Mindstream in the house!

MnFish1

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I plan to put mine in my sump once I get it. I think I would still notice values change if my return pumps go out even in the sump.

When I get mine - I plan to put it in the Sump - just because it would go 'best' there. BUT - I also plan to turn off my return pump to see if indeed there is any change (i.e. that would help determine if the return pump was not working). I also considered putting my Apex Temp Probe into the tank itself - so that I have 2 temperature measures - if they are 'different' over a couple hours - I will know if there is a problem.
 

MnFish1

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The difference is small and generally not important to everyday reefers (~2.9% in ordinary natural seawater), but it depends mostly on the borate level and the pH.

Question - if I were to (routinely) - which I don't - use a borate buffer for pH - as some people do - (and from what I hear borate is the go to for most of these products) - if you followed only 'carbonate' alkalinity - and pH could you avoid having an unsafe 'borate' level?
 

Crashjack

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When I get mine - I plan to put it in the Sump - just because it would go 'best' there. BUT - I also plan to turn off my return pump to see if indeed there is any change (i.e. that would help determine if the return pump was not working).
Where in the sump? I can think of a valid reason not to put in each chamber of my sump either due to excess oxygen/CO2, or because it is where i add kalk/Ca reactor effluent. Putting behind my rockwork in my display isn't a big deal, but I would rather have in my sump.

I also considered putting my Apex Temp Probe into the tank itself - so that I have 2 temperature measures - if they are 'different' over a couple hours - I will know if there is a problem.
I do this with my Reef Angel controller and send myself a warning if the variance between the two readings gets over a certain amount. The probe in my tank controls the heaters in the sump and my fans (not light fans), and my temperature varies less than 1.0 deg F in the hottest months. The bottom line is, it works very well at controlling temp and gives me a nice failsafe.
 

MnFish1

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Where in the sump? I can think of a valid reason not to put in each chamber of my sump either due to excess oxygen/CO2, or because it is where i add kalk/Ca reactor effluent. Putting behind my rockwork in my display isn't a big deal, but I would rather have in my sump.


I do this with my Reef Angel controller and send myself a warning if the variance between the two readings gets over a certain amount. The probe in my tank controls the heaters in the sump and my fans (not light fans), and my temperature varies less than 1.0 deg F in the hottest months. The bottom line is, it works very well at controlling temp and gives me a nice failsafe.

I have a redsea - I think ill place it right near the filter socks - but I have to wait to see how 'thick' each side is. That 'might' be one of the highest O2 portions of the tank - since its coming directly from the overflow - But - the trend would still be able to be seen.
 

Crashjack

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I have a redsea - I think ill place it right near the filter socks - but I have to wait to see how 'thick' each side is. That 'might' be one of the highest O2 portions of the tank - since its coming directly from the overflow - But - the trend would still be able to be seen.

Could be high CO2 as well as the air in a house and especially in a cabinet is likely higher than outside air so when you are adding oxygen, you are also likely adding CO2. I’m not sure what all the Mindstream uses to calculate other elements so higher oxygen or CO2 might affect other readings. I would really want to put on the backside of my skimmer chamber, which is opposite the side my slimmer releases water. I figured I could try it and test by running with the skimmer on and off. Obviously if there was much of a difference in readings, I would have to relocate.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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Question - if I were to (routinely) - which I don't - use a borate buffer for pH - as some people do - (and from what I hear borate is the go to for most of these products) - if you followed only 'carbonate' alkalinity - and pH could you avoid having an unsafe 'borate' level?
You could always ensure you have enough carbonate alk. Whether there are actual toxicities from very high borate is a different issue.
 

Bleigh

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hart24601

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Monthly subscription keeps me away. Period.
Yea I don't like that either, but really any test kit is a subscription if you want to keep using it, although the cost varies. Alkatronic, trident, all those need propitiatory (for the most part) reagents so even if it's not called a subscription it really is.
 

MnFish1

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I think you o my have to do that if you want to get the discs every month.

I'm not sure why people object to 'the subscription model'. Several things we use in reefing require monthly - or at least regular re-purchase. Fish food, Salt, other testing reagents. I find the comments about subscriptions to be somewhat wrong - unless the point is that its tying people to one company - vs buying several different alk tests, for example. Either way - if this is the best way to monitor parameters - the subscription model doesnt bother me - any more than buying repeated hanna refills bothers me
 

DaneGer21

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I just don’t want another monthly bill, especially for a hobby. The items to maintain the aquarium is one thing. Someone mentioned other tests or test kits. So far, for pricing, I’ll stick to salifert and randomly checking.
 

hart24601

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I just don’t want another monthly bill, especially for a hobby. The items to maintain the aquarium is one thing. Someone mentioned other tests or test kits. So far, for pricing, I’ll stick to salifert and randomly checking.

For sure that is a great option and what 99.9% of reefers will do! The more alternatives we have in the hobby the better!
 

rushbattle

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I just don’t want another monthly bill, especially for a hobby. The items to maintain the aquarium is one thing. Someone mentioned other tests or test kits. So far, for pricing, I’ll stick to salifert and randomly checking.
Whatever works for you and your budget, and goals for your aquarium, is the logical solution.
 

Bleigh

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Whatever works for you and your budget, and goals for your aquarium, is the logical solution.

Agreed. Manual testing works just fine. If you have the budget to do automated, that’s fine too.
 

doggydoc10

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Sooooo....MS worked perfect for the past 2-3 weeks. I been measuring with Salifert to double check results.
Up until this past week it was spot on
This past week overnight had issues with levels being way lower then previously.
Ended up talking to MS and they told me it was a dirty unit. They told me to go ahead and clean the unit trying to avoid the sensors. I asked for more info since I didn’t want to damage anything without knowing where the sensors are. MS emailed me on Thursday that they will have a “document” for me to follow it in order to clean the unit.
So far no document. Anyone having these issues?
 

JimWelsh

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Sooooo....MS worked perfect for the past 2-3 weeks. I been measuring with Salifert to double check results.
Up until this past week it was spot on
This past week overnight had issues with levels being way lower then previously.
Ended up talking to MS and they told me it was a dirty unit. They told me to go ahead and clean the unit trying to avoid the sensors. I asked for more info since I didn’t want to damage anything without knowing where the sensors are. MS emailed me on Thursday that they will have a “document” for me to follow it in order to clean the unit.
So far no document. Anyone having these issues?
Tagging @Thales
 

Mr4000

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I ordered mine a week ago hopefully this isn't going to be an ongoing issue with so called dirty discs, at least this is the only one i've heard of so far and hopefully the last.
 

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