Looking for RO/DI wisdom...

[madmazda86]

Hello R2R, I am a very noob noob and would like to seek some help with a second-hand ReefPure 5 stage Essentials+ 50GPD RODI system.

Here is how I have it set up right now:
Upstairs, under a sink, the in line is connected to the tap. It is just a regular sink, not a laundry line. Attached to the tap using a converter that turns an indoor tap thread into an outdoor tap thread. The waste line drains back into the sink. The RODI stage is connected and drains into the sink.

The TDS probe tee connectors are currently attached to my in-line from the tap, and the out-line from the 5th DI stage. The filters, my seller tells me, were last replaced 6 months ago.

So, I am posting because my TDS Out has not reached 0ppm even after running it for an hour. My TDS in is 28ppm. Out obviously creeped in the first little bit of running it and was something like 136ppm. However, with the 5th stage attached, it dropped down to 36ppm and stayed that way, it did not reach 0ppm even after running it for an hour. This means my TDS out is higher than my TDS in.

Some other info:

The pressure gauge is very low, <10psi. This water is from upstairs you see. Because the tank is going to be upstairs. So I wanted to make my water upstairs.
The balance of waste to product is not right. My line out from the 5th stage produces about 100mL in 30 seconds, whereas the waste line takes 100 seconds to produce the same amount of water. I know it's supposed to be the other way around, and a 1:4 ratio of product:waste.

Based on this information, which of the below do I need to buy?
1) Booster pump
2) More DI resin
3) Replacement other things, like membranes or filters (I am not very up on the lingo for this, sorry, I am still learning)

Let me know if there's more information you need. Thank you very much for your help.

 

[Reef Jedi]

Personally, I would replace all filters and add a booster pump to get the pressure up to 60-80 psi for optimization. Also I would add a 3 stage di bed for redundancy. I think these changes would solve a lot of these issues.

From experience i run a dual membrane 7 stage RODI with booster pump.

 

[lapin]

First thing to check : make sure your RO flush valve is closed. This might be the cause of low pressure.
Second thing: test the waste TDS. If it’s lower than the other line then the unit might be plumbed wrong.

 

[Australian_Reef]

I’d replace all the membranes and filters. You don’t know exactly what it’s been through before .. and yeah you’re going to need a booster pump if that’s the pressure you have. 60psi minimum


Agee with above about the plumbing too!

 

[UncommonSense]

The pressure gauge is very low, <10psi. This water is from upstairs you see

Unless your house is on a strange well pump system, the upstairs sink isn’t going to be appreciably lower in water pressure than any other plumbing fixture!

There’s something else going on here…

— Flush valve left open (as stated above)

— defective pressure gauge

— incorrect plumbing

 

[JTP424]

If you got it used, replace all the filters/membranes as stated before. As well as the other ideas of location etc.
Good luck!

 

[Australian_Reef]

Analog pressure values easily get calcifications, mine often drops to zero. A bit of a gentle play with a pin in then intake can solve it if this is the problem.

 

[madmazda86]

First thing to check : make sure your RO flush valve is closed. This might be the cause of low pressure.
Second thing: test the waste TDS. If it’s lower than the other line then the unit might be plumbed wrong.

Ah, now then... If I don't seem to have a flush valve or flow restrictor, maybe that's an issue?

I turned off the water some time ago but the unit is still producing water and it is making 'pressure' noises...

Once it stops making water I can rearrange the tubes to check the waste TDS, and check the pressure gauge.
Some piccies attached.

 

[Australian_Reef]

Ah, now then... If I don't seem to have a flush valve or flow restrictor, maybe that's an issue?

I turned off the water some time ago but the unit is still producing water and it is making 'pressure' noises...

Some piccies attached.

I have the same system. Nor does mine. Try the pin trick. I got that directly from the distributor. If you have >60 then happy days. These really should have a flush to help the membrane but mine works fine.

Can’t quite see in your pictures but. Proper plumping is tap>sediment filter > carbon/ carbons > ro membrane then a split to waste (orange) and one to DI resin and then RODI product (yellow)

If it works I think it’s just the filters need changing. I’d do all to be sure.

