Megabite's 180 Reef - Round 2

AC went out this morning at about 5AM. Super hot here in the mid 90’s and a ton of humidity. House started heating up pretty good and so did the tank. Cut lights to 50%, put a fan up top, and some frozen bottles in the sump. Also have a 12,000 btu portable ac that I put in the living area. Way too small, but kept the house no hotter than 83.

All that helped and tank just got to 81. AC tech should be here tomorrow. In the meantime, what I’m doing is keeping things cool enough.

Thought of you instantly @Minifoot77 about when you had your AC issue. Wish me luck.

IMG_0874.png
 
AC went out this morning at about 5AM. Super hot here in the mid 90’s and a ton of humidity. House started heating up pretty good and so did the tank. Cut lights to 50%, put a fan up top, and some frozen bottles in the sump. Also have a 12,000 btu portable ac that I put in the living area. Way too small, but kept the house no hotter than 83.

All that helped and tank just got to 81. AC tech should be here tomorrow. In the meantime, what I’m doing is keeping things cool enough.

Thought of you instantly @Minifoot77 about when you had your AC issue. Wish me luck.
Good luck man I did a conversion on my blower motor at the same time... this is the one I got... https://a.co/d/0hIClxKJ
 
Good luck man I did a conversion on my blower motor at the same time... this is the one I got... https://a.co/d/0hIClxKJ
Thanks man. Blower is good and didn’t freeze up or anything. Outside unit is turning on but the compressor isn’t humming. I was going to throw my gauges on it, but didn’t have 410a Freon anyways. I’m assuming it’s low on charge or a capacitor went out. Just guessing though.

Your experience (that sucked) is really keeping me on my toes. Sorry you’re still dealing with the aftermath.
 
A 5-10 gal WC with cooler water couldn't hurt if needed...
 
Could be start cap, if you have a meter that measures micro farads you could check it. Should have the capacitance and tolerance on the sticker. You can check the compressor windings by stripping the electrical connections from the front and measuring resistance across them. R&S should equal the sum of the ohms measured across the other 2 pairs. Unless it is lock rotor'd, then youd measure amperage. It will be a large number for about a second then the overload will kill it, that or the breaker. Could be the overload too, or any of a large (like 4) number of things. That sucks though man and I'm hoping for an easy fix!
 
Could be start cap, if you have a meter that measures micro farads you could check it. Should have the capacitance and tolerance on the sticker. You can check the compressor windings by stripping the electrical connections from the front and measuring resistance across them. R&S should equal the sum of the ohms measured across the other 2 pairs. Unless it is lock rotor'd, then youd measure amperage. It will be a large number for about a second then the overload will kill it, that or the breaker. Could be the overload too, or any of a large (like 4) number of things. That sucks though man and I'm hoping for an easy fix!
Thanks for the tech insight Zach. Here’s a couple of graphs of current draw in watts just before and after it went out. And the second pic is when I restarted it a few times. It would draw to about 600 watts and kick back down.

IMG_0875.png


IMG_0876.png
 
A 5-10 gal WC with cooler water couldn't hurt if needed...
Thanks for the tip. I have about 20 gallons of NSW prepped in the house, but it’s not much cooler than the tank water. I could always cool that water down with some frozen bottles.
 

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