My 40 gallon recife build

[That Crusso Kid]

I will be honest. I really can never figure out how people keep nutrients below 0.1 on phosphates or below 10 on nitrates. I mean I run GFO, run my skimmer, have a fuge, do automatic water changes, cut back feedings, etc & it just never drops. (lol) I tried carbon dosing, Microbacter 7, etc. I use 0 tds RODI water which I bought a tds meter to check & still nothing.

I mean I do have over stocked tanks (other than the 25 gallon) so that is likely the problem.

Feed more.

 

[TheNative192]

Feed more.

No I’m saying I can’t figure out how to lower my nutrients below that point lol. I mean I’m honestly satisfied with 10-20 nitrates and 0.05 to 0.2 phosphates but getting it locked in or any lower than what I have now just feels impossible lol. More food would have the opposite effect though.

 

[kingranch2003]

Mine refuses to open. It eats if I feed it but it never really opens.

Thoughts?

Mine usually only ope after lights out. It'll open very occasionally during a heavy feeding during the day.

 

[kingranch2003]

I'm assuming too much available food in the water column it just never gets hungry?

Yes and good lighting too. It doesn't open at night at all? I wouldn't worry about it as long as it looks inflated and not receding

 

[kingranch2003]

I have higher nutrients in tank like 15 nitrate 0.15 phosphate. What I do is shut off all flow and then put a little of oyster feast in the water and that makes mine open up right away. Could be just adjusting. John will likely know more.



I am loving it. Now the only problem is now I want another one lol but I also want a tank big enough for a tang so I am saving up for that.... ugh. decisions decisions lol.

Haha I know they are addictive. I love about making a mini scoly island, not using button scolys, but smaller slow growing Aussie scolys. They grow way slower and are typically brighter than the indo scolys do.

2nd the oyster feast. If you put it in the water AFTER the scoly opens, you'll see a very clear reaction

 

[kingranch2003]

that stinks, I'm sorry. :(

Thanks Mike. I sure hated to watch those beautiful fish die. :(

 

[kingranch2003]

I will be honest. I really can never figure out how people keep nutrients below 0.1 on phosphates or below 10 on nitrates. I mean I run GFO, run my skimmer, have a fuge, do automatic water changes, cut back feedings, etc & it just never drops. (lol) I tried carbon dosing, Microbacter 7, etc. I use 0 tds RODI water which I bought a tds meter to check & still nothing.

I mean I do have over stocked tanks (other than the 25 gallon) so that is likely the problem.

I think each tank and every part of them effects things like this... I mean, I have a 40 gallon tank and cant get nitrates above 5. I do water changes, and have way more live rock in my tank than most 40s do, so maybe that's why. P04 is usually .1 no matter how much I try to go lower.

 

[kingranch2003]

No I’m saying I can’t figure out how to lower my nutrients below that point lol. I mean I’m honestly satisfied with 10-20 nitrates and 0.05 to 0.2 phosphates but getting it locked in or any lower than what I have now just feels impossible lol. More food would have the opposite effect though.

IMO, much lower than that and your lps will not look as happy. You could MAYBE do more frequent filter media changes to help lower N03, but where you are should be the sweet spot to make everything in a mixed reef tank happy

 

[tbrown]

Yes and good lighting too. It doesn't open at night at all? I wouldn't worry about it as long as it looks inflated and not receding

Not sure if it opens at night - I tend to sleep at night.

 

[Red_Beard]

I will be honest. I really can never figure out how people keep nutrients below 0.1 on phosphates or below 10 on nitrates. I mean I run GFO, run my skimmer, have a fuge, do automatic water changes, cut back feedings, etc & it just never drops. (lol) I tried carbon dosing, Microbacter 7, etc. I use 0 tds RODI water which I bought a tds meter to check & still nothing.

I mean I do have over stocked tanks (other than the 25 gallon) so that is likely the problem.

More sticks!!! I was thoroughly surprised how much nitrate (and some phosphate) SPS consume once you get enough mass. I have to dose to keep mine above 0.

Well, I'm sad to report that both new wrasse have perished.

The McCosker's never really became active as he hid in the rocks and just eventually passed. The Naoko's wrasse was the real surprise, because appeared so healthy for the first 12 hours, then bedded down one evening and died.