 

[mcarroll]

I think you may be missing an ASO valve as well

 

[madmazda86]

I think you may be missing an ASO valve as well

Thank you, this is to make water for a nano tank so I'm not planning to directly link my RODI to an ATO reservoir. I apologise for my lack of knowledge, but I thought this wasn't required if I am supervising the filling of the receptacle?

 

[UncommonSense]

There are in-line flow restrictors for the waste line, which I suspect you have here!

— this style of restrictor is a tiny piece of plastic, with a metered orifice size, stuck into the cut end of the waste water tubing before it’s pushed into the associated fitting on the RO membrane housing!

If the pressure gauge has hard water deposits clogging it, the flow restrictor almost certainly does, too! — this could explain the extremely low waste line flow!

 

[mcarroll]

Thank you, this is to make water for a nano tank so I'm not planning to directly link my RODI to an ATO reservoir. I apologise for my lack of knowledge, but I thought this wasn't required if I am supervising the filling of the receptacle?

If you want a float switch, then you want an ASO, I think.

And if you don't want accidental floods, you DO want a float switch to shut off the unit when you aren't paying attention.

So you probably DO want a float switch and ASO valve even if you didn't know it. They make floats that don't require a bulkhead hole, just clamp on or are held by magnets so hopefully it'll be possible to deploy one.

Tunze does supply a solenoid for the purpose if that would integrate better...does have some considerations needed to make use of it:

 

[madmazda86]

There are in-line flow restrictors for the waste line, which I suspect you have here!

— this style of restrictor is a tiny piece of plastic, with a metered orifice size, stuck into the cut end of the waste water tubing before it’s pushed into the associated fitting on the RO membrane housing!

If the pressure gauge has hard water deposits clogging it, the flow restrictor almost certainly does, too! — this could explain the extremely low waste line flow!

Thank you, but I removed the waste tubing and did not find this item. Nor does it seem to be in my connector either.

 

[UncommonSense]

Thank you, but I removed the waste tubing and did not find this item. Nor does it seem to be in my connector either.

Interesting! There must be a flow restrictor on the waste line somewhere, or the unit wouldn’t even make product water!

— it could be in that elbow fitting in the above photo, or downstream of the disconnected line in the photo… but surely one exits…

— regardless, it looks like it could do with being taken apart and cleaned/filters replaced, so you can search for the waste line restrictor (which is likely extremely clogged) while doing that!

 

[madmazda86]

I have the same system. Nor does mine. Try the pin trick. I got that directly from the distributor. If you have >60 then happy days. These really should have a flush to help the membrane but mine works fine.

Can’t quite see in your pictures but. Proper plumping is tap>sediment filter > carbon/ carbons > ro membrane then a split to waste (orange) and one to DI resin and then RODI product (yellow)

If it works I think it’s just the filters need changing. I’d do all to be sure.

I got a face full of water when I disconnected the line in hose so clearly it's pressurised I have disconnected the pressure gauge and it did indeed seem to be blocked so stay tuned...

I also took the opportunity to take a photo of the reverse side. I think it's plumbed correctly?

 

[UncommonSense]

I think it's plumbed correctly?

Everything on the back plumbing checks out!

 

[madmazda86]

First thing to check : make sure your RO flush valve is closed. This might be the cause of low pressure.
Second thing: test the waste TDS. If it’s lower than the other line then the unit might be plumbed wrong.

My waste TDS line was 3ppm!! More fool me for assuming that the orange/red tube was waste like it is labelled in the manual The 5th stage already had the yellow product line connected with the t-connector for the TDS so I just assumed the yellow tube from the RO was to go to the 5th stage. Omg I can't believe I plugged in the waste tube to the 5th stage Thank goodness I didn't run it for very long.

And my pressure gauge now works!! My water pressure is 60psi. Thank you @Australian_Reef, what a great tip! You all rock

 

[mcarroll]

Boom