to bevel towards or away from each other.

I have 214 leds over a seven foot 265 gallon tank, way more than I need, but I have them all controlled by color so I can dim each color independently. I am using a stormx controller for now until I finish the controller I am building. I am very pleased with my setup I have no color banding at all. I can't verify how we'll it grows corals yet, as the tank has nothing in it but live rock and water, but corraline algae is growing like crazy.

 

[KoleTang]

Holy...