I have no idea why, other than the typical "wrasse don't ship well" response I keep getting. I acclimated these fish as I always do, and as advised by the seller, in order to keep the 8 day guarantee provided. My other fish are perfectly fine and healthy as always.

I have a claim into the company. Ill update here.

I waited forever to source and purchase these two fish.
Thoroughly bummed my friends.... life goes on. Be well today.

Terribly sorry to hear that. Those were really pretty wrasses :(

 

[TheNative192]

More sticks!!! I was thoroughly surprised how much nitrate (and some phosphate) SPS consume once you get enough mass. I have to dose to keep mine above 0.


Terribly sorry to hear that. Those were really pretty wrasses :(

Yeah all my sticks died in like a week. I have no idea why. Everything else looks fantastic. I have around 70x tank size flow, random flow, etc. I did dip them. I also got easier ones too (I think). The par was low on them initially as it is still ramping up so maybe it was just too low light. Not really sure. Maybe I will try some other easier SPS other than Acros

 

[tbrown]

Yeah all my sticks died in like a week. I have no idea why. Everything else looks fantastic. I should have more than enough flow. I did dip them. I also got easier ones too (I think). The par was low on them initially as it is still ramping up so maybe it was just too low light. Not really sure. Maybe I will try some other easier SPS other than Acros

Flow, alk, phosphates. That's what I found to be the key for Acros. Stable alk and phosphates, random but heavy flow.

 

[Red_Beard]

They can be finiky with trace elements too. But not overly so, if you are doing water changes or dosing them at all you should be fine. Like tbrown said though loads of light, stabile alk/phos and solid random flow and they should be happy.

 

[kingranch2003]

More sticks!!! I was thoroughly surprised how much nitrate (and some phosphate) SPS consume once you get enough mass. I have to dose to keep mine above 0.


Terribly sorry to hear that. Those were really pretty wrasses :(

I appreciate it brother. I do feel guilty although Im satisfied that I did everything I could the right way.

Also your advice about the sticks is spot on! I forgot to mention that.

 

[kingranch2003]

Yeah all my sticks died in like a week. I have no idea why. Everything else looks fantastic. I have around 70x tank size flow, random flow, etc. I did dip them. I also got easier ones too (I think). The par was low on them initially as it is still ramping up so maybe it was just too low light. Not really sure. Maybe I will try some other easier SPS other than Acros

Anacropora! These are some of the brightest, fastest growing sps I dealt with. The goldenrod anacropora is by far the best yellow in my tank. And I have a small colony of tropicana anacropora also.

Not my pics

My pics

 

[TheNative192]

Anacropora! These are some of the brightest, fastest growing sps I dealt with. The goldenrod anacropora is by far the best yellow in my tank. And I have a small colony of tropicana anacropora also.

Not my pics

My pics

I may have to get some of those. They seem like they are easier to keep. Do you think I could keep them at like 250 par? I honestly am kinda thinking of lowering the overall par now that the acros are goners to keep it more oriented towards LPS

 

[tbrown]

I may have to get some of those. They seem like they are easier to keep. Do you think I could keep them at like 250 par? I honestly am kinda thinking of lowering the overall par now that the acros are goners to keep it more oriented towards LPS

Yes. Or even Montipora Digitata or Montipora Spongodes...

 

[tbrown]

I may have to get some of those. They seem like they are easier to keep. Do you think I could keep them at like 250 par? I honestly am kinda thinking of lowering the overall par now that the acros are goners to keep it more oriented towards LPS

Slimeball Anacropora, Green Goblin Anacropora, Montipora Spongodes, Tropicana Anacropora, TNT Anacropora, Pink Lemonade Anacropora, Bubblegum Digitata, Tubbs Stellata...

Get several?

 

[TheNative192]

Yes. Or even Montipora Digitata or Montipora Spongodes...

I thought about putting some Montis on the top right island since there is barely any water above that area but I was worried about them taking over or shading out my torch lol. I guess I could always break it if it got too large too.

 

[TheNative192]

Like I am not sure what I can put on that flat section to the top left of the torch (top right section of the main rock) I thought maybe a monti would look good of some kind. I do have one zoas that like crazy par too. I am getting some new random flow generators and nozzle attachments so I can have four outlets so the water is not directed at the rock as well so that should probably help too.